dbv1

My power tailgate won't open fully most of the time. It started doing this about a week ago. It'll go a part of the way up, then 3 short beeps and a stop. I can open it by hand and I'm not feeling any more resistance than normal.

I plugged in iCarScan and it pulled a code from the tailgate: 00001E - motor right, open circuit

I searched for that code to no avail. AllDataDIY also has nothing on that code and the only article on the tailgate is about the interior trim removal. All the tailgate articles are about 955/957. Is 958 similar?

This is a 2011 base (power tailgate wasn't an option). Anyone run into a similar issue?

jtakhtalian

Have you tried resetting the travel limit on the tailgate? There's a process that I can't remember off the top of my head but it's certainly in the owner's manual.

dbv1

I don't think it has anything to do with the travel limit. It sometimes only raises a couple of inches and stops, sometimes two thirds way up. And there's a clear code out of it. This is the only other reference to this I can find:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...g-closing.html

I'm wondering whether that "strut" is all there's to it. It seems like there's a motor in it, as slender as it is. Can anyone confirm?

jtakhtalian

It sounds like your rear hatch motor could be on its way out. I have a couple of quarter window motors on a 2001 Ford Excursion that act up only when the temperature is consistently below 55 degrees for a few days. Once spring rolls around in Southern California (or the car warms up enough), all is well again.

In your case, I just checked and the lift cylinder with powerlift option is part# 95851285106 and ranges from $300-$380 depending on where you order from. Replacement time should be around an hour or less for someone whose done it before. I imagine it's a two person job based on the weight of the hatch once the motor is removed.

dbv1

Yah, that's what it's looking like, doesn't sound too difficult but I'll have a buddy over to help with the gate. I found the OEM part online for as low as $270. I'll document the replacement.

140.6er

Did you check the condition of the hatch struts? Start with the cheaper parts..i.e. hatch struts and work to the more expensive hatch motor.

dbv1

Both struts are a little dirty but look undamaged. It looks like the strut contains the motor but I'll confirm with my dealer when I pop over to order a strut.

140.6er

Yes, I think you are correct. The 958 hatch struts are electric damper struts. However, I’m wondering that if you take the strut apart can you just replace the actual strut if the motor is still functioning.

https://sierramadrecollection.com/Re...14-p54605.html

skinnytirez

”open circuit” could be a loose connection. Test with a meter to make sure the motor is getting the incoming power to move, and then use the meter to test the motor itself disconnected from the car.

dbv1

I procrastinated on this until today (the tailgate opens most of the time). My dealer is telling me that the part on my Cayenne got superseded and that the strut should be replaced in pairs (95851285104->95851285106).

edit: the original strut is 7P5 827 851 C and comes with a nice warning about not opening it because there's a high pressure preloaded string in it.

RAudi Driver

Your strut is on it's way out. Just replace them and let us know how much it costs. I'l be being you. Mine is working perfectly but I can tell it's getting a wee bit tired.

Mrg02D

What are the first signs that it’s getting worn?

dbv1

Yeah, enough is enough, I'm ordering them tomorrow and the tow kit too. Dealer wants ~US$300 per strut.

My dealer says that my manual Cayenne will still need to be coded for the tow kit which kind of surprised me.

dbv1

Update with useful info in case someone runs into this: I changed both struts to the updated part 95851285106. So 95851285104 (7P5827851C, 2011 part) isn't interchangeable with 95851285106 so both struts need to be changed. 95851285105 is interchangeable with 95851285106. New struts seem to have a much stronger spring and are substantially quieter.

I can post a how-to on how to change these struts but it doesn't seem like a common problem so probably no need.

BrewDude

You posted a link to the rear shock absorber. Totally different than a strut hatch.

OP I had the same thing happen on my Touareg TDI, but I just milked it until the buyback.