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Old 09-28-2009, 12:06 AM
  #31  
Bryan Watts
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Originally Posted by PedroNole
Unless you are on a completely green track or one with REALLY big decreasing radius corners, there's no way that you should be running your front bar full soft...
Of course that would depend on what size bar he's running and a lot of other things. But agreed that in this situation, a soft front bar is causing more harm than good. With a 50 mm hollow front bar, running full soft might be the answer.

Can't underestimate the importance of controlling roll on these front MacPherson struts. Lowering, while ultimately a good thing, actually increases the tendency towards roll on the front of the car due to the roll center dropping quicker than the COG. It's the opposite of what you're taught.

And as you go lower, you often get into a less optimal portion of the camber curve as well. Lots of spring, lots of bar, and lots of static camber is often the answer to producing grip on a MacPherson strut front suspension.
Old 09-28-2009, 02:29 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Chris M.
I think my toe is 1/16 IN, but I'd have to check to be sure.
Why is it that I know your toe settings and you don't??!!

Chris has zero front toe, and 1/16" rear toe in.

Interesting comments about actually tightnening the front sway to increase grip/reduce oversteer. I only have -1.9 up front after a ton of work... It's pitiful. I absolutely can't believe that people can get anywhere near -3.0 and still be legal.
Old 09-28-2009, 08:47 AM
  #33  
kurt M
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All this talk about ARBs and no one has mentioned increasing spring rate rather than ARB? Just a shade tree hack here but I consider ARBs a tuning device not a control device. Is it not best to control body roll via spring rate? Using the ARBs to compensate for lack of spring rate leads to other complications.

crank the towers in using a strut brace and shave the hood.
Old 09-28-2009, 10:06 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Chris M.
I do have the $13 steering rack spacer kit which is legal.
Isn't that a bump steer kit to help with tie rod angle on a lowered car?
Old 09-28-2009, 10:09 AM
  #35  
Bryan Watts
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Originally Posted by kurt M
All this talk about ARBs and no one has mentioned increasing spring rate rather than ARB? Just a shade tree hack here but I consider ARBs a tuning device not a control device. Is it not best to control body roll via spring rate? Using the ARBs to compensate for lack of spring rate leads to other complications.
Probably because the thread is called "sway bars"?
Old 09-28-2009, 10:16 AM
  #36  
Gary R.
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And that in torsion bar cars you cant increase spring rate (beyond what is on Chris's car) and stay in PCA stock classes..
Old 09-28-2009, 12:23 PM
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Gary,

Why can't he go with a thicker front t-bar? I have heard that 26mm will fit in the A-arms. Thanks for the correction on scrut at the Glen. Aren't rumors great?
Old 09-28-2009, 12:50 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dbryant61
Gary,

Why can't he go with a thicker front t-bar? I have heard that 26mm will fit in the A-arms. Thanks for the correction on scrut at the Glen. Aren't rumors great?
Not sure what fits Don, we mostly run Smart Racing through the body bars up here..
Old 09-28-2009, 01:59 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Bryan Watts
With that little camber in the front, going stiffer on the front bars/springs may actually help with your understeer problem. Actually, I won't even say "may", I'll go ahead and guess that it WILL. You've got to manage the contact patch. If you have too much roll and not enough camber, your grip is going to suck. Going softer to solve the problem is only going to make it worse.

The "stiffer" = more understeer idea that you are taught is based on starting from a near optimal setup on a purpose built race car. You aren't anywhere close to that due to rules, budget, design, etc, etc. Stiffer does not always = less grip. If it did, we would go lower than the factory spring rates rather than much stiffer when going racing.
Thanks for the tips. I will try them out in a few weeks at Road Atlanta.

Originally Posted by Gary R.
Not sure what fits Don, we mostly run Smart Racing through the body bars up here..
Don is talking about 26mm torsion bars. I've heard of 24s, but they weren't available at the time I was doing my suspension. The bigger the better, according to Larry Herman, who will hopefully chime in here at some point, and tell us how soft even the stiffest torsion bars are in terms of actual spring rate. I forget the numbers, but he has them.

Originally Posted by Astroman
Why is it that I know your toe settings and you don't??!!

Chris has zero front toe, and 1/16" rear toe in.

Interesting comments about actually tightnening the front sway to increase grip/reduce oversteer. I only have -1.9 up front after a ton of work... It's pitiful. I absolutely can't believe that people can get anywhere near -3.0 and still be legal.
Thanks buddy. I'm still waiting for the mystery of -3 degrees to be answered....can cranking on the strut brace really make up the difference?


Don- sorry for the hijack.
Old 09-28-2009, 02:06 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Chris M.
Don is talking about 26mm torsion bars. I've heard of 24s, but they weren't available at the time I was doing my suspension. The bigger the better, according to Larry Herman, who will hopefully chime in here at some point, and tell us how soft even the stiffest torsion bars are in terms of actual spring rate. I forget the numbers, but he has them.
Yep, I got all flummoxed up.. I ran 24/33 in my 930 but run 23/31 now.. don't really think I need more spring for this car.
Old 09-28-2009, 10:25 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Chris M.
Don is talking about 26mm torsion bars. I've heard of 24s, but they weren't available at the time I was doing my suspension. The bigger the better, according to Larry Herman, who will hopefully chime in here at some point, and tell us how soft even the stiffest torsion bars are in terms of actual spring rate. I forget the numbers, but he has them.
Chris, IIRC the 23 mm fronts equaled a coil spring rate of about 275 lbs/in and 31 mm rears equaled about 375. I felt that this was fairly close, but have 2 sources for you to check: Pelicanparts Forum and Rennlist Forum. They are not exactly the same, but do confirm that the torsion bar rates are pretty soft as compared to what you can get with coil-overs. Plus you can see yourself how much the torsion bar cars lean as compared to well-sprung C2s.
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:01 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
Chris, IIRC the 23 mm fronts equaled a coil spring rate of about 275 lbs/in and 31 mm rears equaled about 375. I felt that this was fairly close, but have 2 sources for you to check: Pelicanparts Forum and Rennlist Forum. They are not exactly the same, but do confirm that the torsion bar rates are pretty soft as compared to what you can get with coil-overs. Plus you can see yourself how much the torsion bar cars lean as compared to well-sprung C2s.
Thanks Larry.
Old 09-29-2009, 12:25 AM
  #43  
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(Thanks also Wil Ferch)
Old 09-29-2009, 01:02 AM
  #44  
Gary R.
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Call Dan Jacobs if you want to know what to run, or if you know of someones LEGAL cars that have a better record than those prepared by him I would call them.... I'll be the first to admit the only thing limiting my car is ME...



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