At what point do you replace your rotors?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
At what point do you replace your rotors?
My current set up is OEM Rotors, Hawk DTC Pads. Prior to using this pad compound I was changing rotors and pads 1 to 1. I'm now on my second set of pads with this same rotor and all feels fine. Being that the OEM rotor have cast holes, I've always been told that the fine cracks are OK so long as they do not run to the edge and/or they are not connected. So my question is; How do you know when to replace your rotors?
#3
Rennlist Member
Dave, I strongly advise you go with slotted, not drilled, rotors for serious track use. Also become familiar with the minimum recommended thickness printed on the rim of each rotor, and borrow or buy a gizmo to measure rotor thickness.
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#4
Nordschleife Master
Wrightwood racing has a nice kit for your car that uses 332x32 slotted rotors and comes with a spacer and longer bolts for your existing caliper. These are slotted AP Racing or slotted Alcon rotors and they last a long time. I'm going on 2 years on my fronts.
#5
Rennlist Member
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#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks.. Couldn't find a website for Wrightwood. But I've looked for slotted that would fit my set-up without going to big reds and everything was $$ Custom.
Looks like I'll throw another set of OEM's on as I have a track day next Friday.
Looks like I'll throw another set of OEM's on as I have a track day next Friday.
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#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
#10
Rennlist Member
#11
Rennlist Member
I have tracked rotors that were worse than this one, but, of course, it depends on how you brake or, to be specific, how little you brake.
#12
Rennlist Member
I think the conventional wisdom is replace when 3 holes connect or if the cracks reach the edge of the disk, Also, I saw a tech sheet that said that if the cracks are more than 7mm long. my rotor cracks are longer and deeper but not as many. Better safe than sorry on the brake hardware, I always say.
#13
Rennlist Member
I am with Mark on this one. I likely would run another day or two on those or at least a race and a practice session. Keep them for spares if your going to replace them.
#14
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
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CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
#15
Dave:
Good advice about the spiderweb cracks from other folks. Replace 'em.
For the front, after about 18 -20 DE days last year (VIR, RRR, & CMP) I've replaced OEM rotors twice and PFC 97s twice too. Rear rotors and pads once.
By the way I'd really like to know how to get in touch with Wrightwood. I'm guessing those are custom hats and floating rotors.
Ed
Good advice about the spiderweb cracks from other folks. Replace 'em.
For the front, after about 18 -20 DE days last year (VIR, RRR, & CMP) I've replaced OEM rotors twice and PFC 97s twice too. Rear rotors and pads once.
By the way I'd really like to know how to get in touch with Wrightwood. I'm guessing those are custom hats and floating rotors.
Ed