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New to me 2005 CTT - journal of purchase, sorting out & ongoing maintenance

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New to me 2005 CTT - journal of purchase, sorting out & ongoing maintenance

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Old 03-21-2016, 11:29 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by GrandeOak View Post
I replaced engine torque strut. No extra work to do it while replacing the spark plugs and coils.

The body side bushing was shot.



Looks like Porsche changed the strut to black (I got mine from Sonnen). I don't know when they made the change but if your looking at Cayenne's and see a black strut it probably indicates the strut is not original.

Thank you for posting. I replaced the plugs, coils, and torque arm recently on my 06 CTTS at 81K. My torque arm looked just as worn as the old torque arm in your pics at only 81K. My engine is now noticeably smoother than before. I'm hoping the new torque arm will prolong the life of my lower engine mounts.
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Old 04-09-2016, 12:28 PM
  #32  
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Default New headlight wiring harness

After re-installing my right headlight after re-placing the coolant expansion tank I was getting all sorts of headlight errors (dipped beam, headlight adjustment, directional signal, side light). I had previously modified the harness so it didn't mount into the headlight bracket to fix the directional signal error.

When I pulled the headlight out my harness looked like this.



I electrical taped the wires but still had directional signal and sidelight errors. I installed a new wiring harness but still had errors. A new fuse (10amp in location #5 on the right side dash) fixed everything.
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:45 PM
  #33  
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Default Update transfer case stepper motor

I had the old version stepper motor (0AD341601A) and although I didn't have any error codes or obnoxious sounds others report I did have some balkyness at low speeds, especially when turning sharply, and you could almost feel it "step".

I found an updated stepper motor (0AD341601C) at a local yard for $145 with a 4 month/4K mile warranty and figured I had nothing to loose. Donor vehicle was a 2005 with 120K miles so very close to my rig.

Very easy install and well worth it. The balkyness is significantly reduced and a very fortunate added bonus, the engine mount vibration when coming to a stop has been dramatically reduced.

One note. If you go the used route make sure to get the mounting bracket (red arrow in second photo). As shown below, the updated version (on the right in the photo below) is shorter and thicker so the old bracket would require manipulation to work.



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Old 07-09-2016, 06:43 PM
  #34  
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Default Replaced blower motor

My AC started to moan and the fan would either not run at all or only run at a low speed. A vibration could also be felt in the steering wheel.

This happened intermittently but became more frequent right as it was hitting 118 degrees in Phoenix.

I installed a new blower motor in about 20 minutes and it seems to be fine. The fan was from Uro and cost $140 from Amazon.
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:00 PM
  #35  
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Default Replaced brake booster hose

The brake booster light came on and I found a crack in the "lower" brake booster hose that runs between the two firewalls connecting the pump and booster (pn 955 355 57 51).

The hose was cracked where it attaches to the "upper" hose just outside the front firewall. See photos below.

The repair is not too bad but you have to remove the booster pump, cowl and wiper motor. The worst part is the grommet in the front firewall. The hose came with a new one that proved too hard to re-install completely (I got part of it in and gave up). I also replace the grommet where the hose attaches to the brake booster (pn 955 355 921 00). It was only $2 and easy to replace but the existing one looked fine.

I can no longer edit the 2nd post with the running tally of costs so I will update in each post.

Failed part
123,000 mi (09/2016) - lower brake booster hose (DIY) - $100

Running totals
$10,500 - includes $3,500 reduction for deferred maintenance items
$1,715 - failed parts
$1,302 - wear and tear items
$1,249 - routine maintenance

Helpful resources:
Removing the cowl - I didn't have to release the hood shock but a wiper puller like this is essential
Removing the booster air pump
Removing the wiper motor






Last edited by GrandeOak; 09-15-2016 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:11 AM
  #36  
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Hey GrandOak,

Just picked up a 2005 Turbo and have been playing catchup on the maint items like you have the last 2 weeks.

