You're lucky. One of the fittings on mine was cracked in such a way that tape never had any effect. I had to replace both of the vacuum lines. The companion project of replacing the wiper arms with the newer style made it worth the effort.

 

I was thinking about replacing the lines anyways. What's the deal with the new wiper arms?

 

wanted to share some data points on oil consumption:

When I got the car, I put some autozone castrol 5w40 in just to have a "known" mileage oil in it. Over the ~6000miles that oil was in the car, I got the low level light several times and had to top off with at least 2 quarts, even after I replaced the charge pipe oring.

I replaced that oil with Motul 5w40 xcess, which I use in the 996, and after 4100 miles, 2000 of which were towing about 5k lbs, the low level light hasn't come on at all. I checked the level today because I thought it was broken. I topped it off with maybe 1/3 or 1/2 a quart. Just one data point, and anecdotal.

 

Some more info on my towing experience: even though my CTT is an 04, when installing a brake controller I had the same issues as appears on later Cayennes. I think this is because I installed the later G revision tow module. The problem is that the "stoplight" signal doesn't stay at 0V when the brake is not depressed, but oscillates between 0-6V. This makes the controller apply trailer brakes even when you're not on them. The fix is listed in a tekonsha TSB; install a 12V normally open single-pole single-throw relay into the harness between the car's plug and the controller. This acts as a gate and only allows voltages 12V or greater through. I've enjoyed the Tekonsha P3 and recommend it. The car sounds awesome under boost pulling the trailer, and is stable. I did load the trailer too far forward once, and the combo of a lot of luggage and too much tongue weight cause the air suspension to run constantly. Backing the car up a few inches on the trailer fixed the problem.
My only remaining problem is driveshaft imbalance. I started getting major knocking in the tunnel, and even after installing the vertex EPS bearing support, I still do.

If you have a vertex rebuilt shaft, there is an outer metal shelol on the bearing. After you clean the rubber off, you have to cut it off too. This pic shows the bearing with the shell still in place; the eps won't fit over the shell.

 

Wow lots to share. Driveshaft bangs around really as much as ever even with the vertex EPS support. My transmission mount was totally collapsed so I replaced that today. You have to really grind a taper into the new mount to get it in. I took a UOA sample on some Motul with 6100 miles. I am still spraying oil under boost from the driver's side inter cooler (yes I put a new
x-ring in). I successfully did a headlight harness mod, and reapplied the duct tape and hose clamp mod to fix the "brake booster faulty" warning. I completed wiring up the cables for my hitch-mounted winch. That project was pretty cool. I also finished the internal muffler bypass mod. I'm not too enthused about that mod, because all you hear under throttle is whooshing sounds from boost.

Old mount installed, new mount in hand.





Even with a press, this takes an hour or more to make happen.





New mount is in- notice how it isn't bottomed out. Raised the trans an inch or so.

 

Driver side rear footwell- the mysterious cableway.





In front of the back left wheel.





Goes back to the driver side cubby





Coming from the rear cubby to the cableway in the rear footwell





The power distribution rail under the seat. The thing with the yellow button is the Tyco Partition Element, whatever that means.





The forward side of the cableway.<br/> This is under the driver seat,behind the battery.





My winch cable goes where secondary battery cable would go. I am unclear on if the Tyco partition element has any sort of fusing or protecting capabilities.





Finished hitch winch with wiring quick disconnect (forklift connector). The cable runs out a grommet in the cubby above the driver's side exhaust tips. The forklift connector just sits wedged between the body and heat shield when not in use.<br/>Yes, this gets a lot of odd looks.

 

Dirty throttle body





Clean throttle body. Did not impact driving. Still have idle dip. Do not recommend bothering to do this.

 

Idle dip is likely the main engine mounts. The engine torques a bit coming to a stop from the transmission coming out of lockup, but with worn mounts you now feel that vibration. With good mounts, you don't notice it.

Why not just get a rebuilt driveshaft and call it a day?

 

Next on the to-do list:

Engine mounts ($400)
Control arms ($500?)
Fuel pumps, filters, pressure regulator ($800)
Driveshaft? ($350?)

I may just light the car on fire before doing these absurdly expensive things.

 

Is your voltage dipping substantially when stopping? Is this what you are getting at when you mention idle dip? My voltage drops quite noticeably when coming to a stop. If that can be cured by a mechanical fix with new engine mounts, I'm all for it.

 

How do you know your voltage is dipping?

 

Voltmeter! Specifically, I did a bit of logging with the Durametric. And I can feel the engine hum slightly differently when it occurs.

 

Do get the same voltage drop and shutter after hitting the power windows switch up when windows are already closed? I'm getting same shutter with both mentioned procedures. I thought it was a sign of alternator issue ?

 

I'm not experiencing voltage problems. When I say idle dip, I mean the RPMs drop below idle as the car comes to a stop, the whole car shudders a bit, then the RPMs return to idle.

 

Agreed and agreed. When the existing center bearing support broke, I needed the cayenne back on the road ASAP to tow a BMW I was selling. The vertex EPS was installable in an afternoon, and since I'm in FL, I got the part from vertex basically the next day. Also my current shaft is a vertex rebuilt shaft from 2012...unknown miles but it must have been a rough 3 years since it started banging around already.