Hoosier R6 lifetime
#1
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Hoosier R6 lifetime
Just wanted to put in my experiences with this recently, since I know it's come up before (but I'm too lazy to dig up the old threads to post to).
I put a fresh set on at the beginning of the year; probably screwed up the scrub-in process, think we hit them too hard too quickly, and without enough pressure in them (forgot you're supposed to run them 3-5psi higher than normal for break-in). We did let them set for 24hrs before running them, though.
After about 12 heat cycles, they were done, hard, and just about to the cords. We were actually fighting with grip levels, took them (after 15 cycles) to our Hoosier guy for a look-see, because we were getting what seemed like a funny wear pattern, and wanted to make sure they were OK. Where the two big circumferential grooves were, well, they were gone, worn smooth, but we had a sort of 3-hump wear pattern on the tires, with low spots where the grooves were. It was even all the way around, on all 4, otherwise looked almost like a belt had gone, there was such a bulge.
His answer was: "Looks like you got your money's worth out of those, they don't owe you anything!" Time for new tires, they were done, and ready to bust through to the cords. Clearly those stupid little holes in the edge, by the shoulder, aren't any good for wear indication except actually on the shoulder; the main grooves clearly are it. Paddock spot next over, the Nissan 240SX was running the same exact size (225/45/15) on the same schedule, and had corded two at the same level of wear.
So after 10-12 cycles, they dropped off notably in lap times/softness, and were ready to cord at 15. All heat cycles were at Waterford Hills, FWIW - not a particularly harsh track on tires to my knowledge, but not easy either - virtually no straights, you're grinding on them all the time.
I'm hoping we can improve durability with better heat cycling, but I'd be surprised if we make it past 15 with good traction still possible. I fear the new ones may not make it to the end of my season; have a very long weekend at Mid-O coming up, and still two more weekends to go at Waterford - 11 more, after the 2 they've just run, so they'll probably be giving up the ghost by then... maybe I'll have to try to burn up and cord the old ones in qualifying sessions...
I put a fresh set on at the beginning of the year; probably screwed up the scrub-in process, think we hit them too hard too quickly, and without enough pressure in them (forgot you're supposed to run them 3-5psi higher than normal for break-in). We did let them set for 24hrs before running them, though.
After about 12 heat cycles, they were done, hard, and just about to the cords. We were actually fighting with grip levels, took them (after 15 cycles) to our Hoosier guy for a look-see, because we were getting what seemed like a funny wear pattern, and wanted to make sure they were OK. Where the two big circumferential grooves were, well, they were gone, worn smooth, but we had a sort of 3-hump wear pattern on the tires, with low spots where the grooves were. It was even all the way around, on all 4, otherwise looked almost like a belt had gone, there was such a bulge.
His answer was: "Looks like you got your money's worth out of those, they don't owe you anything!" Time for new tires, they were done, and ready to bust through to the cords. Clearly those stupid little holes in the edge, by the shoulder, aren't any good for wear indication except actually on the shoulder; the main grooves clearly are it. Paddock spot next over, the Nissan 240SX was running the same exact size (225/45/15) on the same schedule, and had corded two at the same level of wear.
So after 10-12 cycles, they dropped off notably in lap times/softness, and were ready to cord at 15. All heat cycles were at Waterford Hills, FWIW - not a particularly harsh track on tires to my knowledge, but not easy either - virtually no straights, you're grinding on them all the time.
I'm hoping we can improve durability with better heat cycling, but I'd be surprised if we make it past 15 with good traction still possible. I fear the new ones may not make it to the end of my season; have a very long weekend at Mid-O coming up, and still two more weekends to go at Waterford - 11 more, after the 2 they've just run, so they'll probably be giving up the ghost by then... maybe I'll have to try to burn up and cord the old ones in qualifying sessions...
#2
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Try another tire...
I got 12 heat cycles out of my last and final set of Hoosiers. That is not enough for me.
I have been using Hankook Z214 tires...got 17 heat cycles out of them, mo betah. I also get 16 to 20+ heat cycles out of Toyo RA-1 tires. They wear well...but not as sticky as Hoosier of Hankook.
I have been using Hankook Z214 tires...got 17 heat cycles out of them, mo betah. I also get 16 to 20+ heat cycles out of Toyo RA-1 tires. They wear well...but not as sticky as Hoosier of Hankook.
#3
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How much do you find you lose in time from the Hoosiers to the Hankooks? I have a set of those as a final, Fit Hits the Shan backup...
