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However, I will mention that using it was really annoying if the wheels were on with trying to manipulate it in there and then have it not get caught on the shroud on the back.
Still it was helpful to know the status since I knew I was getting close. (both the indy and the dealership said they needed to be changed ASAP....and that just wasn't the case).
Anyone purchased and installed the EBC Ultimax Slotted Rotors or EBC Sport Rotors (seems they recommend these Sport versions for SUVs) for the rear?
Leaning on the EBC Sport Rotors for the rear and OEM for the front with EBC yellow pads all around. Anyone install EBC yellow with the CTTS front OEM rotors? Better bite, less fade, worse, etc..?
Do the EBC pads have the slot to mount the OEM pad sensors?
Last edited by madburg; 08-25-2016 at 03:24 AM.
Reason: pad sensors
I have the Ultimax rotors on the rear and EBC Yellows all around on my CTTS. I'm very happy with them. They dust almost as much as OEM, a bit less. Cold driveability is good, comparable to OEM. They do cost less than OEM which is a bonus and seem to be a little easier on the Rotors which is another Bonus. I have heard to stay away from the EBC Reds though as they can't handle the heat and will leave deposits on the rotors which will give a warped feeling (From both a Audi as well as a BMW forum). Yellows are the way to go although I haven't checked out there new pads, they have the new extra duty light truck pad.
Thanks for sharing hahnmgh63, most appreciated. Better comfort level now before i go that route. Did the EBC pads have the slot to mount the OEM pad sensors?
Yes, they have the slots. After a few years the brake sensors will crack when you try to remove them so it isn't very often they can be re-used. They're fairly cheap to replace.
So my 06 CTTS being my first porsche ever i am still learning, always. I found this thread which i found very informative. I purchase this car as a second owner with 45k miles. Currently at 71k miles. I saw that the front calipers were mistreated as someone chipped the paint, looks like from pounding the mounting pin in. So my thought was the pads where at least changed and had a lot of meat on them. As i serviced the car i never felt the brake where adequate. So i had teflon brake lines installed and brake fluid change. Still felt like the brakes fade under pressure, car is so fast but sinking feeling she is not stopping hard enough. I lived with it. Now at 71k miles i hear this noise on the front wheels at very slow speeds like the dust shield is rubbing and also the pads are scraping (same sound as if you turned a rotor on a machine). If i get a chance to push the car and use the brake then later there is no sound, after a cool down the next day the same thing. So i assumed it must be time to replace rotors, pads, hardware. I got the digital meter in today and removed the front left wheel where i hear the most noise from. Rotor average 37.2. So firstly hope my understanding is correct. New rotors are 38mm, recommend replacement is 36mm so am i at the halfway mark (technically)? and i see plenty of meat on the pads. Proceed to put her in Neutral and slowly spin the rotor, the dust shield is definitely not rubbing. But looking at the pads i can see that there is a large buildup (caked up) of brake dust in the inner part of the rotor where it meets the floating portion of the rotor and you can see the pad do make contact there. Looking at the OPs picture as worn as they were he didn't have this build up. Also while spinning the rotor i do feel where for a lack of better words it catches and that where i heard that scraping sound. Could this be something like a run out issue i have been reading about elsewhere? And lastly what i noticed is the colors of the rotor, not silverish like the rear rotor nor like the OPs well worn front rotors, my are like brownish/blueish. I am attaching pictures and hope for some advices. My rear rotors are 27+mm so also seem into half their lifespan with meat on the pads and evenly worn rotors unlike the fronts. Really appreciate any advice. Would it be worth taking them to be turned at this halfway mark? etc...
Arrow is where the ring of buildup is around the inner part of the rotor
Arrow is where the ring of buildup is around the inner part of the rotor. Notice the center of the rotor blueish and the two outside rings are brownish
Yes, they have the slots. After a few years the brake sensors will crack when you try to remove them so it isn't very often they can be re-used. They're fairly cheap to replace.
Not unusual to see that on the inside of the rotor but I think it is more of a situation where the pad just isn't getting full contact. If you replace just the pads, and I think both the EBC Yellows and Hawk LTS pads are chamfered so the break-in well but you need to drive easy on them if possible for the first 100+ miles. Before mounting new pads you should take some fine to medium emory cloth or Sandpaper (180+ grit) and etch the rotors on both sides as best as possible to get any brake glaze off of them.
Never turn a rotor as many old timers do. If you need it trued up you need someone who can do it with a flywheel grinder. That's the way they come from the factory and why you see the cross hatching like in a cylinder wall.
The rotors would have to come off in order to sand the back side of the rotors though, right? as I recall the dust guard on the back side would not allow access.
08-24-2016, 11:27 AM