Someone had replaced all the exterior bulbs with cheap LED, no resistor bulbs. Lights were intermittent and getting replace bulb errors. Was happy that all I had to do was put in new "regular" bulbs. Had to replace the cornering light bulbs and fuse. One headlight bulb was black so replaced it too. Also got a new headlight harness for the driver side, it was bare in places like yours and wiring looked pretty brittle.

Need to do the same with the interior bulbs too.

Also had to do the booster line. After replacing the brakes were still a little spongy. Was just going to flush and make sure all the air was out but found the front brake disc was the 6 cylinder 320mm instead of the S and Turbo 350mm. Yikes! Only about half the front pads were even touching the disc.

Found a couple of small oil leaks, pan gasket and one of the turbo lines.

And both the rear hatch and window shocks were gone.

With same miles and deferred maint issues got mine for the same you did.
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:02 AM
  #37  
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This is a very helpful thread! Thank you for posting all these updates.
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:58 AM
  #38  
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After one year of daily driving the 2005 CTT here is a summary:
  • 9,000 miles
  • Zero check engine lights
  • $240 in unexpected repairs
  • Endless smiles when I get to use my right foot
The truck now has 125,000 miles on it and seems to drive better every day.

After the initial sorting out and maintenance catch-up the only issues have been very common items on these vehicles (coolant expansion tank, headlight wire harness, blower motor, brake booster hose).

I see no reason this truck canít go another 100,000 miles so I have no qualms doing the scheduled and preventative maintenance and fixing things as they come up to keep her running like new.

Next up are valve cover gaskets and probably some new breather hoses (there is a hiss near the air-oil separator but that isnít the issue so I will be investigating that soon). I am debating doing the water pump and pulleys. They donít seem to be making any noise so I think I will wait.
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Old 02-05-2017, 02:33 PM
  #39  
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Default Valve Cover Gasket Replacement - failed DIY

My valve covers where seeping oil - it wasn't bad yet (no smoke or smell from dripping on exhaust) but figured I would tackle it before it got messier.

I was fully prepared for the tough to access back bolts on the right side but feared stripping the 2nd to back bolt and decided I better stop before I do real damage. I think my concern was using a T-30 driver as instructed in the Pelican Parts write-up. I think the proper driver is T-40 (seems Porsche agrees in the attached repair manual).

Not ready to admit complete defeat I figured I would do the left (driver) side. However, when the wire running over the valve cover (outlined in orange) and the wire harness at the top of the valve cover (outlined in blue) became problematic I figured I would have an Indy do both sides.

I couldn't find any info on dealing with the wire and wire harness (see below) so if anyone has some tips it would definitely help others.



I provided the parts ($115 from Sonnen) and delivered it to an Indy who charged $477 in labor. I had it completely taken apart so the labor should be a little lower than if they did the whole job.

Parts list
948-105-931-03 valve cover gasket (bank one - right side)
948-105-932-05 valve cover gasket (bank two - left side)
948-105-933-00 (2) spark plug gaskets
948-105-934-00 (2) cam adjuster seals
000-043-204-35 Porsche sealant (Loctite SI 5900 Flange Sealant)

Helpful resources
Pelican Parts writeup
Shallow torx kit (courtesy of @Dan87951)
DIY post (this didn't help me but it may help others)
Repair guide attached to this post
Attached Images
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Old 02-05-2017, 02:51 PM
  #40  
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The wire going over the cam cover goes to the AC compressor and removes fairly easily. Get underneath, unclick, and route out of the way.
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Old 02-05-2017, 03:22 PM
  #41  
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Default Vacuum T behind intake manifold

When I took the valve covers off I noticed the plastic T in the vacuum line behind the intake manifold was broken. I know this is a common failure and figured I would replace it the next time I had to take the intake manifold off. Below is a picture of the T (not from my vehicle).





While the vehicle was at the Indy getting the valve covers done he asked if I wanted him to replace the entire vacuum line (948-107-215-52 ~ $150). When he said he didn't have to take the intake off and he was willing to do my recommendation of replacing it with a brass T and high pressure hose I had him do it.

