My Menzerna Polishing Plan?
#1
My Menzerna Polishing Plan?
Hey Guys,
I have a black '95 993 that has a somewhat dull/hazy finish w/ fine swirls.
I've heard great raves about Menzerna polishes and I just love the fact it's a German product.
After proper clay and wash,
My plan is to Porter-Cable first using Menzerna SIP PO83 with an orange LC pad.
Then PO85RD or 106FF(Nano) with a black LC pad. Or should I use a white?
Next, I'll apply a Menzrna Glaze also with a Black pad, followed by P21S wax.
Am I on the right track here?
Any comments and advise is well appreciated.
I have a black '95 993 that has a somewhat dull/hazy finish w/ fine swirls.
I've heard great raves about Menzerna polishes and I just love the fact it's a German product.
After proper clay and wash,
My plan is to Porter-Cable first using Menzerna SIP PO83 with an orange LC pad.
Then PO85RD or 106FF(Nano) with a black LC pad. Or should I use a white?
Next, I'll apply a Menzrna Glaze also with a Black pad, followed by P21S wax.
Am I on the right track here?
Any comments and advise is well appreciated.
#2
I would use a white pad after the orange, it will help clean up any haze from the SIP and orange pad combo. I've never used SIP with a PC, only with a rotary, so hopefully others can chime in - I would imagine it will take major time to break down with a PC. Overall, your plan seems good - you might even be able to skip the glaze step after the SIP/orange and the 106FF/white, and apply your P21S via a black pad/PC; just smear it on the pad to spread it.
Steve
Steve
#3
Try the 106ff on a white pad first to see if that will remove your defects. If that does not work try SIP with the white pad, then go to the orange with SIP if needed. Porsche clear is on the soft side, so you might not need SIP/orange.
Also tape off a 2'x2' area to use as your test spot. Once you are 100% satisfied with the results on your test area, use that process on the rest of the paint.
Also tape off a 2'x2' area to use as your test spot. Once you are 100% satisfied with the results on your test area, use that process on the rest of the paint.
#4
Thanks for the input. Yeah, I like the test area idea and will try that.
I am confused by the two finish polishes...PO85RD and 106FF Nano. It looks like the 85RD is finer. Which do most prefer?
Also, is there any time I would want to go with a blue or black pad, or is white always sufficient?
Thanks again.
Jody
I am confused by the two finish polishes...PO85RD and 106FF Nano. It looks like the 85RD is finer. Which do most prefer?
Also, is there any time I would want to go with a blue or black pad, or is white always sufficient?
Thanks again.
Jody
#5
I agree with stephenwz968 re:SIP using a PC. I've done it and it does indeed take a while. I've just begun to tackle some scrathes and minor surface defects on my white 968 and ended up getting the best results using a green heavy polish (CCS) pad on a rotary. The orange was doing OK, but seems the green did a little better job at cutting. My question is why is the green pad "heavy polishing" and the orange pad "light cutting"? By feel, the green pad seems more abrasive and is structured much like the yellow heavy cutting pad where the orange pad is built similar to the white pads. I would think the green and orange would be the opposite of how they're advertised/marketed. I've had similar questions about which pad and which polish, but you'll develop a feel for what works best.
Also, as gmblack recommends, always try a lighter polish first to see if it will remove the defects. Then if it doesn't step up to a more abrasive polish using the appropriate pad.
My plan for my white paint:
SIP using Green CCS Pad at 2.5-3 setting on Makita 9227
Final Polish (PO85) with a white pad at 4 setting on PC7224
Full Molecular Jacket with Black Pad at 2.5-3 on PC7224
P21S by hand
I've had my 968 for a few years now and have cleaned it thoroughly, but have never actually corrected the defects and really got rid of the surface scratches. It's almost as bad as a black car but in a different sort of way. I'm looking forward to the end result. You should be very happ with the Menzerna line of polishes. My black 944 needed Power Gloss Compound with a yellow pad, followed by the appropriate steps to get in back into shape. I get quite a few compliments on the car especially when people find out it's almost at the quarter million mile mark. See some before and after shots here:
http://www.darrylnichols.com/index_files/Page328.htm
- Darryl
Also, as gmblack recommends, always try a lighter polish first to see if it will remove the defects. Then if it doesn't step up to a more abrasive polish using the appropriate pad.
