Applying RejeX with a polisher ?
#1
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Hi,
I've just bought a dual action polisher (a Bosch PEX 400 AE, thanks Monique for your advice
) and I wonder if I can apply Rejex with it.
I know its main advantage is to be very easy to apply by hand but there's still a can I have left
.
Is there any risk applying Rejex with a polisher ? Any feedback (shiner than manual application ?) ?
After washing and drying my car (claying not needed), I consider using P21S paint cleanser then RejeX.
TIA.
Marc.
I've just bought a dual action polisher (a Bosch PEX 400 AE, thanks Monique for your advice
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I know its main advantage is to be very easy to apply by hand but there's still a can I have left
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Is there any risk applying Rejex with a polisher ? Any feedback (shiner than manual application ?) ?
After washing and drying my car (claying not needed), I consider using P21S paint cleanser then RejeX.
TIA.
Marc.
#2
Race Director
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I have only applied rejex by hand? After a multiple step polishing? I also have thought about applying rejex with a buffer...but remember the 85 maximum temp for applying rejex....the heat from the buffer might go over the limit if it is warm outside?
#3
Rennlist Member
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I wouldn't think there's much point - a polisher is only really useful when the substance being aplied is abarsive; rejex isn't, so all it needs is to be wiped on and bufed off.
#4
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The PC generates little to no heat so it's really no problem to use it. Orbital buffers were basically designed for glaze and wax application, products that are low in abrasives. Many people use abrasive products with them though because of some of the new pads being put out by various companies, I had a PC for about 2 weeks then sold it because it was just a waste of time and effort....I would rather put it on by hand.
If you use a PC to apply Rejex, or any wax, make sure you are using a fine foam finishing pad.
Anthony
If you use a PC to apply Rejex, or any wax, make sure you are using a fine foam finishing pad.
Anthony
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Orbitals and Rotarys do require abrassive compounds for them to be most affective. However, they are superior to the human hand in generating heat while applying wax helping it bond and enter the paint. Using it to remove scratches is only half the power of an orbital/rotary. I own 3 Orbitals and 1 Rotary. Trust me, your hand can't touch what one of these babies can do. That's why the pros use them.
#6
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Originally Posted by SilverSteel
Orbitals and Rotarys do require abrassive compounds for them to be most affective. However, they are superior to the human hand in generating heat while applying wax helping it bond and enter the paint. Using it to remove scratches is only half the power of an orbital/rotary. I own 3 Orbitals and 1 Rotary. Trust me, your hand can't touch what one of these babies can do. That's why the pros use them.
Wax does not "enter" the paint, as in becoming part of it. Even polymer sealants don't enter paint but rather bond on the molecular level (crosslinking) on top of the clear coat. Both products partially seal the paint for a limited time.
Anthony
#7
Three Wheelin'
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Anthony,
I've been reading your posts and they are really good and I've learned much from them. In fact, I've added items to my inventory as a result of your comments. However, paint is porus and it does allow debris and wax or glaze to enter the surface of the paint. That is why clay is so effective. It is no different than using glaze to fill scratches; it enters the surface and binds to the paint, hiding many of the defects. Molecular level? No such thing. Wax does not operate at a molecular level as it is not even close to molecular sizing in terms of molecular structure of the materials used in wax, but ten times larger. In order to analyze a molecular level binding you would need an electron microscope on your car. This is gobbldygook and high talking for car wax.
I appreciate all your advice that you give to all because it is excellent. I can put you in touch with my partner (a chemist by trade with 20yrs experience designing chemical compositions for waxes and polishes). He sold his patents to Griots and Penske a few years ago. Needless to say he doesn't work anymore, but provides me free wax and advice (some good and some bad, the wax that is). I can't argue with your waxing tips because they are excellent, but will respectfully disagree with you on the fundamentals on which you base your assumptions.
But who cares, the car looks good and I find your advice enlightening.
I've been reading your posts and they are really good and I've learned much from them. In fact, I've added items to my inventory as a result of your comments. However, paint is porus and it does allow debris and wax or glaze to enter the surface of the paint. That is why clay is so effective. It is no different than using glaze to fill scratches; it enters the surface and binds to the paint, hiding many of the defects. Molecular level? No such thing. Wax does not operate at a molecular level as it is not even close to molecular sizing in terms of molecular structure of the materials used in wax, but ten times larger. In order to analyze a molecular level binding you would need an electron microscope on your car. This is gobbldygook and high talking for car wax.
