ProCoach

Absolutely! Kudos to AiM Sports and Roger for getting the message out.

I will say that EVERY install and personal interaction between an owner and their system is different, each user has different wants, needs and challenges to figure out how to MAKE THEIR SYSTEM MOST USABLE TO THEM.

THAT is why it's really important to have a personal relationship with someone experienced and knowledgable who can be emailed, texted or called to answer those questions.

I have found that once the hardware is configured and once the software profile is built (which can and does often change as users become more curious and confident in their ability to harvest information), the process is simplified and you can get the info you need quickly and easily.

Matt Romanowski

Agreed on all fronts, especially the bold. I think just about everybody has my email and cell number!

James Colburn has also done some nice videos at http://www.jamescolborn.com/aim-data-analysis/

ProCoach

It is a pleasure to be part of the great resources available to Rennlisters interested in purchasing, installing, configuring, troubleshooting and using these great tools!

Matt Romanowski

No doubt. It's pretty cool that Rennlist has become one of the best resources for AiM info on the internet! With you, Jerry, myself, and a really strong user base, there is so much info here.

Mahler9th

An update and a request for information as I continue my installation...

A week or so ago I drove my car on the street and attempted the AIM gear calculation procedure. I tried to use the best advice from the two experts here (Peter and Matt). I installed a switch so I could kill the RPM signal to the EVO4 when I came to a stop (equivalent to Peter's suggestion of stalling the engine, but much easier on my drivetrain). As I noted earlier, it did not seem to work.

I drove my race car on the street again Sunday afternoon. This time, the Gdash displayed gear position, and it did so pretty accurately. That is, when I rowed up and down through the gears (not at racing speeds) the Gdash displayed the proper gear each time. So somehow it worked. Not sure how.

I still have a nagging issue with respect to throttle position.

As I stated earlier, I am tapping into the 0 to +5 VDC signal my TPS sends to my Haltech EFI. No issues with noise or signal integrity on either side.

Per advice I received here, I set up the TPS channel in Race Studio 2 as a zero based potentiometer. With units of % (0 at low limit, 100% at high limit). I did this, as I understand it, to be able to use the AIM configuration menu to set the range of my throttle position. I used the calibration "wizard" to set these values.

Well, what I see on the dash and in the data makes no sense to me. Like numbers from -2 to 150.

Here is what I am trying to do:

Use the TPS voltage signal to log throttle position. I think my zero throttle point should be at some voltage (>0 VDC; 0%) at idle. I think my max point should be some voltage (+ 5 VDC; 100%). This seems like it should be a simple linear signal between those two limits.

When I use a product like Race Render or Smartycam, I want to be able to see the throttle position on a percentage basis, based on my configuration settings for the logging.

This should be one of the simplest and fundamental things to set up, yet it is not.

Any help appreciated.

ProCoach

On the gear calc, the EVO4 did the calculation and you're done.

On the throttle, you are ahead of yourself. You assume that you are using the TOTAL range of the voltage divided and assigning arbitrary values to that range.

Instead, you must use the calibration wizard present in the home page of Race Studio 2. If the sensor is set to the proper type in the configuration, your next step is to calibrate the sensor. With the system powered up, connect to the EVO4 and power up the car but do not start it. Select Device Calibration and the dialog box will open. There should be three accelerometers that can be selected for calibration or, you can "Auto Calibrate All" and press OK.

If the TPS is set properly (I can't remember if it's zero based, I don't think so but I am not in a place where I can look), the TPS calibration window will be listed in the lower half of the dialog box. When it is, you can select "calibrate" and another window will open, asking you to enable the "high" value by fully depressing the throttle and selecting the Set button to the right of it, then release the throttle to rest position and press the button next to the "low" value.

Then select ok, then transmit, IIRC.

This uses the actual value from the sensor instead of your guess...

Mahler9th

That's exactly what I have done 5-6 times. What is displayed and logged is nevertheless nonsensical.

I can use the online capability after the cal is done and I still see these nonsensical numbers as I move the pot through its range. Makes no sens to me.

ProCoach

Do you see millivolts as raw values?

You're saying that there is NO linear progression of those numbers, correct?

Mahler9th

Yes I see millivolts when online. As I move the throttle pot through its range, I see the mV's go from a number near zero (as expected) to +5 VDC. (at full throttle).

This has nothing to do with piggybacking or signal integrity. It has everything to do with poor AIM documentation and user interface.

I should not have to buy an AIM pot to get this to work. Its a simple ~0 to +5 VDC signal that corresponds to a range of 0% throttle applied to 100% throttle applied.

Matt Romanowski

You don't have to buy an AiM sensor to make this work.

First, how do you have it wired? Then, do you have any way to view what the sensor is sending to your ECU? That will help us figure out where the problem lies. Do the mV readings read ok or are they jumping all over?

Mahler9th

The wiring diagram is pretty simple. I simply connected a second wire from the TPS voltage signal that also goes to Haltech EFI.

Haltech provides his own reference voltage to his own pot., and a wire comes back with the throttle position signal. Nominally 0 to +5 VDC.

The second wire is connected to the EVO4 logger following AIM's instructions.

The channel configuration is set for a zero-based potentiometer, with units of per cent and a range of 0 to 100%.

I cannot understand the language in the AIM calibration window, but try to follow the implied steps. Go to 100% throttle, press the button labeled "Get Raw Value." Then let it return to zero throttle applied (idle), and press the button for the lower limit. I have no idea what all of the other mumbo jumbo in this calibration window is or how it is to be used.

When I look online at the TPS channel I see 1472 mV at zero throttle applied, and 5000mV when 100% throttle is applied. The dash reads something like 2 to 150, I suppose in percent, but no units are given.

See pictures.

Mahler9th

And to reiterate, I only get the choice to "calibrate" the TPS if I choose "zero based potentiometer" in the channel set up.

None of this is in any documentation or video I have found.

ProCoach

Change the maximum value in the calibration procedure from 151 (or whatever) to 100 and click "Ok" then send.

You must complete step 3 of the procedure.

Mahler9th

Thanks,will give that a try.

The language on that calibration window is baffling to me. I don't understand the language of that third step.

Is there a written procedure or video on this? Or some place that translates Italian engineer's English to American EE English? Or???

I also don't understand what the raw data is in that calibration window. If those numbers are intending to show what EVO4 sees in mV, then I'd think they'd match what I see when online. But they don't.

Matt Romanowski

This is done as a zero based sensor.

The third step is to click ok. The calibration procedure is to put the throttle pedal to the floor, click get high position, let the throttle return to it's closed position and click get low value, then click ok. The numbers you enter will be 0 for the low and 100 for the high (they are the percent).

If this still produces problems, then you may have either a ground issue, a reference voltage issue, or something else.

This is for a steering sensor, but it's a similar process https://vimeo.com/30217519

Also, I'm not sure how your ECU is setup, but you should really want it to read something under 5000 mV at full throttle in case you have any over travel.