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Working on the air suspension on my 2008 Touareg was pretty darn easy. The multitude of threads about the 958 generation air struts has all but scared me away from touching my CTT's air suspension...
System is totally different, 958 is designed closed/sealed hence the option to use nitrogen. This design decision was to prevent condensation and other contaminants when pulling in outside air.
The issues seem to be related to design of the strut assemblies themselves. The design must simply be less forgiving, hence the more common failure and the aftermarket's struggle to deliver a reliable replacement.
At the risk of jinxing myself, mine are still going strong.
Garrett, how did they fail? Just dropping overnight?
Both top mounts completely wore out, which was really disappointing. They held air perfectly, but if you hit a sharp bump like a speed bump that required quick rebound, it sounded like the top of the shocks were unscrewed from the chassis whenever they would rebound - it would be a metal to metal knocking/crashing sound. I checked and they actually lasted 1 year and 10 months, and fortunately AutohausAZ was great to warrant them both with no questions. After swapping tons of struts on 958s, I truly think the OE design is the only way to go.
Both top mounts completely wore out, which was really disappointing. They held air perfectly, but if you hit a sharp bump like a speed bump that required quick rebound, it sounded like the top of the shocks were unscrewed from the chassis whenever they would rebound - it would be a metal to metal knocking/crashing sound. I checked and they actually lasted 1 year and 10 months, and fortunately AutohausAZ was great to warrant them both with no questions. After swapping tons of struts on 958s, I truly think the OE design is the only way to go.
I agree went the Bilstien route in 2020, I'm now back to OE air springs and dampers.
I was perhaps to hasty in replacing everything with the compressor and valve block, with $200,000 miles figured time wasn't on my side.
If you have the proper tools, start with a new top mount and O-ring seems to be where most leak.
If you have the proper tools, start with a new top mount and O-ring seems to be where most leak.
That's not bad advice, maybe this will be my first port of call. I know you need the specialist 21mm socket (or an angle grinder to make your own), any other specialist tool?
That's not bad advice, maybe this will be my first port of call. I know you need the specialist 21mm socket (or an angle grinder to make your own), any other specialist tool?
Scan tool to draw the nitrogen back into the accumulator, and nitrogen is the system is low like mine was.
Anyone needs help PM me or search some of my other posts
My new-to-me 2011 CT with 116k miles is a bit low in the back in the mornings. Compressor runs for a few seconds and all is good, though I do feel like the rear suspension is a bit harsh sometimes. Maybe it's normal with 21" rims.
If I put it in jack mode, the rear will squat 1" in an hour or two. No trouble codes. Is this all normal?
The only other things I notice is that PASM doesn't seem to make a big difference. It also doesn't seem to make a big difference on my 2013 CS with steel springs so maybe my butt dyno isn't sensitive enough.
I have a PWIS arriving this week. My current scanner says the system has 130L of system air (calculated).
If it needs bags, what's everyone's favorite non-OEM option currently? I have a lift so I'll have to throw it up and see what leaks I can detect.
I guess it's no longer sealed system with 100% nitrogen?
Read through this before you start throwing money away, if your a DIY person very doable..
Otherwise take it to a shop this is not for a novice.|
DM if you need help.
If it needs bags, what's everyone's favourite non-OEM option currently? I have a lift so I'll have to throw it up and see what leaks I can detect.
I guess it's no longer sealed system with 100% nitrogen?
I installed rebuilt Arnott struts probably about three and a half years ago, then paid the dealer to refill them with nitrogen.
I considered buying the stuff to do nitrogen but said screw it; the dealership isn't very far.
First, anytime you work on your suspension, rule #1 is to turn off the unit. What this does is isolates each individual shock away from the rest of the system. Air is now locked in each shock and acculumator is also isolated. You can now raise and lower the vehicle, one wheel at a time, without any adverse effects on the system or other shocks.
The top side of each shock has a brass nut that threads into a pressure control valve. Removing the brass nut does not release air from the shock. To get air out of the shock, you actually need to unscrew the pressure control valve. Doing this will allow the air in the bag to escape. It will not release pressure in any oter shock or the system at all.
To remove the PCV, you first have to unscrew the brass nut (line holder) that is screwed into the PCV. This will release air that is in the line only. It does not empty the air from the system or the shock.
Hope this helps.
So to get a little more specific, when you install the line (with the brass nut and ferrule) this forces the valve open. If the line gets ripped out in some ungodly fashion the PCV closes and acts as a check valve preventing loss of pressure in the bag. Is that about right?
Revisiting this thread because I now have started to experience issues with my 2011 CTT.
I have the same icarscan version shown here and am unable to get any of these procedures to work. They appear to start, but immediately terminate.
However, the icarscan does read a good number of variables associated with the level system (psi, qty, heights, etc).
I also borrowed an older icarsoft from a friend--it was able to read a very similar set of variables but had NO listed procedures/calibrations.
Originally Posted by deilenberger
Took a snapshot of the air-suspension (aka Leveling) page in iCarScan. There are also pages where you can read live data. Those work, although what some of the pages are telling me are a tad confusing..
I did not try any of these functions since my system is working and I don't want to screw it up by screwing around with it.. so I can't say for sure if they all work or not. If anyone wants to play sometime - perhaps someone under warranty - we could explore some of the options here if you can get your P!G to the NJ shore area for a few hours.
08-02-2023, 05:23 PM
