my pads look glazed, rotors cracking- pics
#1
Burning Brakes
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soooo...i'm a big idiot. but this is not what we are going to discuss. i'm wondering about where we go from here. i'm just driving DE's at a mild-braking track. the pads have loads of life remaining. the rear rotors have no cracking, and the fronts just started cracking 4 events ago (when i began using these 19/yellows). i clearly didn't bed them correctly. pagids process is, well, involved.
1)can these pads be scuffed-up a bit to remove the outer glazed layer?
2)are the pads still safely usable?
3)are the rotors safe?
more background: i use oem textar for the street, and swap at the track. these are big reds on a 993 c2.
1)can these pads be scuffed-up a bit to remove the outer glazed layer?
2)are the pads still safely usable?
3)are the rotors safe?
more background: i use oem textar for the street, and swap at the track. these are big reds on a 993 c2.
#2
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Your rotors look fine to me. Totally typical. In fact, I'd say they actually look pretty darn good. Read here for more info:
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/265190-expected-life-of-brake-rotors-for-tracked-cars.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/265190-expected-life-of-brake-rotors-for-tracked-cars.html
#3
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they look fine to me ...as long as holes dont connect from one to the other and go all the way to outside i drive on mine. pads depending on the compound they lool\k simular to my yellows and blacks
#5
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Seriously, those rotors and pads look normal after some track use.
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#8
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Hey;
The rotors look normal. The only thing that might give you some trouble is switching pads back and forth without doing proper rebedding. It needs to be done to a lesser degree than when they are new, but it still needs to be done to create the proper transfer layer for each pad type. You won't get the best performance unless you do, and in some cases I might imagine that some pad compounds just don't like eachother at all.
Just like the F1 guys squawking about having to run on a track after the Super Cup guys lay their rubber on it. De car... she doan greep so well for a few laps... capiche?
The rotors look normal. The only thing that might give you some trouble is switching pads back and forth without doing proper rebedding. It needs to be done to a lesser degree than when they are new, but it still needs to be done to create the proper transfer layer for each pad type. You won't get the best performance unless you do, and in some cases I might imagine that some pad compounds just don't like eachother at all.
Just like the F1 guys squawking about having to run on a track after the Super Cup guys lay their rubber on it. De car... she doan greep so well for a few laps... capiche?
#9
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Pagid, with all their instructions, cautions on not changing from their pads to a different brand. I felt fine moving from the OEM pad made by Pagid to the RS-19s, but then I have wound up just leaving the RS-19s in all the time. I find them fine on the street. At the track they need a bit of bedding, but not more than I do to put a bit of heat in the tires and see how the adhesion is.
#10
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Mike:
Not to worry,....![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Seriously, those rotors and pads look normal after some track use.
Not to worry,....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Seriously, those rotors and pads look normal after some track use.
#13
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hahahaha, if you think those are cracks, you will faint when you see mine rotors.
#15
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Originally Posted by mooty
hahahaha, if you think those are cracks, you will faint when you see mine rotors.