Unfortunately, I'm not yet ready to give up competing for wins, so I'm still stuck sucking on the Hoosier crack pipe...
Unfortunately, I'm not yet ready to give up competing for wins, so I'm still stuck sucking on the Hoosier crack pipe...
#4
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I have a feeling you are sqeezing 225s on 7s? They will work and last much better on 8s.
I used to run the 225/45/15 on the fronts on 7s and they did not stick well and I killed the outer edge due to too little negative camber. On 8s no problems.
Mine are faster at 12 cycles than they were the 1st cycle (3rd-5th cycles seemed ultimate fastest with a slow dropoff after that which is barely noticeable).
I used to run the 225/45/15 on the fronts on 7s and they did not stick well and I killed the outer edge due to too little negative camber. On 8s no problems.
Mine are faster at 12 cycles than they were the 1st cycle (3rd-5th cycles seemed ultimate fastest with a slow dropoff after that which is barely noticeable).
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No wonder I'm slow.... I'm still running the ones I bolted on last December...
they've got 10 days on them (figure 4 sessions per day)...
I just keep on soaking them with Formula V...
they've got 10 days on them (figure 4 sessions per day)...
I just keep on soaking them with Formula V...
#7
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LOL... I'm sure they'd last much better on 7's, then, too - I'm running them on 15x6's! ITB class rules restrict all cars to max 6" wide rims. I did run them on 7's when I was in ITA, but I'd rather risk being a little slower, but at the front of the pack, than move up one and always be relegated to Fastest in Non-Honda! I just hope I'll have better durability out of this second set...
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#8
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by 924RACR
How much do you find you lose in time from the Hoosiers to the Hankooks? I have a set of those as a final, Fit Hits the Shan backup...
Unfortunately, I'm not yet ready to give up competing for wins, so I'm still stuck sucking on the Hoosier crack pipe...
Unfortunately, I'm not yet ready to give up competing for wins, so I'm still stuck sucking on the Hoosier crack pipe...
#9
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We see above, "I'm not yet ready to give up competing for wins, so I'm still stuck sucking on the Hoosier crack pipe."
I have tried Hoosiers and Hankook Z214 tires back to back. I could tell no difference...the Hankooks were about $100 a set cheaper. Every little $ saved is good for my racing budget.
I have tried Hoosiers and Hankook Z214 tires back to back. I could tell no difference...the Hankooks were about $100 a set cheaper. Every little $ saved is good for my racing budget.
#10
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225s on 6s!!!
I remember we had to use 6x15ss in A Stock SCCA Solo-II on my 1972 911S.
I started out on 195/60 Yoko A001R which were fine, then went to A008R 205/50.
Also tried the 225/50 which would work, but ONLY the comp TA R1s which were designed as cheater
tires to work on narrow rims.
If I were you, I'd go back to 205s.
good luck!
I remember we had to use 6x15ss in A Stock SCCA Solo-II on my 1972 911S.
I started out on 195/60 Yoko A001R which were fine, then went to A008R 205/50.
Also tried the 225/50 which would work, but ONLY the comp TA R1s which were designed as cheater
tires to work on narrow rims.
If I were you, I'd go back to 205s.
good luck!
#11
Originally Posted by Martin S
I have tried Hoosiers and Hankook Z214 tires back to back. I could tell no difference...the Hankooks were about $100 a set cheaper. Every little $ saved is good for my racing budget.
#12
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No one mentioned Kuhmo's. I use the 710's and find they "go away" much later than Hoosiers. I'll get 6-8 hot laps with Hoosiers and 10-12+ on Kuhmo's. They last at least as many cycles and are $160/set cheaper for me.
#13
I tried the z214 partly because of Martin's recommendation on my last set and loved them. If I could keep from flatspotting them, I look forward to getting 17 heat cycles. On my tire size they are about $200 cheaper a set too.
#14
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Hmmm... that is quite a surprise - good tires out of Korea, who'd've thunk it?
If only I weren't already sitting on a stack of old Michelins and Hankooks already, I could try and convince my wife that we need a set for her to run DE's on... heh heh...
If only I weren't already sitting on a stack of old Michelins and Hankooks already, I could try and convince my wife that we need a set for her to run DE's on... heh heh...
#15
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Originally Posted by pat056
No one mentioned Kuhmo's. I use the 710's and find they "go away" much later than Hoosiers. I'll get 6-8 hot laps with Hoosiers and 10-12+ on Kuhmo's. They last at least as many cycles and are $160/set cheaper for me.