When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After viewing a video and still photos of folks removing a gazillion fasteners and two plastic-barb plugs that secure the lower valance panel on their Macan in order to drain the oil, I decided to suck the oil out instead. It's a super fast and clean operation that eliminates you from having to get underneath the car for any reason.
Following are two pics showing the Mityvac extractor that I used. As you know, there is no dipstick on the Macan engine, but the tube is still there with a plug in place of the dipstick. The plug can easily be removed with a slight twist and upward pull. Then simply insert one of the appropriately sized tubes that comes with the Miytvac extractor down the dipstick tube and connect the other end to the Mytivac. Next connect a compressed air source to the Mytivac and watch the oil being sucked out in less than three minutes. Note it speeds up the process if the oil is warm, ~150F or so.
Try it; I think you'll agree that it's the fastest and easiest way to change the oil on a Macan!
Jason
Last edited by BOPE; 02-10-2020 at 11:40 AM.
Reason: delete repeated word
I used this method on my Golf R and a friends S4 many times. The Audi service advisor told this is how it's done there too.
There are arguments that it leaves a small amount of dirty oil in the pan but I believe it's insignificant. Lots to read about the method on Vortex. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...-Oil-extractor
Last edited by Aldo; 02-09-2020 at 08:49 PM.
Reason: Added link
Yes, that is how the oil is removed at a local Audi dealer here in Greater Boston. There is no possibility of an argument over a "leaking" drain plug. Some Mercedes (like our 2014 C-class) also use this method with a special dipstick tube adapter. No ramps, splash pan removal, or spilled oil.
It's not the little bit of dirty oil left in the pan that would be my concern with this method, but rather the junk that ends up sitting on the bottom of the pan. If you've ever pulled an oil pan you know what I'm talking about. Opening the plug at the bottom gets this stuff into the stream that comes out the drain plug hole, whereas extracting from the top with the hose in one place likely does not do as good a job with that. The dealers and quick oil change places do it with the extractor because it's faster and they can move more vehicles through which equals more $s as I doubt they charge less even though it's faster.
If the oil is fully warmed up, the "junk" would be in suspension and be evacuated through the tube. Don't forget, you have an oil filter to remove "junk".
Used this method on my BMW 325. The benefit is after a long drive, and really getting the car up to temp, it only takes 5 minutes to start draining oil.
I doubt much settling happens in that time, and the oil flows out pretty quick at that temp. The first time I did this, I removed the drain plug to verify how much remained. It was about 1 cup.
I still did a conventional drain plug about every third time. Wanted to look for junk on the magnetic drain plug.
For newer cars with plastic / non magnetic drain plugs, even that is not necessary.
I still did a conventional drain plug about every third time. Wanted to look for junk on the magnetic drain plug.
For newer cars with plastic / non magnetic drain plugs, even that is not necessary.
Good point about periodically looking for ferrous bits on the drain plug for those engines with magnetic drain plugs.
I imagine that most marine engines installed in cabin cruisers use some sort of extraction method to remove the oil from their crankcase, owing to minimal clearance between sump and hull.
Regarding leaving some oil in the sump using the extraction method, I removed ~5.75 quarts per the gauge on the side of the Mytivac. I don't, however, know the "factory" spec for the 2.0L Macan engine, but have heard numbers in the range of 5.5 quarts. Therefore I feel confident I removed about as much oil by extracting as I could have by draining.
Moreover, my 991.2 probably contains nearly a quart or so of residual dirty oil that resides in the oil lines and cooler that con not easily be drained. My guess is that the Macan has similar areas of trapped oil.
Prior to finding out to my utter disbelief that the so called "skid plate" is a piece of cheap plastic, I had been ready to perform the same access panel method as in my RS5. Was really looking forward to using my plasma cutter again!
As it is since it's a useless weight saving contraption that will not save you off road, I'll cut out an access panel to change the oil via the proven and free method called "gravity". And add a Fumoto valve and do away with the crush washers. And another reason I don't take my vehicles to a dealer as it seems that's how they do it.
siberian
The best long distance runners eat raw meat, run naked and sleep in the snow
Prior to finding out to my utter disbelief that the so called "skid plate" is a piece of cheap plastic, ...
That "cheap piece of plastic" is not meant to be a skid plate. Instead, it's purpose is to reduce air turbulence under the vehicle in an effort to improve fuel economy. But I assume you knew that.
If I buy an SUV I expect to find, among many things, a skid plate and a full spare tire (alas...).
