iPOD or MP3 Installation
#1
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As its obviously a difficult problem to solve given the MOST system is not user accessible, here is a post I did from another board, anyone interested in helping me with this project ?
"I think the thread from the XM Radio question is the real answer.
None of the radio based solutions can work if you want high quality, the whole electronic system INSIDE of the vehicle is designed to stop interference either by electical switching of cell phone use, so all this solution is doing is working against the car designers.
Anyone remember how they installed CD changers before they were intergrated into car electrical systems ? Well they cut into the antenae line to the radio.
In this line they connect an FM Modulator which does nothing until its powered up, at which point it take over the input to the radio and injects a pure stereo FM signal directly throught the tuner.
What we need is a map of where the antanae coax cables from the diversity setup runs and where it connects into the radio or PCM.
I will check out where to get the FM Modulator and hopefully we should be able to put a set of DIY instructions so we can get our MP3 players going again.
We also need a to locate a HOT line and decide on a good place to put a power switch.
Anyone interested ?"
"I think the thread from the XM Radio question is the real answer.
None of the radio based solutions can work if you want high quality, the whole electronic system INSIDE of the vehicle is designed to stop interference either by electical switching of cell phone use, so all this solution is doing is working against the car designers.
Anyone remember how they installed CD changers before they were intergrated into car electrical systems ? Well they cut into the antenae line to the radio.
In this line they connect an FM Modulator which does nothing until its powered up, at which point it take over the input to the radio and injects a pure stereo FM signal directly throught the tuner.
What we need is a map of where the antanae coax cables from the diversity setup runs and where it connects into the radio or PCM.
I will check out where to get the FM Modulator and hopefully we should be able to put a set of DIY instructions so we can get our MP3 players going again.
We also need a to locate a HOT line and decide on a good place to put a power switch.
Anyone interested ?"
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Michael, have you looked at the one by <a href="http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/itrip/index.html" target="_blank">Griffin Technology</a>? Looks pretty slick.
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Jim,
Did I get it right that with the iTrip, there's nothing to install, just to tune both to the same frequency?
That would be cool. But what about the sound quality? Any idea how good that could be?
Thanks
Did I get it right that with the iTrip, there's nothing to install, just to tune both to the same frequency?
That would be cool. But what about the sound quality? Any idea how good that could be?
Thanks
#6
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Jim and Matt
I have tried everyone I could get my hands on including iTrip and commercial grade ones used by Pro stereo / video installers.
None of them imho provide a reliable consistant connection and the sound quality is naff.
Here is my post from last night on the roadfly board. I installed the FM Modulator and love the results.
"Well, the weather kept dry enough to work today so I installed the iPod.
The whole process took about 45 minutes but elapsed time was about 90 as I took extra care not damage or force anything.
First.. the results. Works fine, quality excellent.
Outstanding issues - Ipod car charger inserting slight interference when plugged in (could be switched supply broken) --Mounting the iPod, this is a tough one.
Tools required -
# 20 Torx driver (not a bit, you need a long narrow shaft.
A long thin piece of plastic to act as a fish ( I used an 18inch tube) to get the antenna connections through to the space behind the PCM (in my case).
Hook tool (dentists) to remove trim.
Parts -
FM Modulator $20 - $70 ( try ebay)
2 Antenna convertors for VW / Euro 2000 + (Circuit City)
6ft Mini Stereo to RCA Y adapter (Radio Shack)
Volt meter
The FM Modulator inserts between the Euro Connector antenna input to the radio. Set a preset on the radio to 88.7 (in my case). Flip a power switch and the signal from the ipod is injected into the radio at the selected frequency.
So a power connection is required, easily found in the fuse box found under the pry off cover of the fuse box at the end of the dashboard, drivers side. I used a meter to identify an always-on blank.
Method
Using the hook tool lift the trim (inverse U) around the radio, start at the bottom each side and gently lift the trim off its 6 press in connectors.
You can now see the four #20 torx mounting screws for the PCM. Remove these. Loosen the 2 screws on the sides of the climate control display no need to remove.
With a PCM you can now pull the unit straight forward so that it clears the hole, I rested it between the gearstick and the (oh @#$% !) handle.
Remove the #20 Torx from the center of the trim panel above the pedals.
Remove the fusebox cover.
Insert the piece of plastic thru the holes on the upper edge of the left hand side of the PCM space, thread it thru to the space above the pedals. ( not as easy as it sounds, a bit fiddly)
Attach the antenna leads from the modulator to the plastic (duck tape works) and pull the plastic back with the cables.
remove the far right connector from the back of the PCM, (the is a small press and pull lever on the connector). Connect the cable to the convertor cable at the to the modulator cable. Connect the second convertor to the PCM.
Be carefull to insure that the cables are routed behind the cavity when you slide the PCM back in. (4 times in took me to get it right)
thread the +ve lead thrugh to the fuse box and using a spade connector plug into the spare fuse bay you have identified.
