Expected life of brake rotors for tracked cars?
#1
Expected life of brake rotors for tracked cars?
I have 20 days of track use (i.e. one year) on my 993's big red rotors, and I'm wondering if I'm due for replacement. What kind of rotor life are you guys seeing? I know the rule that if the stress cracks are 7mm long, then they should be replaced. By that measure, I'm probably overdue. I'll measure the crack lengths and rotor thickness tonight to see if they're in spec. But I'm still curious to know what life others are getting.
#3
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Eric, I got roughly 30 track days on my big reds on my 96 C4S. As usual cracks were the problem. The rule (according to the Porsche tech manual) is if cracks join 3 or more holes or, any crack goes to the edge of the rotor you replace them.
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Best,
#5
OEM Porsche rotors can be pretty durable. I put 930 rotors on my 1973 911 in 2000, and totaled the car a couple of years later. They got moved to my new 1972 tub, and are going fine (by either the 7mm or 3-hole rule) in their sixth year. This is with three week-long Open Track Challenges (finally won the class and division), at least two track days a month, and a complete season of wheel to wheel with the ARC (won my class). I also drive it about 8000 miles a year on the street.
The car is heavy, for its year, at 2500 pounds with a full tank of gas and no driver, and the horsepower (250-ish) is nothing to write home about in the world of track cars.
78-9 front 930 rotors are over $400 a pair, though, so I'm glad they're lasting.
But a lot depends on the tracks you drive. I spend most of my time at Willow Springs, which is too fast to do much damage to brakes.
The car is heavy, for its year, at 2500 pounds with a full tank of gas and no driver, and the horsepower (250-ish) is nothing to write home about in the world of track cars.
78-9 front 930 rotors are over $400 a pair, though, so I'm glad they're lasting.
But a lot depends on the tracks you drive. I spend most of my time at Willow Springs, which is too fast to do much damage to brakes.
#6
I've got 993 TT rotors on the front of my 930 that I bolted on in January. They are on their last leg.
In fact, I'm trying to locate some before my Mid Ohio event 2 weekends from now...
In fact, I'm trying to locate some before my Mid Ohio event 2 weekends from now...
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#8
Colin has the secret. The more mass you are stopping, the more likely that rotors will suffer.
My car races at 3370# with driver. One set of stock [undrilled] rotors might make it through a full season if I'm lucky. The last set had some serious cracks when I replaced them. Massive cooling ducts and fully ducted rotor housing, so the rotors run as cool as they can.
My car races at 3370# with driver. One set of stock [undrilled] rotors might make it through a full season if I'm lucky. The last set had some serious cracks when I replaced them. Massive cooling ducts and fully ducted rotor housing, so the rotors run as cool as they can.
#11
Originally Posted by TheOtherEric
Bob, I like that rule better than the 7mm rule. I'm going with that one.
eric used his 993 Big red rotors until you could put your fingernail into some of the cracks (probably a little too far gone because they prematurely wore out his pads that way too)...
..and the thickness was too low as well but no warping problems so why not keep going?
#13
i got a whole season on a set last year...using Pagid Black pads...2450 lbs. brake "scoops", no ducting. just replaced them with non-cross drilled, but slotted factory rotors. they were cryo treated...we will see how long they last...
#14
Originally Posted by R4][N_M4l{3R
Do brake cooling ducts really increase the life of rotors on a mild, street driven track car?
yup.. he has them.. as do I ... as did eric on his former 993
#15
Originally Posted by R4][N_M4l{3R
Do brake cooling ducts really increase the life of rotors on a mild, street driven track car?