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I have a 2004 Cayenne S with the dreaded tapping and have a used motor ready to install. I understand the torque converter bolts are the worst to remove. Without buying the expensive tools that Porsche requires to remove the torque converter bolts from the transmission so that the engine can be removed from the top, any guidance? Any tool tricks used. I don't want to spend $336.16 on a Torque Wrench Adapter and $74.98 on a Torque Converter Bolt Tool that will be used one time. Please help!
It's a standard triple square, I don't remember the size off hand. I have a set like this, and it worked just fine.
I did find it MUCH easier to deal with them when the entire front sub-frame was on the floor. I would recommend pulling it from the bottom if at all possible.
if you use tall jack stands, there should be enough clearance. It doesn't need to drop very far to make access a breeze. The challenge will be managing the subframe assembly once it's free from the car it is very heavy.
looks like you pulled the engine and tranny together. If I pull the subframe will the transmission have enough support or is additional support required. Sorry for all the dumb questions, I just completed a head rebuild on my other 2003 cayenne S and it wasn't that much fun either. But she runs great now...
The transmission is mounted directly to the same subframe assembly. It's far easier to just remove it all as a unit. All you have to remove from the transmission is the rear cardan shaft. It stays connected to the transfer case, front differential, etc.
The new engine is in. This was likely the hardest engine to install from the top. There is very little room to maneuver and get the fasteners in place easily. There is a lot of assembly disassembly that needs to take place to get this engine in the car again, and it was enormously frustrating to make it through each hour with various setbacks. I can see why even non-P workshops don't want to take on this project. If there is a next time it will go faster as now I know practically all the machinations of removing and installing this engine. If you have a lift or access to one, it is far far easier than pulling the engine from the front. Good luck to you all that will tackle this, mine sounds beautiful again!
Congrats on your project and thanks for the very useful advice and insights offered.
I'm about to tackle the same task in a 2005 Cayenne S that is blowing smoke like a house on fire. one quart every 200 miles. I'm thinking valve stem seals failed on number 8 cylinder, which fouls in a heartbeat. With a clean plug it runs strong.
Need to do more testing before I take the plunge, but has anyone replaced the valve stem seals on this beast?
So if you think it is just the head, you will still need to remove much of the top side of the engine and access to the exhaust manifold is really challenging. I have a lift now, so we just drop the engine and trans as an assembly so we can access all around. good luck.
Congrats on your project and thanks for the very useful advice and insights offered.
I'm about to tackle the same task in a 2005 Cayenne S that is blowing smoke like a house on fire. one quart every 200 miles. I'm thinking valve stem seals failed on number 8 cylinder, which fouls in a heartbeat. With a clean plug it runs strong.
Need to do more testing before I take the plunge, but has anyone replaced the valve stem seals on this beast?
Any advice greatly appreciated...
MUCH more likely bore failure. You might want to look at the stickies for details on a survey we did here. FWIW - I have never heard of authenticated valve stem seal failures on the V8 Cayenne engines. Unfortunately - we've all heard of many cases of bore failures. I think you might want to start looking for a good used engine.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news - but going to trouble of replacing the seals to find out it has no effect on your problem would really be rather painful.