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Old 04-24-2016 | 02:17 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by ShakeNBake
I'm sure we can trust those stats are based on scientific method and unbiased motives.
Jacy you are a very funny guy.
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Old 05-17-2016 | 09:31 PM
  #62  
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Any updates? Gonna need new pads after this weekend. Lots of dissension. I used the RS 29 front, 19 rear on my previous GT3 and RS. Plenty of squeal on the street but so do most street pads so I just ignored it. Rotors would spider after the first weekend so I wouldn't mind a pad that is easier on rotors. Stopping power on the street was always fine which was more important. Considering other options too though.

Last edited by johnr265; 05-17-2016 at 09:52 PM.
Old 05-17-2016 | 09:45 PM
  #63  
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PFC 11 and Ferodo DS1.11 seem to be the current favorites, the PFCs being basically silent on the road at the cost of some track bite and release smoothness, with the Ferodos being an improvement on those track behaviors at the cost of making some noise, though apparently not so much that they wouldn't be usable for a car that sees a lot of street miles.
Old 05-17-2016 | 10:50 PM
  #64  
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My Ferodos are on order with Clark as of yesterday! I look forward to dropping them on Roscoe soon.
Old 05-17-2016 | 11:05 PM
  #65  
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For those that like the RE10s I noticed that when you go to the link: http://www.racetechnologies.com/brake-pad-comparison and click on "race", then click RE10 vs pagid 19/29 you get a chart that looks very similar. So I'm curious is the RE10 a pad that is just a bit better than the pagid RS29s?

Also the newest pagid RSL1 pad is mainly available for race teams. I still think braking is really a personal preference and regardless what people say it's hardly the same for others.
Old 05-17-2016 | 11:27 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ML///
For those that like the RE10s I noticed that when you go to the link: http://www.racetechnologies.com/brake-pad-comparison and click on "race", then click RE10 vs pagid 19/29 you get a chart that looks very similar. So I'm curious is the RE10 a pad that is just a bit better than the pagid RS29s?

Also the newest pagid RSL1 pad is mainly available for race teams. I still think braking is really a personal preference and regardless what people say it's hardly the same for others.
The RE10's are quieter on the street than the Pagid Yellows and I hear they maintain their excellent track performance all the way to their backing plates (which takes forever to reach), while the Pagids really work best at over half thickness.
Old 05-17-2016 | 11:41 PM
  #67  
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For the RS29s when they reach roughly the same thickness as the backing plate I noticed the metal wear bars and hold the pad material in place start to appear through the pad material. Perhaps its this feature that people don't like. Unfortunately the RE10 pad is not for the ST40 kit, therefore it can never be tested by me.
Old 05-18-2016 | 09:00 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by ML///
Also the newest pagid RSL1 pad is mainly available for race teams.
The new Pagid RSL and RST compounds are available to everyone. RSL1 front and RS29 compound rear has proven to be very popular.

http://www.paragon-products.com/U492...4924-pagid.htm

http://www.paragon-products.com/Pagi...id%20u4925.htm
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Old 05-18-2016 | 02:01 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by ML///
For those that like the RE10s I noticed that when you go to the link: http://www.racetechnologies.com/brake-pad-comparison and click on "race", then click RE10 vs pagid 19/29 you get a chart that looks very similar. So I'm curious is the RE10 a pad that is just a bit better than the pagid RS29s?

Also the newest pagid RSL1 pad is mainly available for race teams. I still think braking is really a personal preference and regardless what people say it's hardly the same for others.


Hello E46 M3 brother, hehe.



Originally Posted by GrantG
The RE10's are quieter on the street than the Pagid Yellows and I hear they maintain their excellent track performance all the way to their backing plates (which takes forever to reach), while the Pagids really work best at over half thickness.
Absolute correct on all accounts!

We've utilized other compounds where unfortunately performance drastically plummeted as wear progressed. The RE10 truly proved its monetary value by being able to fully be taken advantage of from beginning to end.

Old 05-18-2016 | 03:39 PM
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Default 991GT3/981 GT4 brake pads

We sell PFC, Ferodo, RT and Pagid. Based upon our sales and customers comments Ferodo DS1.11 is currently the most popular. RT RE10 is popular among the few that are using....but they are very expensive. Would like to see a
cost benefit analysis of the RE10 vs PFC 11 and Ferodo DS1.11. RT does a poor job promoting the virtues of the RE10 and explaining why this pad is worth this kind of money. From what some of the users tell me the initial bite is not that spectacular but they last forever.
Ferodo has come up with a compound (DSuno) now available in the GT3/GT4 pad shape. More initial bite than the DS1.11 but it goes away faster.
Ferodo http://www.apexperformance.net/Ferod...CHE_c_156.html
PFC http://www.apexperformance.net/PFC--PORSCHE_c_157.html
RT http://www.apexperformance.net/RT-RE...CHE_c_224.html
Old 05-18-2016 | 05:46 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Clark-ApexPerformance
RT does a poor job promoting the virtues of the RE10 and explaining why this pad is worth this kind of money. From what some of the users tell me the initial bite is not that spectacular but they last forever[/url]
Once bedded properly, the initial bite is very good too, imo. Vastly better than stock pads for instance...
Old 07-06-2016 | 02:43 PM
  #72  
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Been running the RE10's since April and have 8 hours of track time on them and a 2,500 street miles. About 80% of the pad material remains. These are the only pads I have run on the track on the GT4 so I don't have a basis for comparison to other pads. In any case these seem to be lasting a very long time. Very happy with the on-track performance. Initial bite is fine, although not as strong as a aggressive sprint pad. Not much squeal unless it is a cold morning and the brakes are not warmed up, so fine on the street.

I bought a second set, but I looks like it will take another ~15 track days to get to the backing plates, so it looks like it will be next year before I need to replace (would love to get another 15 track days in this season, but.......).
Old 07-06-2016 | 05:33 PM
  #73  
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As expected, my front pads are wearing much more quickly than the rears. Is there any downside to just replacing the fronts with a more aggressive compound (like the RE10 or DS1.11)?
Old 07-06-2016 | 07:57 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by DeerHunter
As expected, my front pads are wearing much more quickly than the rears. Is there any downside to just replacing the fronts with a more aggressive compound (like the RE10 or DS1.11)?
You don't want to change the mechanical bias F/R (front wheel stopping with more relative brake than rear wheels). The car will auto-balance once into ABS, but you will experience less braking performance and, worst case, instability. Unless you are trying to move the bias, I would not change the stock bias - than being said, temps have a lot to do with actual friction level of the pad, so you are messing with mechanical bias even with the same compound.

You will be about 2:1 or 3:1 in wear ratios F/R depending on if you run with stability on/off.
Old 07-07-2016 | 02:18 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by DeerHunter
As expected, my front pads are wearing much more quickly than the rears. Is there any downside to just replacing the fronts with a more aggressive compound (like the RE10 or DS1.11)?
What shake and bake said is correct.

I'm assuming you'd like to replace the fronts before the rears to get some life out of the rears. If you're only on the street I can see this being marginally "okay." The reason is that I think you're going more aggressive on the front, so, until you replace the rear too, you'll just use the front brakes more due to the high coefficient of friction in the front. Therefore you'll push into corners, which might feel annoying, but shouldn't be too dangerous. Conversely, if you replaced the rears and not the fronts, you'd be worse off because you could lock the rears. Best to replace front and rear if tracking though.


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