At what point do you replace your rotors?
4 Attachment(s)
My current set up is OEM Rotors, Hawk DTC Pads. Prior to using this pad compound I was changing rotors and pads 1 to 1. I'm now on my second set of pads with this same rotor and all feels fine. Being that the OEM rotor have cast holes, I've always been told that the fine cracks are OK so long as they do not run to the edge and/or they are not connected. So my question is; How do you know when to replace your rotors?
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You've answered your own question. Holes connected and going through the edges... You need new ones clearly
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Dave, I strongly advise you go with slotted, not drilled, rotors for serious track use. Also become familiar with the minimum recommended thickness printed on the rim of each rotor, and borrow or buy a gizmo to measure rotor thickness.
Professional Racing and Driving Coaching |
Wrightwood racing has a nice kit for your car that uses 332x32 slotted rotors and comes with a spacer and longer bolts for your existing caliper. These are slotted AP Racing or slotted Alcon rotors and they last a long time. I'm going on 2 years on my fronts.
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Originally Posted by Geoffrey
(Post 6331892)
Wrightwood racing has a nice kit for your car that uses 332x32 slotted rotors and comes with a spacer and longer bolts for your existing caliper. These are slotted AP Racing or slotted Alcon rotors and they last a long time. I'm going on 2 years on my fronts.
Professional Racing and Driving Coaching |
Thanks.. Couldn't find a website for Wrightwood. But I've looked for slotted that would fit my set-up without going to big reds and everything was $$ Custom.
Looks like I'll throw another set of OEM's on as I have a track day next Friday. |
those rotors are nasty...
(I thought I was pushing it...that's a 'hole' new definition) |
Originally Posted by DaveM993
(Post 6331949)
those rotors are nasty...
(I thought I was pushing it...that's a 'hole' new definition) I had planned on replacing them before RA. As mentioned above I have a set here already. |
And you know how I drive, |
Originally Posted by Geoffrey
(Post 6331996)
I'd make a joke here, but I don't have nearly the practice you have...:thumbup:
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Originally Posted by Veloce Raptor
(Post 6331904)
Yup, I use 332x32 StopTech slutted rotors & calipers on the front of my car (stock rears), with PFC01's all around. Front rotors last ~1.5-2 years, rears about the same. And you know how I drive, Dave. :D
Originally Posted by DaveM993
(Post 6331949)
those rotors are nasty...
(I thought I was pushing it...that's a 'hole' new definition) |
I think the conventional wisdom is replace when 3 holes connect or if the cracks reach the edge of the disk, Also, I saw a tech sheet that said that if the cracks are more than 7mm long. my rotor cracks are longer and deeper but not as many. Better safe than sorry on the brake hardware, I always say.
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Originally Posted by Mark in Baltimore
(Post 6332049)
I am offended by this statement. This is a technical forum; please refrain from salacious descriptions. :D
I have tracked rotors that were worse than this one, but, of course, it depends on how you brake or, to be specific, how little you brake. |
Originally Posted by 007DT
(Post 6331835)
How do you know when to replace your rotors?
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Dave:
Good advice about the spiderweb cracks from other folks. Replace 'em. For the front, after about 18 -20 DE days last year (VIR, RRR, & CMP) I've replaced OEM rotors twice and PFC 97s twice too. Rear rotors and pads once. By the way I'd really like to know how to get in touch with Wrightwood. I'm guessing those are custom hats and floating rotors. Ed |
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