Cost
Brass T - $7
High pressure hose (9.5mm) - $7
Clamps - $15
Labor - $130

More information about replacing this with a brass T can be found here

My Indy said this vacuum line feed scavenged crankcase fumes to the turbos. I can't say I notice a difference in performance but the pig is running great.
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Old 02-05-2017, 03:51 PM
  #42  
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Default Ongoing costs timeline v2

I can no longer update the original ongoing costs timeline so this post will serve as the ongoing costs post (until I can no longer update it).

Purchased
115,750 mi (10/2015) for $10.5K (FWIW $3.5K under KBB in lieu of some deferred maintenance items denoted by an * below)

Failed parts
116,525 mi (11/2015) - replaced valve body with remanufactured RevMax unit (DIY) - $719* (details)
119,130 mi (03/2016) - replaced coolant expansion tank (DIY) - $82 (details)
119,800 mi (04/2016) - replaced headlight wiring harness (DIY) - $40 (details)
121,600 mi (05/2016) - replaced transfer case stepper motor with used updated version (DIY) - $145 (details)
122,000 mi (06/2016) - replaced blower motor (DIY) - $140 (details)
123,000 mi (09/2016) - lower brake booster hose (DIY) - $100 (details)
126,800 mi (01/2017) - replace plastic vacuum T behind intake manifold (Indy) - $160 (details)
136,500 mi (02/2018) - replaced L/R exhaust tip clamps (DIY) - $30
135,600 mi (01/2018) - replaced both horns (DIY) - $77
136,750 mi (02/2018) - replaced headlight wiring harness (DIY) - $42
138,000 mi (04/2018) - replaced low side AC seal & recharge (Indy) - $211
138,000 mi (04/2018) - metal coolant T's & new hoses (DIY) - $104 (details)
138,000 mi (04/2018) - starter (DIY) - $238 (details)
138,000 mi (04/2018) - manifold WYAIT items & gaskets (DIY) - $128

Wear and tear items
116,250 mi (11/2015) - replaced both headlight gaskets (DIY) - $97*
116,250 mi (11/2015) - replaced hood shock, tail light retaining socket, washer fluid cap (DIY) - $36*
116,250 mi (11/2015) - replaced driver side pressure pipe o-ring (DIY) - $6* (details)
116,695 mi (12/2015) - replaced engine torque strut (DIY) - $148 (details)
117,700 mi (01/2016) - replaced battery (DIY) - $156
118,560 mi (02/2016) - front suspension refresh (DIY) - $1,318* (details)
126,800 mi (01/2017) - replaced valve cover gaskets (Indy) - $593 (details)
129,740 mi (04/2017) - replaced front & rear brake pads and sensors (DIY) - $320 (EBC Red Stuff)
138,000 mi (04/2018) - water pump, pulley, gasket, coolant (DIY) - $198 (details)
138,000 mi (04/2018) - bleed coolant system (Indy) - $120

Routine maintenance
116,525 mi (11/2015) - changed front and rear diff and transfer case fluids (DIY) - $41
116,525 mi (11/2015) - new Porsche AFT fluid, filter and gaskets (DIY) - $356
116,695 mi (12/2015) - replaced spark plug coils (DIY) - $258
116,695 mi (12/2015) - replaced spark plugs (DIY) (120,000 mi scheduled maintenance) - $108 (details)
116,695 mi (12/2015) - replaced engine air filters (DIY) (120,000 mi scheduled maintenance) - $46
119,500 mi (03/2016) - brake fluid flush (DIY) - $34
119,700 mi (03/2016) - power steering fluid refresh (turkey baster) (DIY) - $15
123,400 mi (07/2016) - oil change, filter and drain plug washer (DIY) - $54
129,940 mi (05/2017) - oil change, filter, drain plug and washer (DIY) - $68
138,000 mi (04/2018) - oil change, filter and drain plug washer (DIY) - $57

