Ken89911T

I'm considering getting into a 997.1 cup car, most likely just for DEs, maybe club racing. Did years with a PCA J-class 996 GT3, and now that I need a new car, I have this ridiculous notion that I should get a cup car. Aside from the obvious differences in driving a cup, what should one expect in terms of care and feeding for these cars. I'm only looking at cars that are well maintained and without high hours on the drivetrain. Any insights appreciated.

spiller

MSR Racer

This is a long list. They are awesome to drive but expensive.
Engine rebuild 30K +, Gearbox refresh 10-15K. Everything else is also in thousands.
The best way to start is to take the car to a top level Porsche Racing team familiar with cups and have them go over and fix everything.
Afterwards, you MAY be able to do maiintenance work as you wish. But don't start by being cheap or going to a dodgy shop. Also, remember that almost everything in the car times out!
Also, if you worried about writing big checks, don't buy it. It wont be fun.

I have owned 2 996 Cups in the last few years and went through a couple shops before finding a good team.

RENN GTS

What this man said.

fstockcarrera

The cheapest part of getting into a cup is the price of the car. They are 15-20k each winter for a 996 or a 1k an hour
not including tires, pads or anything else.

rebrewer

I just got my '03, and @fstockcarrera is right about the purchase being the cheapest part. I do almost all my own work so that almost makes it affordable for me. I've been tracking my 996 GT3 and went to a 996 Cup for many of the same reasons as @spiller. New Pirelli slicks are $2200 last time I checked but you can get scrubs with 75% tread left for about $700.

Bob

gt2-josh

Fascinating. The costs are near identical to running an F40 on the street. If it makes you feel better an F40 requires a minimum of $25K per year just to keep running properly. And that's if nothing breaks. I agree with the 996 vs. 997. IMO the shifter and cables in a 996 Cup are the best Porsche has offered in the 996/997 generation if you want to shift for yourself. Before you jump on me for off topic or bragging or something I wanted to point out that I could not afford to maintain the F40. Also parts are quickly becoming OOP on 996 Cups just like F40s. And there are only about three good techs I'd let touch an F40. Reminds me of the comment of getting a good shop. It's not just a matter of finding one, the best shops are fully booked. I posted this because it sounded very similar to life with an F40. I am a big 996 platform fan so that's what I'd do but whatever you choose factor in all costs and then be safe and have fun. My wife doesn't like expensive surprises Best Josh PS my friends with Cups started by running them at private track days with a driver and engineer. It helps to get comfortable with the car.

spiller

Juan Lopez

Funny you mention shift cables. I have not replaced those yet (read "everything times out"). Expensive items (from my 08 997 GrandAm) tires, rotors, axles. You MUST take apart the transmission and inspect it before it goes boom and update to Guards improved gears. I have broken 3 or 4 sway bar blades but, I like Sebring.....

If you don't make mistakes, engines can go a long time.

Ken89911T

Thanks all. I'm OK with doing most of the maintenance work myself, like fluid changes, pads, rotors, etc. But what else needs to be done on a regular basis, excluding the obvious refresh items that time out? Defueling, emptying coolant?

Viperbob1

There is a post just a couple months ago with a pretty lengthy list of time out parts and duration to change. The question on the time out parts is how important is it to you not to have a parts failure for the weekend? If you lose a wheel bearing, your done but wont come off and most likely wont put you in a wall. So do you time and a half it? double the normal time out? Up to owner. It is a REAL RACE CAR. **** is going to happen. You have to decide "do you feel lucky" and let stuff break along the way and fix when broken. If you do, you may have many weekends with little track time..

Juan Lopez

I would have a pro team do a full go over of the car so you know you are starting from a solid platform. Check the condition of the fuel cell bladder.

You will have seen that after every session most Cups go in the air and the wheels come off. Why? you want to get under it and look at the usual suspects (hubs, rotors, calipers, sway bars, etc.) but most importantly, look for cracks, leaks and loose stuff. Invest in a real torque wrench (use it and store it properly), learn the values and test them. If the car has an underbody, it becomes a PITA. Do not neglect looking at the wheels not only for cracks but for leaks.

Do not rely on getting under the car in the paddock without safety stands (in a race on the hotpits it might be a different thing) and learn the proper way to drop a car from the airjacks. Another thing that must not be neglected are the regulators on the bottles.

As I said from my experience, broken sway bar blades, cracked rotors, cracked exhaust brackets need monitoring. Don't forget to clean the radiators and remember that you don't have a cooling fan on them.

MarcD147

So let me ask the rookie question: what is the proper way to drop the car from the air jacks?

Besides getting your toes clear.

guardsredcab

Thank you Marc for asking the obvious, but potentially embarrassing, question.

Juan, appreciate your comments and advice, especially in regards to torque wrenches. I just acquired a 991.1 cup which unfortunately, did not come with the standard torque wrench. I've been trying to research appropriate substitutes. I've been told that Snap On and GearWrench offer suitable tools, but haven't been able to verify that, especially given that for 991s, the wrench needs to be able to accurately perform in both clockwise and counterclockwise operation. Would appreciate your (or others') suggestions.

Thanks
Greg

spiller