UTRacerX9,

Thanks for this valuable information. I hope you'll report complete success with their service.

 

Yes, I will. What bothers me the most about this is that it was broken before they put it in the box to be shipped, as there are no broken pieces in the box. I either got some kit that was returned and they didn't inspect it, or they put a broken cable in without noticing.

(Small world, I see your sig says you're in Allen TX, I'm just up the road in Prosper.)

 

Howdy neighbor! Maybe I'll see you at the next Cars & Coffee or Maverick gathering.

 

Does anyone have a phone number for ABL? I see no phone number on the website, and he hasn't logged into this website for 2 months. No response to my email though it's been over 24 hours. I need to get a replacement negative lead before I can start installation, I'm thinking it may be faster at this point if I just ordered another one and then do a chargeback on the first one after the second one is received.

 

He was a little slow getting back with me but he did reply. Try this number and email. If you know what WeChat is, you could try that, I suppose:

 

He usually replies the emails between 4am-6am UTC. Send an email and he’ll respond tomorrow or the next day.

 

Thank you both!

 

So after the conversion, what is the procedure to replace the AGM battery for the second time? Do you still register the new battery with the scan tool? If yes, which do you pick LIPOFE?

 

Well, things are getting real now. I had my 2019 Cayenne stored in a climate controlled garage for 3 months and plugged in with a Ctek charger. Upon arriving at the warehouse, Battery is now completely dead. Ctek charger won’t wake up the battery and keeps blinking after reset and then the red light comes on.

A couple questions. 1. Can I jump start with another vehicle normally without any issues or special processes so I can at least move the car to a place to work on it?
2. if the car is jumped successfully, what are the chances the battery can be charged again with the ctek after the car has had a chance to run a bit?
3. Should I go forward with the AGM swap or should I try the circuit board reset fix and send it to the dude in New York?

I love my car. It feels so solid and built like a tank. But I am frustrated spending my weekend trying to figure out a fix for a car that’s five years old.

 

The battery is isolated from the LIN connection, meaning you are free from thereon to change your battery as you wish. No coding required.

 

Today I had to jump my 2019 Cayenne because the battery was completely dead and wouldn’t take a charge or a wake up signal from Ctek. Jumped it, started fine and I ran it for 30 minutes. Showed red electrical system failure. I drove it for a few minutes and then parked it. I turned it off and started it up again and started fine. Then I drove it for a few more minutes and even the auto start kicked in when I stopped. I stopped the car, parked it, and put the ctek charger on it. The ctek charger showed working and then on about step four or five, the charger went to zero and stopped.
Disconnected the charger and the battery is 100% dead again. No life.
I’m confused as to what my issue is. Is it due to the battery itself and the AGM swap will fix it or could it be another electrical issue? I’m trying to prevent more issues if I do the AGM swap and that wasn’t the issue and then I have to go to the dealer for a larger fix. Any help/guidance is appreciated.

 

I also had my battery go dead several times while connected long-term to my CTEK Lithium charger. I still don’t understand why. Each time, I was able to jump start the battery with my Antigravity Micro-Start and then recharge the battery with the CTEK. As I recall, I also had a few warning lights after the jump start — but I don’t remember getting an Electrical System Failure light.

The resting voltage on my battery was declining, as well. Over the previous year, it declined from 13.2V down to 12.9V.

Given the repeated dead batteries and declining resting voltage, I figured the battery would soon fail completely. I opted to be the test dummy for the AGM conversion and am pleased with the results.

Sounds like your battery has failed, resulting in the Electrical System Failure warning. You have a few options:

1. Take it to the dealer. They might replace the battery under warranty or they might charge you $1,500 -$3,000 for a new one. Some have posted that the new version of the LFP battery is much cheaper; about $1K plus installation. One posted that the new battery installed by the dealer failed shortly afterwards. No further info.

2. Send the BMS out for reprogramming. However, the cells on your battery are 5-6 years old now. You’ll still have an old battery.

3. Convert to AGM.

Good luck and let us know how things work out!

 

An update, I did get a reply to my emails early this morning (3am ish) and he said he would be overnighting a new cable to me today, so hopefully I will have it by tomorrow and can install in the next few days.

 

Excellent, can't wait to hear if the conversion is successful.

 

Update:
Removed the battery, removed the circuit board on the battery (that was a fun afternoon getting the battery cover off - the sides were mangled but it’s still seals at least) and sent in the circuit board for reset. Charged the battery on the real terminals, Received the board back, installed in battery and reinstalled the battery in the car…. Success. The car starts and no more battery light on startup. However, now I get to troubleshoot a yellow check engine light……

I also ordered the AGM conversion kit simultaneously because I’m not sure how long the current setup will hold up.