My plan for my white paint:
SIP using Green CCS Pad at 2.5-3 setting on Makita 9227
Final Polish (PO85) with a white pad at 4 setting on PC7224
Full Molecular Jacket with Black Pad at 2.5-3 on PC7224
P21S by hand
I've had my 968 for a few years now and have cleaned it thoroughly, but have never actually corrected the defects and really got rid of the surface scratches. It's almost as bad as a black car but in a different sort of way. I'm looking forward to the end result. You should be very happ with the Menzerna line of polishes. My black 944 needed Power Gloss Compound with a yellow pad, followed by the appropriate steps to get in back into shape. I get quite a few compliments on the car especially when people find out it's almost at the quarter million mile mark. See some before and after shots here:
http://www.darrylnichols.com/index_files/Page328.htm
- Darryl
#6
Thanks for the input. Yeah, I like the test area idea and will try that.
I am confused by the two finish polishes...PO85RD and 106FF Nano. It looks like the 85RD is finer. Which do most prefer?
Also, is there any time I would want to go with a blue or black pad, or is white always sufficient?
Thanks again.
Jody
I am confused by the two finish polishes...PO85RD and 106FF Nano. It looks like the 85RD is finer. Which do most prefer?
Also, is there any time I would want to go with a blue or black pad, or is white always sufficient?
Thanks again.
Jody
85rd is really a great final polishing tool to be used with a rotary.
#7
Thanks Todd. That is the definitive answer I was looking for to make my decision. Now I can go ahead and place my order.
I'll try the 106FF first on a test area and see what happens. I may not get to this project for another week. It's real hot here in the Great Northwest right now. I'll post back with results.
Thanks again guys.
Jody
BTW, great work on that sweet 944! Im inspired.
I'll try the 106FF first on a test area and see what happens. I may not get to this project for another week. It's real hot here in the Great Northwest right now. I'll post back with results.
Thanks again guys.
Jody
BTW, great work on that sweet 944! Im inspired.
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#8
I would say that 85rd on your black car would be an unbelievable way to finish it off.
I would as Stephen said use a white pad.
LMK how I can help with the Menzerna.
I would as Stephen said use a white pad.
LMK how I can help with the Menzerna.
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#10
By rotary I notice a slightly nicer finish on most paint if I substitue 85rd over 106ff. This doesn't apply on car's with harder clear coats (of which Porsche's tend to have softer clear coats).
A Porter Cable, because of its random orbit and lack of power does not break down the abarsives in the polish as equally, so it can never finish the paint as nice a rotary (though the difference may be indecernable to the naked eye). I would think that 106ff is more then capable of reaching the limits of a Porter Cable's ability and tend to believe that 85rd doesn't improve the finish (to my eye) on a Porter Cable.
Like I said though, Phil has more experience in this area and certainly knows what he is talking about. I don't think you could go wrong either ways.
#11
yes to see the difference from 106 to 85 on a pc is tough.
on a rotary its definitely there.
bluejam, 106ff/fa will have more cut than 85rd (but its not a huge amount) 85rd in theory should finish out better.
on a rotary its definitely there.
bluejam, 106ff/fa will have more cut than 85rd (but its not a huge amount) 85rd in theory should finish out better.
#12
If you are using a PC, just use SIP, on a green or orange pad (SP 6), it will take a while
then use 106 or 85 with a white pad (sp 6) after that go with the glaze one a black or white pad (sp 3).
It will take you all day to do this! Your arms will be very tired, try not to skimp after the SIP stetp, just keep on going, drink a energy drink to get you through it. Black takes a lot of work, but is awesome when you are done!!
then use 106 or 85 with a white pad (sp 6) after that go with the glaze one a black or white pad (sp 3).
It will take you all day to do this! Your arms will be very tired, try not to skimp after the SIP stetp, just keep on going, drink a energy drink to get you through it. Black takes a lot of work, but is awesome when you are done!!
#13
Finally!
Well, finally.
I went with the Nano PO106 with a white pad, followed by the Menzerna Glaze using a black pad. I then waxed her with P21S by hand. I love the way it goes on like buttah.
Sorry I didn't take any "before shots", but it had a nasty haze. Anyway, I am very happy with the results.
Thanks to all that responded. Much appreciated.
Now the pix...
I went with the Nano PO106 with a white pad, followed by the Menzerna Glaze using a black pad. I then waxed her with P21S by hand. I love the way it goes on like buttah.
Sorry I didn't take any "before shots", but it had a nasty haze. Anyway, I am very happy with the results.
Thanks to all that responded. Much appreciated.
Now the pix...
Last edited by bluejam; 02-19-2014 at 02:18 AM.
#15
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