jo-hans

nm

BobbySpeed

This is fantastic!
My Cardan shaft isn't making a whirring sound, but my Indy showed me the play. I was driving today and had to floor it to get away from an idiot and I got a heck of a bang when the tranny downshifted.
My Indy hooked my car up to the computer and said no codes came up, so it isn't the valve body. I've read that the valve bodies don't throw codes, so it concerns me that I may need to do my cardan shaft and the valve body.
Obviously, the Jimi-fix the way for me to go because if my bang is fixed after applying this fix, I know my valve body is okay for now (now you know what I'm doing this week).
Where are you folks getting the tubing? Run down to the chain auto parts store, or go to the VW & Audi dealer?

BobbySpeed

What tubing are you using? Something I can get from my local auto parts store?

Turbodan

guys if you have the original rubber in yours or have replaced it with a proper rubber bearing, I was told you should periodically lubricate it so the rubber doesn't dry out and crack. I was told the best thing to use is some oil for rustproofing. just an fyi. I had mine changed with an aftermarket bearing on my wife's Touareg.

Shawn Stanford

Well, the Jimmy-fix was done with stuff Jimmy had laying around in his shop, so the tubing couldn't have been exotic. If it was me, I'd run down to the local auto parts store and start squeezing tubing. You want something that won't easily deform. Other than that, it's not being exposed to excessive heat, sun, or caustic chemicals, so I don't think it needs to be NASA-level stuff.

ciscorp

If you plan on replacing the center support bearing and doing a bench job on the current drive shaft, its more work then you think and you 're in for a few surprises.
1. The center support bearing bellows metal end is attached to the shaft with a rolled crimp that must be pried off to separate the CV joint. Most likely you will destroy the bellows crimped metal end when you remove it from the shaft. I have not seen Just the bellows for sale. You must buy it with the new center support bearing as a kit. Cost $100 - $200
2. You Don't need a wheel puller to remove the CV Gear on the end of the drive shaft or the support bearing. Clean all the grease off and you will see that the gear and the bearing are held in place with C-Clips.
3. You will want to repack the CV grease in both of the CV Joints. Real Messy Stuff. $10 for CV grease.
4. The big rubber Flex Plate attached to the Transfer Case should be replaced as well which can cost $110 - $200.
5. The drive shaft and rubber Flex Plate should be balanced as one unit. Good Luck finding a Drive Shaft Shop that has the necessary machine hook up to balance a Porsche drive shaft. Cost about $100 to balance a shaft.

DIY Total Cost: $220 - $410

Why do all that work when you can buy a New Complete Assembled Drive Shaft including the Flex Plate and Balanced as one unit for $250 with free shipping and No Core Charge. You will also need to buy & replace the six bolts on the rear CV Joint connection to the rear differential. Link for Shaft. No Affiliation.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/proptechnix/...p2047675.l2562

Dilberto

Jimi used Kevlar reinforced, 5/8" coolant hose and thick 1/4" zip ties. It will take constant, direct monster heat to collapse these hose pieces anytime soon. With the center support bearing cross member bolted-up.....you'd NEVER know of his work simply because everything is cleanly obscured. As of today - I have 13,883 miles on his fix.....with NO signs of letting-up!

hahnmgh63

Also never lubricate the rubber bushing in the Center support bearing with any Petroleum products (Oil or Grease) as mentioned above. Petroleum will accelerate the Breakdown of almost all rubber products. If you think you need to lubricate it don't put anything on except a 100% Silicone grease like one of the Dow Corning products. I use Dow 111 on some rubber parts and seals but I myself wouldn't lubricate the Center Support Bearing Rubber bushing.

deilenberger

Have you used one of these? I assume these are the Chinese manufactured shafts - and wonder how the quality is.. (since you pretty much get what you pay for when manufacturing is done in China..)

Good?

Shawn Stanford

My brother and I rebuilt my cardan shaft in my driveway. I found a couple of excellent tutorials here on Rennlist and there were no surprises. The only tool I needed to buy was the big star drive for the rear bolts. The rest of it is standard tools. I did the crush collar with a flat-head screwdriver and a mallet and had no problems. I didn't replace the rubber flex plate (still holding, nearing 130k). I paid $60 for the new center bearing assembly, and spent a few hours on a summer Saturday playing with cars in the garage.

Shawn Stanford

I love this so much...

Wisconsin Joe

Yeah. Me too.

One of the few problems with mine is that the rubber around the bearing is going. This fix is going in (probably) this week.

ciscorp

I just installed one and only have about 2 k miles on it. You could contact the company Propshaft Technix and inquire who makes the shaft. The shaft I replaced had not broken free yet but the rubber was cracked all the way around the support bearing and it was due for replacement in about 10 K miles. I replaced the shaft early because I starting towing a boat. New or Rebuilt the shaft support bearing seems to only last about 60 k. The Dealer replaced the last shaft and the shaft from Propshaft Technix has less vibration. My point is you can spend a lot of time and even more money rebuilding your current shaft yourself virus buying a new or already rebuilt shaft, if you elect to replace the entire shaft due to the failed support bearing rubber.

BobbySpeed

Okay, I replaced my valve body and the transfer case and transaxle fluids while under the car. I drove the car a bit and the shifting is very smoooooth. So I started pushing it a little, and don't you know it- the Cardan shaft started thumping away about a mile away from home while driving casual. Going back under in the next day or two.

Metatron04955CTT

Hey Deilenberger, Did you end up using this Propshaft Technix Drive Shaft? If so how is it quality etc…

Cheers