for me it depends on the mood. fast down is not harm if you have air in the tires.
sometimes I use the button on the pass side jack and let it down slow. I have not seen any damage/difference twixt the two

 

ok just read this again.
for us....
we are just me and the driver.
We have lots of cars and about 5 race cars most vintage and then the 2009 cup which is a 997.1
We bought the car well sorted from a well known team with 9 hours on the engine and around 30 on the gearbox.
After we bought the car we ran it at sears for a test day to get driver used to it then pulled the box and had copans refresh.
It had the old gears and was updated to the latest specs (2012ish) cost was around 13k.

since then we have run the car in club racing. I lowered the shift lights a few hundred rpm to save wear on engine and such.
Also the Chassis has about 140 hrs on it according to the ecu
we have done brakes several times including rotors and calipers due to wear on rotors and uneven wear on brake pads (calipers)
engine had been dropped this year for a failed oil cooler but only the cooler got changed (around 3k)

we just installed Megaline Paddles and Motorsport M4 ABS this year and had gearbox serviced.
Ring and Pinion was found to have pitting so standard service plus ring and pinion for around 12k. (30ish hours on gearbox)

other than that tires for us are good for about 3 cycles but we have pushed to 6 for practice.

other things we got for the car. Snap on torque wrench that is two piece and about 5 feet long and 600 bucks or more
a paoli regulator and hose for the jacks 1500ish I think...was years ago.

I think that is about it.
We are not pro racing the car and have about 46 hrs on the engine and still feels strong and good.
I have not done leak down or compression testing as of yet.
There have been many people club racing them and saying 100 hrs on engine is no problem.

I figure after this season I will check comp and leak down to verify no issues and unless driver gets a bug up his *** for more power would suspect
we will go another season on what we have.

I have also changed the whole clutch once due to learning curve and replaced it again for this season with tilton parts for a piece on mind.
old one was still fine.

really at the end of the day its all about tires, brakes, oil, and fuel.

 

The Precision Instrument unit is nice. Reasonable price. Also I would invest in a used Paoli Air Gun. Even though your putting on the nuts at 360ish ft lbs, even with the correct Porsche lube it can take a LOT more to get them off. Customer when he first went out alone could not get nuts off without he and his girlfriend on end of Snap-on big torque wrench. The Paoli is nice with the 1" mandrel that fits the wheel nut socket with no step ups that lose torque.

 

Well, it looks really cool when you just drop it down hard and fast. However, you might have air on the tires and many other things but why would you subject the suspension, frame and all else to the added stress? If you are not racing pro, the extra seconds to bleed of slowly make a lot of sense. There are a lot of components which are stressed parts on a race car.

One of my crew members (part of a very well known and successful pro-team) cringes everytime he sees someone slamming the car when not in a race situation. He releases pressure very gradually by hand.

 

Torque wrenches, please remember that click type wrenches must be brought down to 0 after use. And yes, it is good practice to have them calibrated periodically.

IMHO, for our application, stay away from the fancy digital or dial type wrenches. Those are great for work in the shop. At the track, click type since they are sturdier.

 

I have the Snap-on TQR600E which doesn't need to be brought to zero after use and it goes to 600 ft-lbs. For removal I've found my Milwaukee 18v 1/2 drive impact takes them off fine and doesn't require an air or N2 source. As Juan says, no need for digital for this application. Check out CDI torque wrenches too, they are owned by Snap-on.

 

 

My understanding from the factory docs is to use anti-seize. I'm guessing the Wurth copper stuff should work, but I'll defer to those who have been doing this a while.

 

I use the permatex copper anti seize and put it on the face of the nut and the face of the washer.
I use just enough to not splatter everywhere at speed.

 

Thanks for the tip Bob. Hadn't heard of Precision Instruments. Price is quite a bit lower than Snap On (even cheaper on Amazon) and it has a 1" drive to avoid the step up. What I can't tell from their online description (support line closes at 3:30 pm!) is whether it can be used both clockwise and CCW, which would be necessary for the 991s. Do you happen to know?

C5D600F

1" Drive Split-beam Click Wrench

– Drive Size: 1"

– Drive Type: Detachable ratchet

– Capacity: 200-600 lb.ft.

– Increments: 10 lb.ft.

– Price: $ 600.00

 

Appreciate all the input. Very encouraging. But nobody has addressed the issue of draining fluids. I've seen references to defueling, coolant extraction, etc. What's this all about?

 

@guardsredcab - I suspect it's clockwise only.

 

We always empty the cells on all race cars (not only Cups) for storage. Fuel does funny things to bladders.......

 

And you would suspect wrong.... The Precision does CW and CCW. I use for all 991 Cups center locks. Albeit a little quirky, but works fast and fine....