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I saw 90A in the manual but we’ll see. I am not renting the tool I’m buying an image from someone on this forum. He will remote in and do the PSE for free. I’m not expecting much but it’s better than nothing. This way I can have the PIWIS for maintenance next year instead of spending 300ish on a scan tool. Maybe I’ll DIY the actual exhaust later.
90, 100... Marginal difference but still high amperage.
I saw 90A in the manual but we’ll see. I am not renting the tool I’m buying an image from someone on this forum. He will remote in and do the PSE for free. I’m not expecting much but it’s better than nothing. This way I can have the PIWIS for maintenance next year instead of spending 300ish on a scan tool. Maybe I’ll DIY the actual exhaust later.
Let us know how that goes. I have wondered how to get control of the exit valves on our 2019 Base 2WD. My dealer was not helpful when I asked that they program the car for PSE, but without adding the real PSE upgrade bits from Suncoast, or even their own parts dept. He asked the tech about it, and they thought it was a waste of their time (hours) and mine without the full upgrade PSE package from Porsche. Porsche Sport Exhaust - Panamera 971 (Base Models) : Suncoast Porsche Parts & Accessories (suncoastparts.com)
The valves already open on mine when I step on it... Doesnt PSE make the valves stay open full time? You have the 3.0L or 2.9TT?
Well, unless you are constantly at/above 4000 rpm, the valve doesn’t open below that. That’s how PSE programmed, doesn’t matter if you have 3.0L, 2.9L or V8. Mine is the base P4ST, so 3L engine.
Let us know how that goes. I have wondered how to get control of the exit valves on our 2019 Base 2WD. My dealer was not helpful when I asked that they program the car for PSE, but without adding the real PSE upgrade bits from Suncoast, or even their own parts dept. He asked the tech about it, and they thought it was a waste of their time (hours) and mine without the full upgrade PSE package from Porsche. Porsche Sport Exhaust - Panamera 971 (Base Models) : Suncoast Porsche Parts & Accessories (suncoastparts.com)
Does the base have valves? I don’t remember my base sounding any different when I stepped on it.
Does the base have valves? I don’t remember my base sounding any different when I stepped on it.
Base absolutely have valves. The muffler on top is the PSE muffler, the bottom one is the base muffler. No difference other than the exhaust tip being crimped together in the base model.
Base absolutely have valves. The muffler on top is the PSE muffler, the bottom one is the base muffler. No difference other than the exhaust tip being crimped together in the base model.
90, 100... Marginal difference but still high amperage.
I got the same setup from @rnlst_log myself. Formatted a cheap used laptop and the cable came in yesterday, but when we went to code, there were pages and pages of faults stored, most of them eletcrical. They all successful cleared except for these two. I tried a few times. He told me to drive it around for 20 minutes but it was late and I had a few beers watching Astros opening day so I plan to drive it some today. What did you use as your power supply if a trickle charger isnt enough? @rnlst_log told me my jumper cable set up would be fine, but I did hear some arcing when I connected to the posts under my hood before turning on the ignition, so I'm guessing thats where all the faults came from? Any insight? Perhaps the power should be connected after turning on the car?
I got the same setup from @rnlst_log myself. Formatted a cheap used laptop and the cable came in yesterday, but when we went to code, there were pages and pages of faults stored, most of them eletcrical. They all successful cleared except for these two. I tried a few times. He told me to drive it around for 20 minutes but it was late and I had a few beers watching Astros opening day so I plan to drive it some today. What did you use as your power supply if a trickle charger isnt enough? @rnlst_log told me my jumper cable set up would be fine, but I did hear some arcing when I connected to the posts under my hood before turning on the ignition, so I'm guessing thats where all the faults came from? Any insight? Perhaps the power should be connected after turning on the car?
What codes are left? It is possible a drive would move those codes from active to a stored fault that can be cleared.
You'll more often than not have an arc when connecting something with this level of potential energy delta.
After seeing your edit --
The dash board module one is problematic. I have seen a similar U112100 code in another VAG vehicle but was able to clear it since I was replacing a wire/harness.
I expect the VTS to stay there since that is the Vehicle Tracking System. This one requires a Porsche Car Connect subscription and activation (using the dealer's PIWIS connected to Porsche servers/Vodafone):
The ignition on power draw is influenced by the state of charge of your battery as well as the car's draw with ignition on. On my 2018 4S, the ignition on power draw is about 19 amps which includes some power being used to charge the battery. If your battery is discharged, more current will be directed to the battery increasing the demand on the power supply. I use a 25 amp 14.1v power supply starting with a normally charged battery. This is probably the minimum size power supply to use. https://powerwerx.com/ss30dv-desktop...pply-powerpole
So I got everything done over the weekend. @rnlst_log suggested that those codes might not even be there if we took PIWIS out of engineering mode. Once back in V mode, the same faults came up but were able to be cleared first try. He remotely coded in the PSE function as well as turned off auto stop start, which was super annoying. Reving the engine in park really sounds no different because the valves open either way, but driving around is significantly different. I hear more exhaust all the time with PSE on, rather than the car only commanding the valves open on heavy throttle or above 4K. I did use the 100 amp charger I referenced previously, and I hacked the clamps off one end of some cheap 6-gauge jumper cables to connect to the car. I had it set to about 13.6v, and the car really did draw a good load with ignition on as the voltage seemed to hover around 12.6 but the crept up to 13ish after a while and held there. I made sure to turn off all the exterior lights, AC and stereo. The picture of the PSE is before we coded out auto stop start.