schvetkaaks

I'm now in the mode to actually purchase one, after all this time, as I pick up my race car in October.

American Freedom trailers are made in Riverside, and from what I've found on the web, those who own them are very happy, and the cost is quite good. The big issue that really pulls me toward these (other than being local and not having shipping priced into the trailer) is weight - a 20' enclosed trailer is about 2400lbs - and they are not aluminum. I asked one of the guys there and he stated that he just doesn't know how the other manufacturers get their weight UP to 3200lbs, etc. The construction seems excellent - all metal framework, etc. That weight is a significant advantage in towing.

Also, as an aside, I know that it has been discussed before, but there are so many trailer threads I can't find it - why should I get a 20' trailer versus a 19' or 18'? Is it better for tongue weight and towing overall, or is it just because then you have a nice roomy place to hang out with the car inside??

Janni

If you are buying a dedicated race car - get a 24' trailer. You will thank us later.

You'll need to bring tools, coolers, tires, spares, etc. Plus your gear. And that list will grow. Then maybe a scooter or pit bike.

Racers bring stuff - that's just the way it is. And sometimes, you'll want to do something and get to things easily when the car is IN the trailer - 20' just doesn't cut it.

Sorry - no experience on the American Freedom brand - but if they aren't using aluminum, the lack of weight is not your friend....

schvetkaaks

Why is the lack of weight not my friend? Simply because there is an assumption that the materials are not as sturdy?

smlporsche

If the trailer is 1000#'s lighter that another brand's trailer of similar length and they are both made out of steel then you have 1000#'s less steel.
And with today's prices for metals of all sorts believe me no manufacturer wants to put in extra weight (i.e. cost) without needing it... Please talk to several current owners before purchasing.

As far as the length I agree with Janni that a 20" is just barely adequate,,, and that's if you don't plan on doing anything with the car in the trailer. I have a 24' with a VEE nose (www.milltrailers.com) and for me, it's just right.

ltc

My Cargopro 20' box (+ 51" V nose), fully finished interior, enclosed aluminum car hauler is about #2400#. I'd be impressed at a steel enclosed car hauler being the same weight.

As for length, please remember to consider your tow vehicle.

If you are planning on towing with a Cayenne (re: your avatar), I would not feel comfortable towing anything over 20' and anything close to the max capacity.

Just my 2 cents.

schvetkaaks

Old avatar - I will be towing with a 2007 Escalade, standard wheelbase.

I'm waiting for a call from the GM there explaining how it can be so light compared to other steel trailers.

ltc

With a standard wheelbase Escalade, I would recommend a weight distributing hitch (has been discussed here before) and also stay below 24'.

IIRC, there is another enclosed car hauler made in CA, you might want to take a look:
http://www.tpdtrailers.com/vortech_spec.htm

schvetkaaks

Now it seems the bigger problem is finding a place to park the trailer! Now I'm finding a minimum of $150/month to park it outside somewhere, since I don't have room at my place, nor can we park a trailer on our street overnight in the HOA.

Janni

A quick googling seems to show that they are mostly known for travel trailers and not necessarily car haulers. they have toy haulers that tote atv's and bikes, etc. The ATV forums folks seem to have a variety of issues - and some not so happy customers.

Hauling a 2500 pound car is an entirely different ball game. Travel trailers are usually pretty light, because the materials inside are light and they pretty much know the loaded weight. There is also a HUGE variation in quality in that segment. Totally different market than a car trailer - and I wouldn't buy one. Usually - the travel trailer folks focus more on aesthetics.....

It also appears that they only have a ONE YEAR warranty - that's pretty bad. Pace American has a three year warranty and over 400 network dealers that can help you. You'll be able to sell a "name brand" trailer down the road - because people know what to expect. If the warranty won't cover you for three years, most likely you won't be happy after three years....

Quick education / research - you're getting what you pay for.

schvetkaaks

Janni,

I've found more good than bad - in fact, only one bad incident on the ATV forums - so if you see a bunch more, please let me know.

