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Opti Clay = horrible!?

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Old 08-29-2007, 04:48 PM
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AndyK
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Default Opti Clay = horrible!?

Hey-
I washed my car with Dawn, the set about claying using Opti Clay, and Griots speed shine as a lube. What a mess! The clay kept sticking to the paint, and I had to use the rest of the clay to pat the stuck clay off the paint.

I've used Griots clay previously, and found that aside from sticking to my hands and getting under my fingernails, it NEVER came off on the paint.

Could the fact that I had Poli Seal on there from a few months back have caused the clay to behave in a strange way? What gives??
Old 08-29-2007, 06:04 PM
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Stephenwz968
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Generally it will stick when you don't use enough lube....or when it comes in contact with a solvent...were you able to get all the clay back off of the car?

I don't use dawn to strip the old wax, if you use any kind of polish it will do that for you, the dawn can strip oils from the paint, so you may want to skip that step.

Steve

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Old 08-29-2007, 08:13 PM
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AndyK
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I lubed the heck out of it. Could be it was sticking to the Poli Seal left on there?

I'm confused about polish. I used to use 3M IMperial Glaze, then Blitz Wax. Looked great, but lasted only a few weeks. I was told you can't use Imperial Glaze before either Poli Seal, or Rejex. Then, what do I use to polish the old wax off before sealing with either product?
Old 08-29-2007, 10:14 PM
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Stephenwz968
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Glaze is an oily product that really doesn't polish a surface, it fills in imperfections and puts oils onto the paint, and it doesn't allow products to set up and adhere-I know you have a PC, the best thing to use is something like Meguiar's #80, or Optimum Polish, on a polishing pad of your choice, after claying the car. The clay will remove the old wax, and the polish will too, then after you remove the polish, you seal with poliseal, rejex, or the sealant of your choice.

Steve
Old 08-29-2007, 10:52 PM
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IcemanG17
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So the Opti clay and griots both had sticking problems.....it does sound under lubed.....I have used Mothers and Adams...both work well, but the adams works a bit better..... I would also reduce the pressure you are putting on the clay.....clay doesn't need much, just a tiny bit to slide across the paint...if your pushing down to hard, that would make it stick too
Old 08-30-2007, 06:50 AM
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I'll have to go get some Meguires polish - I checed the glaze, and it has petroleum products in it! Glad I didn't go ahead and use it, thanks! Or, I'll just use the PC and apply Poli Seal.

The Griots clay didn't stick to the 944 when I used it with the same lube. And I wasn't pressing too hard. The Opti Clay glided over most of the paint, but got stuck in several areas, making it a nightmare to clean off!
Old 08-30-2007, 08:49 AM
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TOGWT
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What are you using for a lubricant?

Detailers Clay Lubricant:
The critical safety factor is adequate lubrication; most clay retailers supply their detailing spray (QD) as a lubricant, the problem with many of them is that they contain some form of solvent or alcohol, which may cause the clay to dry out. To provide sufficient lubrication the surface must be thoroughly saturated, problem is that a solvent dries out the clay, which could cause surface marring or cause it to disintegrate, or breakdown and become soft leaving streaks on the paint surface. Some car wash concentrates will also cause some of the same problems due to the synthetics, detergents and / or solvents used.

To ensure adequate surface lubrication and avoid surface marring use a product (Optimum No Rinse (ONR) - – http//:www.topoftheline.com) that contains a surfactant to ensure that any dirt/grit / metal debris is encapsulated and held in suspension and can be rinsed away
Old 08-30-2007, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
What are you using for a lubricant?

Detailers Clay Lubricant:
The critical safety factor is adequate lubrication; most clay retailers supply their detailing spray (QD) as a lubricant, the problem with many of them is that they contain some form of solvent or alcohol, which may cause the clay to dry out. To provide sufficient lubrication the surface must be thoroughly saturated, problem is that a solvent dries out the clay, which could cause surface marring or cause it to disintegrate, or breakdown and become soft leaving streaks on the paint surface. Some car wash concentrates will also cause some of the same problems due to the synthetics, detergents and / or solvents used.

To ensure adequate surface lubrication and avoid surface marring use a product (Optimum No Rinse (ONR) - – http//:www.topoftheline.com) that contains a surfactant to ensure that any dirt/grit / metal debris is encapsulated and held in suspension and can be rinsed away
I was using Griot's Speed Shine. Supposed to work as a lubricant as well as a detailers quick shine. Worked fine with the Griots clay last year. But, the 944 had carnuba wax on it, not Poli Seal. Maybe the Poli Seal caused the sticking?
Old 08-30-2007, 10:57 AM
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Anthony Orosco
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Personally I've never had the Opti-Clay stick. The Opti-Clay is superior to anything Automagic makes....and still is even if the Opti-Clay can't be sold in the USA anymore which really ticks me off....but I digress....all clay is Automagic clay even if you buy it from some other place. They have sued every Tom, Dick and Jane to make it that way.

What's going on in your case I have no idea as I've never had that issue. If it came in contact with some type of solvent then I could see where it may get gummy and soft. I've only used mine with car shampoo and water.

I also can't see PoliSeal running interference with the clay either.

For a possible remedy wash your car, wipe it down with an alcohol/water mixture, knead the Opti-Clay well and then clay it again. Use a mild polishing pad on your orbital (Menzerna or Optimum) and then re-apply the sealer of your choice.

Anthony
Old 08-30-2007, 11:52 AM
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How come it can't be sold in the US anymore?? Does it violate the Patriot Act or something!?

I bought Poli-Seal specifically to avoid using a polish, then a sealer. But everyone seems to say you need a topper over Poli-Seal? I'm confused. I was thinking I could apply OPS using my PC to both clean up the paint finish (for any left over stains or residue), and shine and seal the finish, in one step. No?

Also, if I am using OPS with my PC, do I have to avoid the sunroof seal when doing the roof? What about the small areas like the A pillars, etc - do I have to apply OPS by hand first, then use the PC to do the larger areas?

Thanks!
Old 08-30-2007, 12:34 PM
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Anthony Orosco
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PoliSeal IS a mild polish and sealer. No need to top it with anything UNLESS you wish to do so for your own personal reasons, such as more slickness, more gloss, etc.

PoliSeal can be used on trim to clean it and protect it.

As for the clay issue, Automagic sued everyone for "patent violations" so while OptiClay is still being made it can't be sold in the USA, only outside of the USA.

So i am guessing that Griots clay, Zaino clay, Mother's clay and all others are Automagic.....can you say "monopoly"?
Old 08-30-2007, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
As for the clay issue, Automagic sued everyone for "patent violations" so while OptiClay is still being made it can't be sold in the USA, only outside of the USA.

So i am guessing that Griots clay, Zaino clay, Mother's clay and all others are Automagic.....can you say "monopoly"?
Since using Opti Clay felt like I was using my son's Play Doh, as long as the others work, monopoly be damned, I'll use them!

Another question - Can I go over small trouble spots with some Poli Seal on a microfiber cloth, make sure the paint is nice and perfect, then go over the whole car with the PC and Poli Seal?



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