Originally Posted by matttheboatman

Why?

Originally Posted by matttheboatman

Why?

To the original poster, why would you change Porsche's engineered and uber-tested tires and wheels for 18" or 19" wheels?

It cost more, not less.

Did not the invention of the street-able Race tire makes the switch back and forth obsolete?

Here is how I figure...

19" tires in and of themselves are not substantially less expensive, but I do understand there are sticky tires which are (currently) only offered in 19" tires which are substantially less expensive.

The 20" OEM Cup 2s are about $2,000, whereas good street-able 19" tires or slicks could cost only $1,300 for set.

But, the track rims cost too. New 19” rims will cost about $4,000 for custom forged wheels. Or, about $2,000 for decent off-the-shelf rims (with some compromise in quality/weight/and diameter).

Assuming I’m running 4 or 5 track weekends & 2,500 street miles per year, I’ll be changing my expensive Cup 2s every year. Here is how the math works out:

If I stay with OEM:
Year 1………………….$2.500
Year 2………………… $2,500
Year 3 …………………$2,500
Year 4 ……………… $2,500
Total Outflow………….$10,000 This is an expensive option.

Vs.

Buy a set of track tires and Wheels:
Year 1
Change my OEM 20" to street Michelin Sport Pilot…..... $1,300
Buy track rims and slicks…………………………………………. $4,000
Total Year 1………………………………………………………………… $5,300
Year 2 …………………………………………………………………….. $1,300
Year 3 …………………………………………………………………….. $1,300
Year 4 …………………………………………………………………….. $1,300
Plus, replace the 20” street MSPs…………………………….. $1,300
Total Outflow…………………………………………………………….. $10,500

This is an even more expensive option.

Of course, in terms of absolute performance, slicks on 19” wheels would be quicker than street-able 20” tires. But, how much quicker? Is it worth the hassle of buying / storing / transporting /and changing wheels every time. And what about the fact that slicks specifically are not allowed under the Porsche’s operating manual and warranty?

I think the math makes a very good case for staying with the extreme performance multi-purpose street/race OEM 20" wheels and tires.

Flame suit on, what say you?

Originally Posted by ShakeNBake

I don't think that's a GT4. Those are 997 calipers, those are not GT4 lights, and not GT4 uprights on the rear. I think it's a hacked together to fit a GT4 class.

Originally Posted by Rick DeMan

All GT4 Components, except front calipers that are from the 997 GT3 Cup, direct bolt on to the GT4 upright in order to clear 18" wheels for Continental Tire rules. Factory GT4 uprights.

And by NO means Hacked together

Originally Posted by Rick DeMan

All GT4 Components, except front calipers that are from the 997 GT3 Cup, direct bolt on to the GT4 upright in order to clear 18" wheels for Continental Tire rules. Factory GT4 uprights.

And by NO means Hacked together

Originally Posted by Rick DeMan

All GT4 Components, except front calipers that are from the 997 GT3 Cup, direct bolt on to the GT4 upright in order to clear 18" wheels for Continental Tire rules. Factory GT4 uprights.

And by NO means Hacked together

Originally Posted by Rick DeMan

All GT4 Components, except front calipers that are from the 997 GT3 Cup, direct bolt on to the GT4 upright in order to clear 18" wheels for Continental Tire rules. Factory GT4 uprights.

And by NO means Hacked together

Originally Posted by ShakeNBake

My apologies - hacked was a bad choice of words. I mean parted together - it's not a factory GT4. Given that the factory GT4 is a parts bin car...what you did seems logical.

How did you get an 18" wheel to fit on the rear is basically what everyone is asking. I don't see how it could be done with a factory street upright in the rear.

Originally Posted by ExMB

And the rear?

Originally Posted by James-GMG

Rick,

Very cool to see you build a GT4 for CSCT vs the Clubsports....you get to run the old school H Pattern....will be fun to watch and compare your cars vs the CJ Willson/Bodymotion/Etc Clubsport versions.......good luck to you and the team!