I appreciate all your advice that you give to all because it is excellent. I can put you in touch with my partner (a chemist by trade with 20yrs experience designing chemical compositions for waxes and polishes). He sold his patents to Griots and Penske a few years ago. Needless to say he doesn't work anymore, but provides me free wax and advice (some good and some bad, the wax that is). I can't argue with your waxing tips because they are excellent, but will respectfully disagree with you on the fundamentals on which you base your assumptions.
But who cares, the car looks good and I find your advice enlightening.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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#8
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Originally Posted by SilverSteel
Anthony,
I've been reading your posts and they are really good and I've learned much from them. In fact, I've added items to my inventory as a result of your comments. However, paint is porus and it does allow debris and wax or glaze to enter the surface of the paint. That is why clay is so effective. It is no different than using glaze to fill scratches; it enters the surface and binds to the paint, hiding many of the defects. Molecular level? No such thing. Wax does not operate at a molecular level as it is not even close to molecular sizing in terms of molecular structure of the materials used in wax, but ten times larger. In order to analyze a molecular level binding you would need an electron microscope on your car. This is gobbldygook and high talking for car wax.
I appreciate all your advice that you give to all because it is excellent. I can put you in touch with my partner (a chemist by trade with 20yrs experience designing chemical compositions for waxes and polishes). He sold his patents to Griots and Penske a few years ago. Needless to say he doesn't work anymore, but provides me free wax and advice (some good and some bad, the wax that is). I can't argue with your waxing tips because they are excellent, but will respectfully disagree with you on the fundamentals on which you base your assumptions.
But who cares, the car looks good and I find your advice enlightening.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I've been reading your posts and they are really good and I've learned much from them. In fact, I've added items to my inventory as a result of your comments. However, paint is porus and it does allow debris and wax or glaze to enter the surface of the paint. That is why clay is so effective. It is no different than using glaze to fill scratches; it enters the surface and binds to the paint, hiding many of the defects. Molecular level? No such thing. Wax does not operate at a molecular level as it is not even close to molecular sizing in terms of molecular structure of the materials used in wax, but ten times larger. In order to analyze a molecular level binding you would need an electron microscope on your car. This is gobbldygook and high talking for car wax.
I appreciate all your advice that you give to all because it is excellent. I can put you in touch with my partner (a chemist by trade with 20yrs experience designing chemical compositions for waxes and polishes). He sold his patents to Griots and Penske a few years ago. Needless to say he doesn't work anymore, but provides me free wax and advice (some good and some bad, the wax that is). I can't argue with your waxing tips because they are excellent, but will respectfully disagree with you on the fundamentals on which you base your assumptions.
But who cares, the car looks good and I find your advice enlightening.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Secondly, I again state that you have been given misinformation. I again don't mean to offend you, just perhaps try and correct the misinformation. In fact I believe you may just have some terms mixed up.
However, paint is porus and it does allow debris and wax or glaze to enter the surface of the paint
This is where I believe you may be getting terms mixed up. A wax may fill the paint but it cannot "enter" the paint. Air, water, solvents and some UV literaly "enters" the paint because these are able to penetrate the highly crosslinked surface of the paint.
You misread my statement about "molecular level". I never stated that wax bonds at the molecular level but rather polymers do. They "crosslink" on the surface of the paint.
Molecular level? No such thing. Wax does not operate at a molecular level as it is not even close to molecular sizing in terms of molecular structure of the materials used in wax
Hope this helps,
Anthony
#9
Three Wheelin'
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Uh, it doesn't look like we disagree on too much here. I used to have a photo taken by an electron microscope of the surface of a factory paint job showing how porous and cavernous it really is. In fact, it almost looks like the grand canyon, on a micro level that is. And, it has holes almost like swiss cheese. So when I say enters the paint, fills the valleys and holes, it hides the imperfections. If I can find the photo I'll post it to this note. It almost looks like a craglie sponge. It gives a whole new perspective on glossy paint.
#10
Three Wheelin'
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Uh, it doesn't look like we disagree on too much here. I used to have a photo taken by an electron microscope of the surface of a factory paint job showing how porous and cavernous it really is. In fact, it almost looks like the grand canyon, on a micro level that is. And, it has holes almost like swiss cheese. So when I say enters the paint, fills the valleys and holes, it hides the imperfections. If I can find the photo I'll post it to this note. It almost looks like a craglie sponge. It gives a whole new perspective on glossy paint.
#11
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Hi,
Does anyone know if Rejex is safe for non-clear coat paint finishes? I hope so, because I used it on my new 993 last night. The paint really shines great now.
Thanks so much
Jordan
Does anyone know if Rejex is safe for non-clear coat paint finishes? I hope so, because I used it on my new 993 last night. The paint really shines great now.
Thanks so much
Jordan