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Old 05-11-2023, 02:09 PM
  #76  
lgusto
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Originally Posted by The Ox;[url=tel:18796278
18796278[/url]]I use the USB port, 2017 Carrera, haven't had a power issue.
I’ve always used the cigarette lighter adapter in my 2014 911 without any issue.
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Old 05-11-2023, 02:34 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by The Ox
I use the USB port, 2017 Carrera, haven't had a power issue.
Surprised to hear.

In the four of five hundred I’ve used with clients, demoed or sold since 9/2020, I’ve not had much luck at all going to the USB port on any car. As a matter of fact, Garmin is explicit in their directions to use only the included lighter plug transformer (2.1A instead of 1.0A) or the hard wire transformer.

Even using the hard wire transformer in a few Cup cars, I’ve found that some of the accessory ports don’t work and others do.

There is no question the sensitivity to input voltage and current is an issue with this hardware, but there are so many folks that don’t experience issues that I know the supplied solutions DO work.

Complicating the diagnosis of this issue are two other known hardware bugs.

One, some of the spring loaded base contacts fail to make good contact with the unit (dirty contacts, cockeyed retaining brackets, arm coming into contact with the dash and shaking the tablet loose momentarily).

Two, a batch of bad cameras (appeared in early 2022, most all now replaced and the new ones have been trouble free).

The latter can be confusing because when there is insufficient power, the “No Camera Connected” is the most common error.

Last edited by ProCoach; 05-11-2023 at 02:45 PM.
Old 05-11-2023, 05:36 PM
  #78  
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Mine used to remember the track, driver, car etc between sessions.
Now I have to enter all that info every session, which is tough as I have to remove my gloves and time is tight.
Any ideas how to get it back to only needing to start a session each time?
Old 05-11-2023, 07:28 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by ProCoach
Surprised to hear.
In the four of five hundred I’ve used with clients, demoed or sold since 9/2020, I’ve not had much luck at all going to the USB port on any car. As a matter of fact, Garmin is explicit in their directions to use only the included lighter plug transformer (2.1A instead of 1.0A) or the hard wire transformer.
.
As a data point, I use the USB port in the glove box of my 991.2 RS and works fine for me.
Old 05-11-2023, 08:27 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by analogmike
Mine used to remember the track, driver, car etc between sessions.
Now I have to enter all that info every session, which is tough as I have to remove my gloves and time is tight.
Any ideas how to get it back to only needing to start a session each time?
Give it more time outside powered on to aquire satellites before you try to drive. Once the GPS has a few bars of strength it will list local tracks.
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Old 05-12-2023, 12:22 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by sonorous
Give it more time outside powered on to aquire satellites before you try to drive. Once the GPS has a few bars of strength it will list local tracks.
I should not have to choose the track on the 2nd session of the day again. It used to just come up ready to start the next session.

Every session it also forgets my bluetooth, and is hard to make it connect, I have to turn the Garmin bluetooth off and on then it connects to my helmet bluetooth.... ;(
Old 05-12-2023, 07:45 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by analogmike
I should not have to choose the track on the 2nd session of the day again. It used to just come up ready to start the next session.

Every session it also forgets my bluetooth, and is hard to make it connect, I have to turn the Garmin bluetooth off and on then it connects to my helmet bluetooth.... ;(
I can't speak to the bluetooth issue....I always avoid bluetooth because of problems connecting so I use wired earplugs.

But having to choose tracks between sessions is not normal. My Catalyst always shows up ready to drive between sessions.
Old 05-12-2023, 08:05 AM
  #83  
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Quick question re: camera mounting… mounting instructions state that the camera should be mounted both high and ferreted on the windshield. If I had to choose between higher or “centered-er”, which should I choose? …in other words should I mount below the RVM base, directly in the center or the windshield or slightly higher (but off center) to the left or right of the RVM mount?

I realize that I’m talking about centimeters here, so perhaps the choice is meaningless but I thought I’d ask nonetheless
Old 05-12-2023, 08:28 AM
  #84  
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The higher the better. The only major concern is if the RVM base or pieces block the outside view of anything in the white track width box visible during camera setup. That is very important that nothing prevent a clear view of the road in front in that box.
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Old 05-12-2023, 09:36 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by ProCoach
The higher the better. The only major concern is if the RVM base or pieces block the outside view of anything in the white track width box visible during camera setup. That is very important that nothing prevent a clear view of the road in front in that box.
Roger that. So…
higher/off center > centered/lower
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Old 05-12-2023, 09:47 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by rubber_ducky
Roger that. So…
higher/off center > centered/lower
Be careful with anything blocking the view of the camera. Here's a pic of a poor placement. The small bit of the rear view mirror mount on the left side of the pic caused lots of problems for the Catalyst, causing it to draw very sguiggly lines on the track map. Remounting the camera without this interference and then redrawing the track map (https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?fa...G05Faj6BX1Qo2A) fixed the problem.




Old 05-12-2023, 05:19 PM
  #87  
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I doubt the camera needed to move more than three inches to the right to fix that, Larry.

Folks, all you need to do is go on to camera setup and make sure no part of the black shrouding inside or outside the windshield is INSIDE the white box on the setup screen and no part of the car body (fenders, hood) is above the green outline.

BTW, that's a fine view and that IS the apex area of Turn One! <big grin>
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Old 05-13-2023, 08:43 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by ProCoach
I doubt the camera needed to move more than three inches to the right to fix that, Larry.

Folks, all you need to do is go on to camera setup and make sure no part of the black shrouding inside or outside the windshield is INSIDE the white box on the setup screen and no part of the car body (fenders, hood) is above the green outline.

BTW, that's a fine view and that IS the apex area of Turn One! <big grin>
Coach, you're right, a small move made a big difference. I was fortunate to spend some time with Ross while he was at Sebring last November. As soon as he saw the one of my session videos he knew what the problem was and how to fix it.

Turn One? Yes! After watching your and Ross's Sebring Virtual Track Walk about a dozen times I always get a thrill out of passing right underneath the Zero marker. Your Virtual Track Walks at Sebring and Watkins Glen are easily the best money I've ever spent on driving.
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Old 05-13-2023, 10:37 AM
  #89  
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There is a great FB group for Garmin Support. Some Garmin people regularly watch it and help users. It's also not heavily moderated like some of the groups, so you get real answers and it's not censored.
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Old 11-16-2023, 01:24 PM
  #90  
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Default An "Article" I wrote soon...

......after being addictedto my new (At that time) 2020? Garmin Catalyst. I was not compensated or incentivised for this piece....As I recall, I wrote it for a local Porsche Club Magazine...they choose not to publish it.

The piece is being provided rather late in the game as I am cleaning up my Mac.

I may have sent to to Peter Krause back in the day...don't recall. He was my source for my Garmin Catalyst. I don't think I posted t to this Forum back in the day. If I dd, so sorry.
Attached Files
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GARMIN CATALYST.docx (1.28 MB, 34 views)

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