jphughan

Yeah, I settled on my alignment specs partly based on talking to you about this at CotA. Good to know -3 is still streetable, but I do enough miles that the inside wear might become an issue at that point, and if the outsides STILL wear quickly, then there's not much point to that. Sure maybe it'll handle a bit better, but I'm already pretty happy with my current setup, at least enough that I figure I need to learn to drive what I've got before I keep fiddling with it. By the way, were you able to hit -3 front without getting the aftermarket tie rod ends?

Yes, the Cup 2s have a triple-compound design with the softest stuff way on the outside edge, which means faster outside wear is to some degree inevitable. As for driving style, BRNGT4's thread about the pro driver saying to trail brake deeper to rotate the car more upfront rather than getting on the power before full rotation and pushing wide on exit might help with the plowing tendency and therefore the outside wear. I found myself trail braking more in this car naturally, so it was nice to see that I'm apparently on the right track (so to speak ). Otherwise yeah I too may need to look into something like RE-71Rs, especially if the rumors about them being available in stock GT4 sizes are true since I'm not too keen on buying a set of 19" wheels.

RocketGuy3

Not to derail the thread, but I just read a bit more of the OP, and have to say I find it interesting that you could have such bad experiences with a dealer and *still* be in support of non-refundable deposits...

Either way, I'll be keeping tabs on this thread, looks like some good and interesting info/discussions in here.

Spyerx

It would be interesting to evaluate your driving style...

Setup and alignment will address to a certain point, but so will driving style.

There is a driver here (that will remain nameless! ) who has similar tire wear. A very experienced chassis engineer (like has done chassis engineering for some very famous race teams/racers) looked at his tires and wear pattern/alignment - and the comment was: Throwing the car into corners, inducing understeer, more steering angle and washing out the front end, resulting is massive outside tire wear.

So question: is there a way to induce more rotation earlier to carry more speed through the corner and put less stress/scrub on the front tires.

I'd be interested to see Dave Potter's front tires.... momentum driver.

mrd_spy

yes run rear ARB hard.
I have ran mine hard from pick up.

myBailey07

Yes, quite a few that have been mentioned here... Swaybar adjustments (Softer in front than back), trail braking deeper, and... timing of lift of throttle, left foot braking, not instinctively adding more steering when front push, opening steering fractionally sooner if pushing at/after apex etc, hooking your inside wheel on a pothole on corner entry etc...

For anyone tracking these beyond just a few days here and there, there is a sticky of over 150 pages on here that goes into extensive depth on how to adjust driving style for understeering/oversteering and many other driving style items. It is worth a read...can explain it a lot better than most of us as it is answered by pro coaches.

https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...the-coach.html

myBailey07

I still think the -2.5/-2 that you have is best combo alignment. Car handles great at this point on track and is barely noticeable on street. And as you say, going beyond will eat inside on street. I talked to ShakeNBake at COTA and he had -3 at that point, was still seeing outside wear and was going to go to -3.5, albeit on R7's. So, I think for those of us that have dual cars we'll just have to accept that these cars probably like more camber than we can do on street and learn how to manage tire wear better.

Yes, I have aftermarket tie rod ends up front. I bought them up front not knowing any better and have no idea whether I needed them to get to -3 or not

orthojoe

I don't think they do anything substantial performance wise. The reason they are used is because when you switch from a rubber thrust arm bushing to an adjustable solid one, preload gets transferred to the next rubber bushing, which is the LCA end. You don't want preload. That will cause premature wear and other issues. As far as monoball wear intervals, I'm not exactly sure. My spyder had LCA monoballs as well and they never had any issues after years with noise or clunking which you will eventually get with wear.

Just because there are dealers out there who are scum doesn't mean we need to 'stick it' to all of them and assume they are all bad. Dealers aren't the only people screwing us. There are lots of buyers (or wanna be/pretend buyers) out there screwing us too. I'm not trying to protect the dealer, I'm trying to protect legit buyers from profiteers and freeloaders.

Very true, and I've wondered. However, take a look at my video. I THINK I'm driving fairly smoothly. I don't see any problems with going in too hot and plowing through corners. Please someone correct me if you disagree. I think this wear issue has a lot to do with Thunderhill as a track.

Martini racer

2:01 is a very descent time for this track. great job

RocketGuy3

Just because there are some profiteers and freeloaders doesn't mean we should stick it to legit buyers who run into legit financial troubles... or even those who change their mind.

I'd much rather stick it to the occasional dealer, who are far more likely to be able to deal with the risk involved.

orthojoe

Thanks, man!

True, but we all know many 'financial issues' are either lies or pure stupidity. I would hope human decency would make exceptions to someone who really is in dire straights. I guarantee you that the gt4 allocation problem would not be as bad if you weeded out all the BS.

9972RS

What size are these front shims? Can these be fitted to oem out control arms w/o lengthening the bolts?


Thanks

Front tarett cup monoball with shims:

ML///

Joe, since I have never driven Thill, I'm wondering in those areas where you're covering the brakes is it necessary? I noticed a few spots where the brakes are applied but not at the max and hover around 25-50%. Would you be able to achieve the same deceleration by a brief lift off max throttle and letting the car's drag slow you down (plus engine braking)?

I'm just curious as I noticed some areas of braking but it wasn't that hard. The video looks great.

On a separate question, how did you sync the two videos? Is that a program that you used, or is it just patience in aligning the videos to the data?

orthojoe

The cup monoball end has one large shim built into the unit. I don't know what the smaller 2 shims are since I didn't do the alignment. The shims work with the oem lca. Oem lca may have a limit before the bolts are too short. At least on the gt3, with the standard monoball I ran out of threads at -2.7. With these cup monoballs you can go beyond that because of the longer bolts

orthojoe

You are probably referring to T6 and T8. In low hp cars t6 can be done with just a lift and t8 can be taken flat. I think a light tap is still needed for the GT4, though, at least on cup2 tires.

My GoPro remote starts the cameras at the same time, but aren't always totally synced, so I use Adobe premier elements to join the video and fix and sync issues.

morjo02

Congrats and good luck with the GT4