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View Poll Results: Which Tire for first R-Comp on a 993
BFG R1
4
4.12%
Toyo Ra-1
55
56.70%
Mich Pilot Sport Cup
31
31.96%
Kuhmo v710
7
7.22%
Voters: 97. You may not vote on this poll

First R-Compounds - Which Ones

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Old 11-25-2007, 11:42 AM
  #46  
frayed
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re: driving slow cars fast. . . great when you beat up on experienced drivers in fast cars, yet you always have an excuse when your plan doesn't quite work out.

Originally Posted by Veloce Raptor
LOL, mooty & Dave!!!!

Larry and I see eye to eye on many things, including this one, obviously. And yes we are all guilty of it to some degree. They key, IMO, is recognizing the compulsion early, and redirecting it to improve talent rather than hardware.
You've done a stellar job resisting moditus. . . but when you go with a dedicated track car, it's hard not to stop on the hardware side when there are no longer any street compromises. Have you gotten data yet? I was thinking that a data acquisition system will be in order once I get back into the groove.
Old 11-25-2007, 12:08 PM
  #47  
rickdm
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I rode with a driver last weekend who had a new set of R888's on his Spec Miata. By mid session they were hooked up, none of the squirm and wear-in period required with unshaved RA-1's.

It wasn't on the list and it's not an R comp, but I'm curious of opinions on the Falken Azenis 615's. I've been curious about them as I've heard them described as about halfway between street and R comp. And they are relatively cheap. I thought about getting a set for my M Coupe which is serving as my backup DE car currently but is still a daily driver.
Greg, I run the Azenis on my Miata. I think they are better than an unsheved RA-1, but not nearly as fast as an RA-1 once you start wearing the tread down to optimum depth. The big problem is that they tend to overheat and get greasy. On my 2100lb. Miata it was not a problem, but on anything above 2500lbs. it probably would be. For lighter cars they have to be about the best street/track compromise.
Old 11-25-2007, 12:13 PM
  #48  
mooty
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Originally Posted by race911
Nothing that's yellow? Of course, it's likely resting for the winter so you'll be on your 2nd or 3rd future RS by the time I show up again..........
my rabbit is yellow. it's jeff r's car.
it's ok i get passed by you. you have been driving before i was born!... oops did i just reveal your age, LOL.

so yellow 6gt3 is fast and yellow 993 is fast.
my next car WILL BE YELLOW.
Old 11-25-2007, 12:14 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by mooty
i agree. my current rabbit is one fast 996gt3 (stock).
if i dont match his time anytime soon, i am selling the RS to buy a slow car so i wont be so embarrassed to show up on track.

Mooty-
Why don't we just swap straight out??
I'll even include transportation to the West Coast
I wouldn't want you to be embarrassed

Hell, I'll even paint it yellow if you want!!
Old 11-25-2007, 12:16 PM
  #50  
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[QUOTE=slvr993;4813460]
Originally Posted by Larry Herman
I find it ironic that drivers will spend lots of money on "go fast" equipment to get tenth's, while their driving leaves seconds on the table.....

If I lived in a warmer climate where I could drive year round I'd buy less crap for the car. I'm definitely guilty. It's when the car is in storage for the winter is when it happens .. and the only thing left is read forums, search for parts and "upgrade" .
i know the feeling, that's why i buy my cars b/n december and jan.... but i do live in sunny CA. so my logic is rather flawed.. i just need an excuse.
Old 11-25-2007, 12:20 PM
  #51  
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LOL@Mooty
Old 11-25-2007, 01:09 PM
  #52  
Veloce Raptor
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Originally Posted by frayed
Have you gotten data yet? I was thinking that a data acquisition system will be in order once I get back into the groove.

No, that's next.
Old 11-25-2007, 01:59 PM
  #53  
kurt M
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Originally Posted by frayed
re: driving slow cars fast. . . great when you beat up on experienced drivers in fast cars, yet you always have an excuse when your plan doesn't quite work out.
That's my story and I am sticking to it. Now i have to figure out the drive it fast part...

Feedback from the tire is important when moving from a street to a R comp tire. Money, performance and longevity aside I think the RA-1 has the advantage.
I had a long weekend with a student that drove hard but was on quiet tires for the first time and perhaps a little early for them. I could read them but he was having a time of it for a while.
Old 11-25-2007, 02:17 PM
  #54  
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I havent bought a new tire since 2001! find out when the speedGT world challenge comes to town and buy a few sets used!
as was said, they are good right to the cords!

mk


Originally Posted by Veloce Raptor
Buy some used, shaved RA1's to try them out before you invest big $ in new ones.

Heck, I liked them so much, I don't buy new ones!
Old 11-25-2007, 02:20 PM
  #55  
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Default Don speaks the truth....

Originally Posted by Don Plumley
RA-1's predictable at the limit, wear like iron, stay consistently sticky until corded. Get them shaved.
Don's sage like advice is something you should strongly consider. I have had the same experience as Don.

As we read below, "....I buy used Speed Touring Car tires since I run 235-40-17's all around!" 235/40/17 is a difficult tire size for 993 owners...they are too low profile for the front and when used with a 275/40/17 rear will create a condition with too much rolling radius delta front to rear, and off will go your ABS!!!!

Last edited by Martin S.; 11-25-2007 at 04:30 PM.
Old 11-25-2007, 02:46 PM
  #56  
Veloce Raptor
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
I havent bought a new tire since 2001! find out when the speedGT world challenge comes to town and buy a few sets used!
as was said, they are good right to the cords!

mk
Yeah, I buy used Speed Touring Car tires since I run 235-40-17's all around!
Old 11-25-2007, 04:17 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Mark in Baltimore
IMO, the BFG R1's are waste for DE, unless you're trying to set up the car for a race or crap out $100 bills everyday.
Mark,

Do you say that about the R1's because they wear bad? Just Curious because I have a set and have 2 track days & 2 Autocrosses with unusual outer & inner wear on the rears. I'm not sure what to expect from these. They grip great.
Old 11-25-2007, 04:28 PM
  #58  
Mark in Baltimore
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Originally Posted by 007DT
Mark,

Do you say that about the R1's because they wear bad? Just Curious because I have a set and have 2 track days & 2 Autocrosses with unusual outer & inner wear on the rears. I'm not sure what to expect from these. They grip great.
Dave,

I don't have enough time on the tires, my first set of R1's, to know if they wear badly or not. I think I have about six heat cycles on them from the Summit Point race.

The Hoosier R6's and BFG R1's are the stickiest DOT tires out there. For a DE where lap times don't matter quite as much, I prefer to run MPSC's which are almost as good as R6's and R1's but last much longer. When I burn through my current set of MPSC's, I'll switch over to shaved RA-1's for DE and practice.
Old 11-25-2007, 05:05 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
Another tire that we have experience with is the Nitto NT-01. Faster than the Toyos right out of the box, with good longevity and predicable breakaway.
Don't miss this suggestion. I'm on my second set of NT-01s and they are very good, better than the 3 sets of RA-1s I have had. Get the Nittos from Discount Tire Direct at decent prices.
Old 11-25-2007, 07:13 PM
  #60  
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Nitto is owned by Toyo. If I understand things correctly, the Nittos are Toyos R888s, but with different tread pattern (i.e., they are equivalent to the RA1 replacement).


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