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open up the broken one - be careful disengaging the linkages - spin the motor a bit, maybe a little deoxit - get it back together again and it will most likely work again - keep it as a spare??
OEM sleeve joined the cat back section? There has to be a reducer on there as the Milltek is a 70mm system. All Piping in the Milltek system, whether it be the cat delete pipe or the cat back pipes are 70mm. The Turbo is a 65mm system and the S cold be the same of a 63.5 mm system.
Went right together like I said. First one was a little off so milltek sent a new one that was probably custom to my specs.
Anyone got some tips to get the driveshaft back on with the rear diff? I am having a hard time.
It's a quick fast jerk of a movement to get it on; slowly pressing hard won't get it very easily. If you can't get it by hand slamming it into place, line up a wood drift and give it a hit with a heavy hammer.
It's a quick fast jerk of a movement to get it on; slowly pressing hard won't get it very easily. If you can't get it by hand slamming it into place, line up a wood drift and give it a hit with a heavy hammer.
Thank you. I was actually searching around other post and wanted to ask you. Glad you saw and reply!
My driveshaft disconnected last week due to only one bolt holding the carrier bearing. The other bolt is broken half way inside the hole. I guess this happened when they put a new cardan shaft in 2022 or when the new transfer case was put in. The shaft finally make its way out. I was actually drilling the bolt out today. When I was knocking the extractor in, the welded nut came out. I think I am going to get a locking nut at home depot.
And while I was in there I figure I'd might as well install an OEM tow package I sourced together with a used tow bar from E-Motion Engineering, an OEM tow module from eBay, new wire harness, bolts, and bracket from Sunset Porsche Parts, and a Porsche Crest hitch cover for good measure.
02-16-2024, 11:44 PM