Running totals
$10,500 - purchase (includes $3,500 reduction for deferred maintenance items (denoted by * above) included in totals below)
$2,216 - failed parts
$2,992 - wear and tear items
$1,037 - routine maintenance

Last edited by GrandeOak; 05-07-2018 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 05-07-2018, 08:18 PM
  #43  
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Default Water pump, metal coolant T's, starter

She's still running great at 138,000 miles and I see no issue with it going over 200K so I invested some time into spring maintenance. Unless stated, all items below were DIY:

Water pump
Water pump (Laso) (94810601104) - $113
Water pump gasket (Porsche) (94810611503) - $4
Water pump pulley (Porsche) (94810609001) - $40
Water pump pulley bolt (Porsche) (99907310401) - $2

The water pump was original and this was replaced preventative maintenance. It wasn't leaking and upon removal seemed to be in pretty good condition. pretty easy job with the intake and throttle body off.

I couldn't get
this cable operated hose clamp this cable operated hose clamp
to work - the clamp end was too large and stiff to get into the tight spots. But http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cable-operated-hose-clamp-pliers/p-00949803000P?sid=IDx01192011x202447059&gclid=CjwKCAjw8r_XBRBkEiwAjWGLlC7P8T1b0M8ABTKD4pjnTLznDbVajTcONtOVoIRlHU878ursvXF7yRoCqPMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKWYwsrV9NoCFcV-YgodOCIOdA worked.

Helpful resources
video 1 (www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgXDobIC4Lc) and video 2 (www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgXDobIC4Lc) from @dan87951

Coolant hoses and metal T's
Inlet hose (Porsche) (95510632350) - $23
Water hose assembly (Porsche) (94810603551) - $30
Metal coolant T's (jagsthatrun.com) (1"x5/8"x1" and 3/4"x3/4"x3/4") - $50

The larger coolant T hose (95510632350) was replaced at 80,000 miles but the other hose was original so this was preventative maintenance. The large T had a little coolant seepage. This job is as bad as the rumors. Can't imagine doing it without removing the manifold.

Starter
This was a WYAIT item. I don't know if my coolant pipes were done preventatively or if the starter may have been comprimised by coolant. The starter was a little slow and occassionally I would turn the key and get nothing. I was able to replace the starter with the coolant pipes in place but had to remove the plastic bridge at the back to get an extra 1/4".

Starter (Bosche re-built) (94860410600) - $238

It definitely starts faster and its fun to start it up and get a quick bark. Worth the time and $.

WYAIT and related items
Vent tube (Porsche) (94810601603) - $44
Coolant temp sensor (Porsche) (99660641000) - $25
Manifold gasket x2 (Porsche) (94811014501) - $46
Throttle body gasket (Porsche) (948 110 143 01) - $13
Clean throttle body - $0
Coolant (Porsche) (1 gallon) - $43
Bleed coolant system (done by Indy) - $120

Other
The serpentine belt was replaced at 80,000 so I didn't replace it. I gambled and assumed the thermostat was replaced when the coolant pipes were done so I didn't replace it.

This was a time consuming and frustrating (coolant T's) couple days work but amazingly I managed to get everything apart and back together without breaking any plastic parts.

Bonus
After the repairs the shifting is much smoother at low speeds (under 25mph) and the engine mount related vibration (accompanied by an RPM dip) when coming to a stop is 75% improved. Only thing I can figure is cleaning the throttle body and the upper engine mount may not have been properly tightened by the Indy that did the valve cover gaskets a year ago. The throttle body didn't seem too bad (see below) and the engine mount wasn't overly loose. Regardless, I love the result.



Before - front


Before - back




After - front


After - back

Last edited by GrandeOak; 05-09-2018 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 05-08-2018, 08:44 AM
  #44  
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This looks like a wealth of info for 955/957 owners, but why is it in the 958 forum? Did I miss something?
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