Locate a screw to attach the ground to (hint just above the end of the parking brake pedal the is one)
Drill a small hole on the trim panel above the accelerator pedal to take the small switch.
Attach the iPod cable to the modulator and press it under the center console. After that you have to decide where you want it I cannot help you there.
Reverse the procedure to put it back together, pretty straight forward really.
I will post some pics later.
Well worth doing !
I have tried everyone I could get my hands on including iTrip and commercial grade ones used by Pro stereo / video installers.
None of them imho provide a reliable consistant connection and the sound quality is naff.
Here is my post from last night on the roadfly board. I installed the FM Modulator and love the results.
"Well, the weather kept dry enough to work today so I installed the iPod.
The whole process took about 45 minutes but elapsed time was about 90 as I took extra care not damage or force anything.
First.. the results. Works fine, quality excellent.
Outstanding issues - Ipod car charger inserting slight interference when plugged in (could be switched supply broken) --Mounting the iPod, this is a tough one.
Tools required -
# 20 Torx driver (not a bit, you need a long narrow shaft.
A long thin piece of plastic to act as a fish ( I used an 18inch tube) to get the antenna connections through to the space behind the PCM (in my case).
Hook tool (dentists) to remove trim.
Parts -
FM Modulator $20 - $70 ( try ebay)
2 Antenna convertors for VW / Euro 2000 + (Circuit City)
6ft Mini Stereo to RCA Y adapter (Radio Shack)
Volt meter
The FM Modulator inserts between the Euro Connector antenna input to the radio. Set a preset on the radio to 88.7 (in my case). Flip a power switch and the signal from the ipod is injected into the radio at the selected frequency.
So a power connection is required, easily found in the fuse box found under the pry off cover of the fuse box at the end of the dashboard, drivers side. I used a meter to identify an always-on blank.
Method
Using the hook tool lift the trim (inverse U) around the radio, start at the bottom each side and gently lift the trim off its 6 press in connectors.
You can now see the four #20 torx mounting screws for the PCM. Remove these. Loosen the 2 screws on the sides of the climate control display no need to remove.
With a PCM you can now pull the unit straight forward so that it clears the hole, I rested it between the gearstick and the (oh @#$% !) handle.
Remove the #20 Torx from the center of the trim panel above the pedals.
Remove the fusebox cover.
Insert the piece of plastic thru the holes on the upper edge of the left hand side of the PCM space, thread it thru to the space above the pedals. ( not as easy as it sounds, a bit fiddly)
Attach the antenna leads from the modulator to the plastic (duck tape works) and pull the plastic back with the cables.
remove the far right connector from the back of the PCM, (the is a small press and pull lever on the connector). Connect the cable to the convertor cable at the to the modulator cable. Connect the second convertor to the PCM.
Be carefull to insure that the cables are routed behind the cavity when you slide the PCM back in. (4 times in took me to get it right)
thread the +ve lead thrugh to the fuse box and using a spade connector plug into the spare fuse bay you have identified.
Locate a screw to attach the ground to (hint just above the end of the parking brake pedal the is one)
Drill a small hole on the trim panel above the accelerator pedal to take the small switch.
Attach the iPod cable to the modulator and press it under the center console. After that you have to decide where you want it I cannot help you there.
Reverse the procedure to put it back together, pretty straight forward really.
I will post some pics later.
Well worth doing !
#7
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Thread Starter
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
<a href="http://gallery.rennlist.com/cayennegallery/mudman2?&page=1" target="_blank">http://gallery.rennlist.com/cayennegallery/mudman2?&page=1</a>
Pages 2 and 3 show the job
Pages 2 and 3 show the job
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#10
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Michael,
Fantastic post! That's the kind of quality information that keeps me coming back to this forum!
I got pretty excited about the iTrip (slick engineering) until I read the reviews linked through their website <a href="http://www.ipoding.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=1." target="_blank">http://www.ipoding.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=1.</a> iTrip got negitive comments on sound, battery drain and engineering (firewire cap in the way).
Anyway, hardwiring must be better, but did I miss a picture on where you mounted your ipod?
Thanks
Fantastic post! That's the kind of quality information that keeps me coming back to this forum!
I got pretty excited about the iTrip (slick engineering) until I read the reviews linked through their website <a href="http://www.ipoding.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=1." target="_blank">http://www.ipoding.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=1.</a> iTrip got negitive comments on sound, battery drain and engineering (firewire cap in the way).
Anyway, hardwiring must be better, but did I miss a picture on where you mounted your ipod?
Thanks
#11
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actually I did not, yet.
Thats the tricky part as I said in the article.
I am sort of thinking of mounting under my phone mount, but that may be to much.
Right now I store in console and stick in cup holder in use (kind a icky).
I am on the lookout for mounting hardware.
Thanks for the kind words.
Thats the tricky part as I said in the article.
I am sort of thinking of mounting under my phone mount, but that may be to much.
Right now I store in console and stick in cup holder in use (kind a icky).
I am on the lookout for mounting hardware.
Thanks for the kind words.