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CV axle problem?

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Old 07-12-2009, 07:52 AM
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Geoffrey
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https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...eferrerid=4234

Here is how to do it. Pictures are on page 2 and 3. Works on all 964/993/996 axles.
Old 07-12-2009, 09:42 AM
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mbb993
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Originally Posted by Geoffrey
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...eferrerid=4234

Here is how to do it. Pictures are on page 2 and 3. Works on all 964/993/996 axles.
Thanks Geoffrey. The pics are great. When I get the axle off it will all make more sense.

Unfortunately, I don't have a machine shop here but may have access to a lathe. I think the drilling holes consistently in the same location will be more challenging for me. What does the tool you refer to for drilling the holes look like?

A few questions for you:
1. Do you get any grease leaking out after you do this mod or does the o-ring still work to prevent that?

2. Are you able to remove the outside CV joint and replace it? I thought it was welded on?

3. How do I raise my motor to improve the axle angle? From what I read this might improve axle longevity?



Thanks again for all the help.
Old 07-12-2009, 11:04 AM
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mark kibort
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Ive had real bad luck with Amsoil racing grease on my front wheel bearings and immediately went back to a moly based grease.. the amsoil would just turn to liquid and run out of the bearings.
maybe the temps are much less in the CV area, but something to consider.

mk


Originally Posted by bgiere
i repack all of mine with Amsoil 2000 Racing grease...cured mine of leaking for good. I am sure NEO or Krytox would be even better.
Old 07-12-2009, 01:52 PM
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Geoffrey
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I have a tool I made to locate and drill the holes in the axle and the cover so they are exactly 120 degrees apart and will fit properly in any orientation. Basically the tool is a machined part where one side fits inside the cv joint cover with 3 holes and the other side fits over the CV joint with another 3 holes since you need different sizes for tapping as opposed to the cover where you need the screw to slide through.

No, I don't get grease leaking out when using Krytox or Neo grease. Leaking grease is simply grease that has broken down and is no longer usable

The outer CV joint is a single piece stub axle. So, I buy new axles, take them apart, replace the grease, and reassemble. Sometimes I'll take the new stub axle and inner CV joint and install them on my hollow racing axles, but at some point they'll probably break.

I don't know how to raise the engine to provide better axle angularity. My car simply is not lowered as much as others run so my axle angularity isn't a problem.
Old 07-13-2009, 09:06 AM
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kurt M
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You can use a cut off wheel or Dremel to cut the cover off the CV if you don't have access to a lathe. Take your time and cut almost all the way through but not quite. Cut a side slit then peel up an edge and pull off the crimped portion like opening up an OJ can. Once off you can finish and dress the boot base with a sander,grinder or file. Drill an old boot ring with the boot cut off for use as a easy to make drill template for the CV and other covers. Remove all but a little lip of the edge for fitting the template on the CV and the boot. the retainer bolts do not have to be 120 deg out to 0.0001 just the same for both parts.



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