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Ok no PIWIS system available to this indie. My techs friend is off doing the racing circuit supposivly. I am doubtful. I think they just don't want to fool with it anymore. I am stuck. Perhaps I can sell this thing as is. Lose all the equity I have...about 15k. Lesson learned. Dealer is of no help. I am retired and on fixed income...don't have a lot of capital to be sending car out of state for possible repair etc. Thanks for all of the input people shared here. I wish all well. But time has come to put this thing to rest.
Last edited by Olddragger; 05-24-2022 at 07:16 PM.
Olddragger: I did some more research for you, somebody in the Audi forums had a ""Pressure Too High" DTC code with his DL501, and he solved his problem with the below kit, which contains the three pressure control solenoids.
N472 Main Pressure Control
N436 Pressure Regulator for sub-gearbox 1
N440 Pressure Regulator for sub-gearbox 2
This kit also contains replacement PCB#1 and PCB#2, but I bet the problem is with one of the pressure solenoids.
Thanks Vag I sincerely appreciate your efforts. All those solenoids were replaced, actually all the solenoids were replaced. Yesterday new info became available. The indie shop did get a PIWIS system and it was identified that the high pressure fault was thrown at a certain temperature....the best he remembered somewhere between 165---185 F. The PIWIS system used had licensure through 2017. To fix my car licensure through 2022 is needed because within the 2022 software there is the ability to look deeper into the root cause of why this temperature is triggering this fault. The 2022 software also contains the ability to check if that temperture is set at what is is suppose to be. The updated PIWIS will be available next week. I have to admit...they may be slow but they are not giving up! He also provided insight of a thing that was happening in some old Mercedes model that had an abs sensor that if it didn't work it made the entire car not drivable. This sensor had a clock in it that was set to a time in which it made itself inoperatable! True! After much detective work independent shops found this and we're able to reset the clock. Before only the dealership could do it...dealerships did not even know they were resetting this clock, but when the factory authorized software did its thing, it automatically occurred. Isn't that wild! He said it is possible that Porsche has designed this kind of thing into the Macans transmissions. It is well known that manufactors do things to help insure that all repair occurs at the dealers. Now I have no proof of any of this! It is an interesting topic, it is possible and it certainly could be questioned? Why doesn't Porsche repair these transmissions? Yes I understand that they have contracts with ZF, etc etc. But, I can't believe that Porsche could accept that any Macan after warrenty that has transmission problems could be a throw away car? That is hard to accept but it kind of is true. There are many many Macans out there now that can be bought in the low 30's and even high 20's. What do the owners do if they have transmission problems? It is a real problem.
Forgot to add, with the PIWIS system my transmission was fully calibrated....handoff, clutch, distance sensors, etc was all done and there were no problems.
Last edited by Olddragger; 05-28-2022 at 02:08 PM.
https://tangentmotorsport.com/?p=260......look at this link. It has a wealth of information. It seems they discovered that the plastic the is encapsulating the wires over time becomes conductive and since these solenoids are very sensitive to voltage change...it seems it is only a matter of time before problems begin. What time frame that is....is not known.
I know I sound like a doom and gloom guy that is just full of complaints, but actually I am trying to learn enough about this so I will feel comfortable keeping my car after it is repaired. I don't mind fixing things....things always need repair sooner or later....so I am trying to educate myself enough to feel like a repair needed in the future can be more easily repaired. I have been without my car for over 4 months now. I have learned a lot. So I apologize if I come across just full of complaints.
Interesting article. Unlikely that a 280K resistance has any effect on solenoid wiring, but that photo of the control unit is bonkers:
Unencapsulated hybrids?! On what planet does a transmission need something that exotic? This looks like a board from a $100K oscilloscope, not a transmission. Somebody was handed a stupefyingly-large budget to build something extremely trivial.
This type of chip and wire construction is pretty common in automotive electronics in high-temperature applications. This type of construction, with chips soldered to an alumina substrate, which is then has a large area bond to the metal housing, provides a good thermal path, probably the most challenging aspect of this TCU design, where the metal chassis is bathed in hot ATF fluid.
Concerning the 280,000 Ohm resistance, that will have no impact on the operation at the 12V voltage that the solenoids are driven with, it is just an insignificant leakage current compared to the operating current through the much much lower solenoid coil resistance (under 500 Ohms).
I am far from being the expert in these matters although I am fairly well educated concerning heat and engines etc. I am sure there was a reason but I don't understand why they placed the tcu inside the transmission anyway? Heat is a serious enemy toward electronics. Mute point ....it doesn't change anything for my situation....unless I do decided to run a divorced cooler. Not only do these electronics have to take the heat they also have to deal with the forces of 7-8 liters of fluid being tossed around. What do y'all think about overfilling?
The trend has always been to integrate the electronics with the mechanical assemblies, saves money, saves weight, rather than more wire harnessing and finding a separate remote location (saves space) for the control module. The ABS unit also has integrated control electronics, so does the electric Power Steering rack. The windshield wiper motor often has integrated electronics, so does each power window motor. The downside of all this is that the control electronics are often subjected to harsher environments, especially temperature.
All about the bottom line and the price to pay for " new and improved" I suppose.
.It would be very cool to have a 7 speed manual, roll up indows , key unlock and ignition, manual seats, no traction or dsc, no electronic climate controls, no start and go features, alarms, no sunroof, dipstick instead of electronic monitoring, no power vectoring, less than 25 microprocessors, no service due, or battery registration and all the other unnecessary stuff to fluff up a good design , with a 100K miles , 10 year warrenty. Heck I would pay MORE for a Macan like that.
The trend has always been to integrate the electronics with the mechanical assemblies, saves money, saves weight, rather than more wire harnessing and finding a separate remote location (saves space) for the control module. The ABS unit also has integrated control electronics, so does the electric Power Steering rack. The windshield wiper motor often has integrated electronics, so does each power window motor. The downside of all this is that the control electronics are often subjected to harsher environments, especially temperature.
What would save money is using off-the-shelf parts with automotive temperature specs in assemblies that don't need to operate in contact with hot ATF, and using higher voltages to save weight on wiring. But I don't work in this business. Probably a good thing...
I was backing up on an incline fighting with autohold (apparently Porsche engineers never tested this in real life as the whole experience is a nightmare) and the car has thrown the error: Possible no R gear. I restarted the car and everything seem fine. Hooked up PIWIS and the error is P17D600 - Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch A Range/Performance.
Mechatronic unit has already been replaced (jerking on downshift). I had this error around 18 month when I was slowly doing a u-turn. Took it to dealership and they found nothing. The transmission seems to work fine other than that.
Should I treat is as electronic gremlin or my PDK is on the way out?
Sorry to say but you do have a problem. If you have a warrenty take it to the dealer now so a case can be opened. If you found that code with your PIWIS they should have also. I f not mistaken it is a high pressure fault associated with clutch one. If you were fighting the hill hold button trying to back up an incline.....it is possible that the clutches got hot. It sounds like you have been through this before...so you are familiar with symptoms. This high pressure fault is what I have been trying to repair...thought I had but after my transmission gets to a certain temperature it comes back. Perhaps fresh fluid with a washout plus new filters can make yours right? Maybe not...but it is worth a try. Let us know what happens
05-24-2022, 07:15 PM
