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When half-shafts go bad (pic).....

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Old 09-30-2007, 08:37 PM
  #31  
AndyT
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My tech is handling that, I will check for you .
Old 09-30-2007, 09:16 PM
  #32  
Geoffrey
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Neo is available from HRP Racing
Old 10-03-2007, 12:35 PM
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BC
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Thanks! I also found a dist. for the NEO:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/q-supply.htm

Also, this: http://www.thtgroup.com/higtemlub.html
Old 10-06-2007, 09:11 PM
  #34  
chris walrod
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Originally Posted by analogmike
Seems odd to me that these relatively low torque GT3's are breaking the metal axles. What do they use in powerful cars like GT1 Corvettes???
Its not really so much engine torque that fails halfshafts, more so the intertia loading (and unloading) while curb hopping while on throttle, standing starts etc. Tire to tire contact can induce large loads into the stub axles and driveshafts. After all, they are torsion bars

Also, I'll reiterate what was said above, axles, once run, must be run in the same direction from then on. They will twist over time and will unwind and fail prematurely if run the opposite direction.

Crack checking driveshafts is important as a matter of raceprep -- cracks start at the root of the spline and work there way towards the center of the shaft.

300M is an excellent choice for material -- if hollow, surface finish inside is as important as the outside. Good gun-drilling followed by honing is required.

Krytox is the only CV grease to use for racing applications -- just dont get it on your skin.
Old 10-09-2007, 08:08 AM
  #35  
Robert Linton
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Use Krytox GPL 297.
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Old 10-09-2007, 11:09 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Robert Linton
Use Krytox GPL 297.
Would this also be good for high stress wheel bearings?
Old 10-11-2007, 05:42 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Robert Linton
Use Krytox GPL 297.
Would you possibly mean 227? I have not found a 297.

Thanks!
Old 10-11-2007, 06:00 PM
  #38  
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Robert - you have always suggested 217 in previous threads related to your CV products - and then you started mentioning 297.

I am trying to order 217, and I CANNOT FIND a place that will just sell it to me - locally.

I suppose I can buy it online, but the places I have found:

https://trorderonline.thomasregister...&searchstring=

Have a minimum order. The grease is below that.
Old 03-11-2008, 11:18 PM
  #39  
Bill Farrell
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Does anyone have the Porsche PN for the TT Black Axles ?
I believe it is 996-332-024-10. However, the best price I can find is $675/axle.
Is there a cheaper source, or different PN that everyone is using ?

Pls advise... Thanks !

Bill
'89 944 Turbo-S
'02 966 TT
'03 GT3 Cup
Old 03-12-2008, 12:30 AM
  #40  
supercup
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Originally Posted by Austin
Causes of broken axles:
1. Accelerating hard while rear end light (suspension extended) or after catching air over birms

2. Accelerating before car completely dropped from air jacks in hot pits

3. Excessive standing starts


Please add your favorites and we can all learn from each other:


Note, once an axle has been used on one side, it is only a spare for that side. Splines will wear, even if not visually detectable from regular eyesight.

This is pretty interesting as my friend broke two blue axels on his 996 Cup (03) last weekend in back to back sessions, first the left, then the right one (we had spares to keep him going). Both broke shortly after the drop on the turn 5 hill (the right side with the steep drop). He said the car was unwaiting, then snap! I guess number 1 really does break axels, but I wonder how may birms he hit first?

JCM
Old 04-23-2008, 07:57 AM
  #41  
PMS993
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Still cheaper than a transmission problem...
Old 04-23-2008, 09:20 PM
  #42  
2000gt3cup
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Originally Posted by Bill Farrell
Does anyone have the Porsche PN for the TT Black Axles ?
I believe it is 996-332-024-10. However, the best price I can find is $675/axle.
Is there a cheaper source, or different PN that everyone is using ?

Pls advise... Thanks !

Bill
'89 944 Turbo-S
'02 966 TT
'03 GT3 Cup
those appear to be the right part number .. you can email my source at everett@newtonmotorsports.com use my name Carroll and ask him for a price using my discount

carroll
Old 04-24-2008, 05:19 PM
  #43  
jmreiser
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Originally Posted by chris walrod
Its not really so much engine torque that fails halfshafts, more so the intertia loading (and unloading) while curb hopping while on throttle, standing starts etc. Tire to tire contact can induce large loads into the stub axles and driveshafts. After all, they are torsion bars

Also, I'll reiterate what was said above, axles, once run, must be run in the same direction from then on. They will twist over time and will unwind and fail prematurely if run the opposite direction.

Crack checking driveshafts is important as a matter of raceprep -- cracks start at the root of the spline and work there way towards the center of the shaft.

300M is an excellent choice for material -- if hollow, surface finish inside is as important as the outside. Good gun-drilling followed by honing is required.

Krytox is the only CV grease to use for racing applications -- just dont get it on your skin.
I have heard this often, so last year I looked it up, and read the MSDS. Turns out that Krytox is used in some brands of makeup, and it is Ok for your skin. However they specifically warn of the following risk. If you get it on your fingers, and then smoke a cigarette, Krytox will get on the paper, and when it then reaches 530 degrees F, it releases wicked toxic fumes. You will get very ill for most of a week. So I believe this is why people say not to get it on your skin. Another approach is not to smoke the Krytox.
Old 04-24-2008, 05:20 PM
  #44  
jmreiser
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Originally Posted by PMS993
Still cheaper than a transmission problem...
Not if you break some of Bob Linton's incredible axles (photos above). They are not cheap, but they are said to be superb.
Old 05-01-2008, 08:51 AM
  #45  
Acropora
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Not sure why you'd use 993tt axles. My old mechanic replaced the last broken one w/ a GT3 axle saying it was stronger...


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