I'm not going to race an SUV (not remotely interested in a COBB or bling - it's an SUV folks you want to race? Get a 911 or a Hemi), but I do expect engine protection and not increase my mpg by 1/100th of a mile under controlled conditions by putting a plastic sheet to funnel wind as well as a full spare. I'm not remotely interested in knowing that adding 50 or 60 pounds will take away 1/10 of an mpg. Safety is my primary concern not some statistic under controlled condition that you could never replicate.
I had the same issue with the Touareg where they put some cardboard under there. Had a steel plate made and threw out the cardboard and the scrapes on the bottom of it are proof that if you have an SUV and use it (not to crawl to the mall) but in off road conditions and specifically where I live it's not mpg that you're even remotely interested in but not ripping your oil or tranny pan. Yes, I realize I'm the 1/10th of 1% of the Macan owners but that's why I bought this vehicle rather than a Toyota FJ or similar.
siberian
The best long distance runners eat raw meat, run naked and sleep in the snow
If I buy an SUV I expect to find, among many things, a skid plate and a full spare tire (alas...).
I'm not going to race an SUV (not remotely interested in a COBB or bling - it's an SUV folks you want to race? Get a 911 or a Hemi), but I do expect engine protection and not increase my mpg by 1/100th of a mile under controlled conditions by putting a plastic sheet to funnel wind as well as a full spare. I'm not remotely interested in knowing that adding 50 or 60 pounds will take away 1/10 of an mpg. Safety is my primary concern not some statistic under controlled condition that you could never replicate.
I had the same issue with the Touareg where they put some cardboard under there. Had a steel plate made and threw out the cardboard and the scrapes on the bottom of it are proof that if you have an SUV and use it (not to crawl to the mall) but in off road conditions and specifically where I live it's not mpg that you're even remotely interested in but not ripping your oil or tranny pan. Yes, I realize I'm the 1/10th of 1% of the Macan owners but that's why I bought this vehicle rather than a Toyota FJ or similar.
siberian
The best long distance runners eat raw meat, run naked and sleep in the snow
The Macan isn't an off road vehicle - it was made as you put it to "crawl to the mall" - but you bought it so its your right to modify it. If it was my vehicle, I'd locate the drain plug and use a hole saw to cut through the plastic cover and access the drain plug that way. Then I'd install a push in rubber cover to keep the air and dirt out and be on my way.
That said, I bought it for my wife for the technology (lights, safety, AWD, air suspension...) as her eyesight etc. are not what they were and there was a limit as to what I could retrofit to her 2008 V6 Touareg (HID's, heated steering wheel, blind spot monitoring...). Not including a full spare under the guise of saving 50 pounds is a safety problem not something to pin a medal because you saved 1/10th of a mpg, the air or turbulence factor again is playing with metrics you will never be able to either reproduce or be remotely concerned about vs the potential damage.
Yep, most of the users are probably mall crawlers
siberian
The best long distance runners eat raw meat, run naked and sleep in the snow
When I opened the panels the on my macan turbo (pre facelift), the material used in n the plastic covers under the car look like they do have an acoustic reason besides all other reasons. They have a layer of acoustic damping material and parts of it (at least in my car) have a metallic heat shield inside to protect the material. Based on what you folks said, here would be my understanding of the use cases of the cover:
- aerodynamics (an interesting one. Hadn’t thought of it before this thread)
- sound proofing material for further reducing road noise
- maybe reducing the exterior sound from engine/exhaust pipes (dominating it by the sound out of the top of the muffler)
- splash proofing it to some extent (my macan has less rust than any other car I have had, particularly within the covered sections)
- some physical protection
My day job relates to reducing engine and road noise for vehicle manufacturers. Macan is brilliant in that department. Ultra low road noise in cabin for a SUV. They didn’t cheap out for sure. I am assuming the material in foot wells, under body, etc are a part of a comprehensive acoustic design.
one thing I don’t understand is this: given how well they have covered the underbody in the cat/flex pipe region, I wonder how they cool the exhaust down. We put cars on dyno all daylong at work for measurement purposes and one of the challenges is cooling the exhaust down in absence of natural air flow around the exhaust. We put sensors and IR cameras on the exhaust and cat and have to stop measurements multiple time during the day and wait for exhaust to cool down. No clue how they are managing the heat…
02-09-2020, 04:23 PM
Sucking the Oil from a 2.0l, 2020 Macan
