When half-shafts go bad (pic).....
#33
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Thanks! I also found a dist. for the NEO:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/q-supply.htm
Also, this: http://www.thtgroup.com/higtemlub.html
http://www.mazdatrix.com/q-supply.htm
Also, this: http://www.thtgroup.com/higtemlub.html
#34
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Also, I'll reiterate what was said above, axles, once run, must be run in the same direction from then on. They will twist over time and will unwind and fail prematurely if run the opposite direction.
Crack checking driveshafts is important as a matter of raceprep -- cracks start at the root of the spline and work there way towards the center of the shaft.
300M is an excellent choice for material -- if hollow, surface finish inside is as important as the outside. Good gun-drilling followed by honing is required.
Krytox is the only CV grease to use for racing applications -- just dont get it on your skin.
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#36
#37
#38
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Robert - you have always suggested 217 in previous threads related to your CV products - and then you started mentioning 297.
I am trying to order 217, and I CANNOT FIND a place that will just sell it to me - locally.
I suppose I can buy it online, but the places I have found:
https://trorderonline.thomasregister...&searchstring=
Have a minimum order. The grease is below that.
I am trying to order 217, and I CANNOT FIND a place that will just sell it to me - locally.
I suppose I can buy it online, but the places I have found:
https://trorderonline.thomasregister...&searchstring=
Have a minimum order. The grease is below that.
#39
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Does anyone have the Porsche PN for the TT Black Axles ?
I believe it is 996-332-024-10. However, the best price I can find is $675/axle.
Is there a cheaper source, or different PN that everyone is using ?
Pls advise... Thanks !
Bill
'89 944 Turbo-S
'02 966 TT
'03 GT3 Cup
I believe it is 996-332-024-10. However, the best price I can find is $675/axle.
Is there a cheaper source, or different PN that everyone is using ?
Pls advise... Thanks !
Bill
'89 944 Turbo-S
'02 966 TT
'03 GT3 Cup
#40
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Causes of broken axles:
1. Accelerating hard while rear end light (suspension extended) or after catching air over birms
2. Accelerating before car completely dropped from air jacks in hot pits
3. Excessive standing starts
Please add your favorites and we can all learn from each other:![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Note, once an axle has been used on one side, it is only a spare for that side. Splines will wear, even if not visually detectable from regular eyesight.
1. Accelerating hard while rear end light (suspension extended) or after catching air over birms
2. Accelerating before car completely dropped from air jacks in hot pits
3. Excessive standing starts
Please add your favorites and we can all learn from each other:
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Note, once an axle has been used on one side, it is only a spare for that side. Splines will wear, even if not visually detectable from regular eyesight.
This is pretty interesting as my friend broke two blue axels on his 996 Cup (03) last weekend in back to back sessions, first the left, then the right one (we had spares to keep him going). Both broke shortly after the drop on the turn 5 hill (the right side with the steep drop). He said the car was unwaiting, then snap! I guess number 1 really does break axels, but I wonder how may birms he hit first?
JCM
#42
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Does anyone have the Porsche PN for the TT Black Axles ?
I believe it is 996-332-024-10. However, the best price I can find is $675/axle.
Is there a cheaper source, or different PN that everyone is using ?
Pls advise... Thanks !
Bill
'89 944 Turbo-S
'02 966 TT
'03 GT3 Cup
I believe it is 996-332-024-10. However, the best price I can find is $675/axle.
Is there a cheaper source, or different PN that everyone is using ?
Pls advise... Thanks !
Bill
'89 944 Turbo-S
'02 966 TT
'03 GT3 Cup
carroll
#43
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Its not really so much engine torque that fails halfshafts, more so the intertia loading (and unloading) while curb hopping while on throttle, standing starts etc. Tire to tire contact can induce large loads into the stub axles and driveshafts. After all, they are torsion bars
Also, I'll reiterate what was said above, axles, once run, must be run in the same direction from then on. They will twist over time and will unwind and fail prematurely if run the opposite direction.
Crack checking driveshafts is important as a matter of raceprep -- cracks start at the root of the spline and work there way towards the center of the shaft.
300M is an excellent choice for material -- if hollow, surface finish inside is as important as the outside. Good gun-drilling followed by honing is required.
Krytox is the only CV grease to use for racing applications -- just dont get it on your skin.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Also, I'll reiterate what was said above, axles, once run, must be run in the same direction from then on. They will twist over time and will unwind and fail prematurely if run the opposite direction.
Crack checking driveshafts is important as a matter of raceprep -- cracks start at the root of the spline and work there way towards the center of the shaft.
300M is an excellent choice for material -- if hollow, surface finish inside is as important as the outside. Good gun-drilling followed by honing is required.
Krytox is the only CV grease to use for racing applications -- just dont get it on your skin.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#44