mbb993

Appreciate input on this problem. Cross post from 993 forum but second thought might be better here.
Thanks!

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...e-problem.html

d15b7

hi.

on my FWD race cars, i need to vent the CV boots; otherwise, the heat will cause them to expand, and balloon out, and cause a variety of problems.

the quick down and dirty fix is to cut the band on the small end of the CV boot; then take a WD-40 plastic straw, and cut it in half. slide the straw in between the axle shaft and the boot, so that the hot gasses have a path to escape through the straw. re-band the boot lightly, so that you don't crush the straw. (do both boots on each shaft).

i now do this on all my FWD driveshafts, and have not had problems since.

good luck!

todd
ReidSpeed

PS if you repack the joints, use a good high quality synth CV grease. its a yucky job!!!!

Geoffrey

axle grease has been compromized due to exceeding its heat rating and you need to use good racing grease like Neo or Krytox.

bgiere

i repack all of mine with Amsoil 2000 Racing grease...cured mine of leaking for good. I am sure NEO or Krytox would be even better.

Gary R.

Here's a site to get Neo from, may be cheaper elsewhere... http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product

mbb993

Thanks for the info and links. Kinda what I suspected. I will pull them off, inspect and repack or replace as needed. From now on will repack the new ones also. Do any of you follow a regular "repack" schedule for the track car?

Gary R.

Once per year and I have always used Swepco Moly Grease. I buy a tube, push all the grease out on a piece of cardboard, divide it into four segments and each CV gets 1 segment pushed in (after cleaning out the old grease as much as possible).. New gaskets and bolts also..

A930Rocket

Interesting as I've blown another boot on my 930 last weekend. I always use a ziptie on the small end, but I guess it's too tight or the grease that comes with the kit isn't up to par.

Tom W

I'm on a schedule of about every 25 hours to R&R (including when new). Due to my axle geometry and the heat generated the stock grease can last as little as 4-5 hours before the grease and CV start to fail. I (meaning the shop) now use Krytox and some adjustment to axle geometry were made and they are lasting much better. I still keep two spare axles in the trailer though.

APKhaos

Next time, try this:
- grab a squirt tube from a can of WD40 or similar, and cut a 2" section
- place the tube under the small end of the boot, then ziptie everythign in place

The tube acts as a breather. It doesn't vent grease, but it does vent air as the grease gets hot. Works like a charm.

A930Rocket

I'm going to try that. The kits are cheap, but the grease and clean up makes for a nasty job.

bobt993

Not sure on other axles, but the 964/993 already vent via the center opening of the hub end. I just had to do my half shafts and went the extra step to completely remove the grease from the stub end which cannot come apart. You can run a degreaser through the center of the shaft and close the trans end of the shaft. What a PITA to get it all out and start new.

Does anyone have a better way to clean the wheel side?

Geoffrey

Put the axle in a lathe and cut the crimp off. Disassemble the axle, clean it, drill and tap a few holes to screw the boot cover back on to the axle, install Krytox or Neo grease and reassemble.

bobt993

Thanks, as expected you have a perfect solution.

mbb993

I was just looking at this situation getting ready to pull the axles off. Did a bunch of searches on it. I was wondering how to get the grease out of the outside (stub) end. From what others have posted elsewhere the axle is friction welded to the outside CV joint and won't come apart. Most importantly I was concerned that I would only be able to re-pack that CV from only one side.

Since I have not yet pulled and looked closely at the assembly I'm not sure of what you mean by the "crimp" ? NEO on order. That Krytox is too near the price of new axles!! lol