I did talk with them earlier today about the warranty and they are stating that they are now offering a 10 year limited lifetime warranty on the trailers - always good to ask for written documentation, that's for sure.

sublimate

I can put my car, tools, 4 tires/wheels, and a spare engine & tranny in a 14' (V-nose, it wouldn't fit in a flat front) enclosed low height trailer which fits in my garage with ease. That said, it's a PITA and you have to be pretty creative with the packing.

Depending on how deep your garage is a 16' or 18' trailer might fit if you can't find any better parking arrangements and at least you'll know it's safe and secure.

While I'd agree with Janni that a 24' is certainly preferable, you can make do with smaller if you have to - particularly if you have extra room in your tow vehicle.

schvetkaaks

Okay, here's the lowdown - talked to the head of construction at the shop about 'why' their trailers are so light. It took a while, and a roundabout way, but the answer is incredibly simple - the exterior walls. While Interstate and Carson and the rest of them use a wood paneling over the metal frame, then put the aluminum skin over that, these guys put the aluminum skin over the metal frame directly - that's got to be 400-500lbs right there. Now, my worry was that someone could just lean on it and it would be dented, since it is just thin aluminum skin over steel metal frame (2X5"). Great solution he suggested - 2" hard foam core from Home Depot - glue is to the aluminum backing, and it's like an insulated garage door. It may not be as good as wood, of course, but it will definitely make a big difference, and is worth saving 500lbs or so. 1 year warranty bumper to bumper.

Now, more on torsion versus spring - while torsion provides a superior ride, this manufacturer is not a big fan as torsion axles are just compressed rubber frozen in place - when the load gets too high, they are prone to breakage. He's not a fan, but confesses that the ride is MUCH better than spring. However, another solution (I like these solutions to problems) is to go with spring axles but add gas shocks - even smoother than torsion, similar price, but far more reliable.

I'm liking this company and may very well purchase one of these trailers...

chrisp

think about what the support/protection the woods provides inside the trailer.

I can imagine that anything that touches the aluminum skin will dent it or even cut through it. Those aluminum panels aren't all that thick. One touch with the car door, the handle from a jack, you're shoulder as your crawling around tightening straps. Not to mention what a rolling tool box or spare wheel/tire would do.

If you add 1" of foam backer that reduces the wall to wall clearance by 2". The strength in a foam core design comes from the durable skin on both sides of the foam. I don't think it'll do much other than sound deadening if you have only one side skinned.

Don't the unsupported aluminum panels buffet in the wind?

Geoffrey

My Featherlight is aluminum paneling over aluminum studs with foam in the middle. Common practice for aluminum trailers. Wood is generally used on lower end trailers.

schvetkaaks

The aluminum panels are all attached to the metal framework with aerospace 3M tape (don't give me 'that scares me' because if you have ever flown in a plane, that sucker is glued together too) and with regard to protection inside the trailer, it does have wood - 4 feet high. Carson, Interstate, etc use wood on the inside AND outside - full to the ceiling inside, and on the outside with aluminum skin. They use 16 gauge aluminum sheeting on the outside, thicker than what the wood-shelled ones go for, but of course, without wood shell backing.

The foam does not reduce the wall to wall clearance - it is placed between the steel frame, and 2" is the size of the beams, so it makes for a flush wall.

Here's a picture - might help illustrate better.



See how the metal framework has wood (painted black) from floor to about 4 feet high? The foam will go behind that, and then the rest will go above and be exposed, attached to the aluminum skin with liquid nails or something of that sort, insulating it and providing some strength so it is not dented as easily.

BTW, I was so convinced with all the time I spent with them talking about the details and how it is made that I ordered one.

20' V-nose, workbench in front, side door, beavertail, two vents, spring axles with shocks all around, 4 heavy duty tiedowns, and metal rollers on the bottom edge of the beavertail so it does not scrape in a driveway. 2380lbs (estimated), $6,213 out the door with tax and registration...