Cardan Shaft?
08-28-2015, 10:11 AM
#91
Rennlist Member
I've done the entire shaft. All you need is the new shaft and some hand tools. You can do it in your driveway and you probably won't even need to lift the car (depending on how big of a guy you are). The toughest thing is breaking the rear of the shaft loose from the rear diff, because it tends to rust into place. Various methods have been used, including putting the truck into gear and letting the torque pop it off. I used a ratchet strap to the front crossmember and a hammer. There are a couple of really good pictorials here, just search for 'cardan shaft'.
08-28-2015, 10:29 AM
#92
Rennlist Member
I did the entire shaft swap as well. I did have to loosen the exhaust on the passenger side just a bit. As stated, a bit of sticking issue between shaft and rear diff but nothing that couldn't be separated with some PB blaster. Easy DIY, I would give it a 3-4 out of 10 in difficulty.
08-28-2015, 12:36 PM
#94
If you plan on replacing the center support bearing and doing a bench job on the current drive shaft, its more work then you think and you 're in for a few surprises.
1. The center support bearing bellows metal end is attached to the shaft with a rolled crimp that must be pried off to separate the CV joint. Most likely you will destroy the bellows crimped metal end when you remove it from the shaft. I have not seen Just the bellows for sale. You must buy it with the new center support bearing as a kit. Cost $100 - $200
2. You Don't need a wheel puller to remove the CV Gear on the end of the drive shaft or the support bearing. Clean all the grease off and you will see that the gear and the bearing are held in place with C-Clips.
3. You will want to repack the CV grease in both of the CV Joints. Real Messy Stuff. $10 for CV grease.
4. The big rubber Flex Plate attached to the Transfer Case should be replaced as well which can cost $110 - $200.
5. The drive shaft and rubber Flex Plate should be balanced as one unit. Good Luck finding a Drive Shaft Shop that has the necessary machine hook up to balance a Porsche drive shaft. Cost about $100 to balance a shaft.
DIY Total Cost: $220 - $410
Why do all that work when you can buy a New Complete Assembled Drive Shaft including the Flex Plate and Balanced as one unit for $250 with free shipping and No Core Charge. You will also need to buy & replace the six bolts on the rear CV Joint connection to the rear differential. Link for Shaft. No Affiliation.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/proptechnix/...p2047675.l2562
1. The center support bearing bellows metal end is attached to the shaft with a rolled crimp that must be pried off to separate the CV joint. Most likely you will destroy the bellows crimped metal end when you remove it from the shaft. I have not seen Just the bellows for sale. You must buy it with the new center support bearing as a kit. Cost $100 - $200
2. You Don't need a wheel puller to remove the CV Gear on the end of the drive shaft or the support bearing. Clean all the grease off and you will see that the gear and the bearing are held in place with C-Clips.
3. You will want to repack the CV grease in both of the CV Joints. Real Messy Stuff. $10 for CV grease.
4. The big rubber Flex Plate attached to the Transfer Case should be replaced as well which can cost $110 - $200.
5. The drive shaft and rubber Flex Plate should be balanced as one unit. Good Luck finding a Drive Shaft Shop that has the necessary machine hook up to balance a Porsche drive shaft. Cost about $100 to balance a shaft.
DIY Total Cost: $220 - $410
Why do all that work when you can buy a New Complete Assembled Drive Shaft including the Flex Plate and Balanced as one unit for $250 with free shipping and No Core Charge. You will also need to buy & replace the six bolts on the rear CV Joint connection to the rear differential. Link for Shaft. No Affiliation.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/proptechnix/...p2047675.l2562
SRS - not a stupid question at all! Please see the above post, copied from Post #51.
Apparently taking apart the shaft, removing the bearing, etc., etc. is a big pain in the butt, and depending on the cost of the parts you replace, can actually be more expensive than just replacing the entire shaft. I have seen the complete shafts on-line for almost $1k, and if this was the case, then just replacing the bearing looks a lot better. But for $260 it seems better to just replace the whole thing.
08-28-2015, 12:41 PM
#95
Intermediate
Thanks SEESNAX, but if the bearings are ok and just the rubber portion of the support is worn, that wouldn't warrant a whole shaft replacement, would it? Or is it just a safe practice to replace it all while you're in there?
Thanks again
Thanks again
08-28-2015, 01:15 PM
#96
Rennlist Member
I was able to find a new shaft for a good price. Time is $$, I didn't want to spend countless hrs trying to swap out a center section or ship my shaft to be fixed. I was able to perform the swap in approx. 1 hr and was over and done with.
If someone is interested in spending time fixing a shaft, I have the core that I would happily sell. Could save someone time as it could be sent as core to get it fixed while your vehicle is not tied up.
If someone is interested in spending time fixing a shaft, I have the core that I would happily sell. Could save someone time as it could be sent as core to get it fixed while your vehicle is not tied up.
08-28-2015, 01:24 PM
#97
It does not warrant a complete shaft replacement, but again, by the time you spend the effort to remove the old bearing and associated parts, you could have a whole new shaft + bearing installed. There are replacement aftermarket bearings available (again, read through this entire thread from start-to-finish), but it seems like they actually cost as much if not more than the shaft assembly linked above on eBay. And you have to take apart your shaft to replace the bearing (I think). In my mind, why wouldn't you just go ahead and replace the whole thing? That was the premise of my first post above.
Maybe there is something I am missing? Shawn Stanford and 968TurboS replaced the entire shaft, according to their posts above; Shawn - why did you decide on replacing the entire thing as opposed to just the bearing? 968 TurboS - same question?
* NOTE: Not trying to direct this thread away from the Jimmy-fix, just trying to understand.
EDIT: Looks like 968TurboS already responded!
Maybe there is something I am missing? Shawn Stanford and 968TurboS replaced the entire shaft, according to their posts above; Shawn - why did you decide on replacing the entire thing as opposed to just the bearing? 968 TurboS - same question?
* NOTE: Not trying to direct this thread away from the Jimmy-fix, just trying to understand.
EDIT: Looks like 968TurboS already responded!
08-28-2015, 01:41 PM
#98
Rennlist Member
Seesnax, I didn't want to deal with the headache of doing all the work involved in swapping the bearing. It's my wife's primary vehicle so I try not to experiment too much with it.
The new shaft was a factory oem supplier, not what is being linked to Ebay. I would be careful about lower quality shafts.
This is what I got:
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...8cUAwpAHA.aspx
I rather do it once, do it right and not worry about it.
The new shaft was a factory oem supplier, not what is being linked to Ebay. I would be careful about lower quality shafts.
This is what I got:
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...8cUAwpAHA.aspx
I rather do it once, do it right and not worry about it.
08-28-2015, 05:14 PM
#100
Intermediate
No, I'm not trying to direct the post away from the Jimmy-fix either. What I'm asking is, if the only thing that's wrong is the bearing support (aka Jimmy-Fix) why not just replace it (Jimmy-fix or aftermarket part), rather than the whole shaft/bearing?
For example, if you hear the "little man beating on the center console", so you check the bearing support, and you see that it is worn out, why replace the whole shaft/bearing, why not just the bearing support?
For example, if you hear the "little man beating on the center console", so you check the bearing support, and you see that it is worn out, why replace the whole shaft/bearing, why not just the bearing support?
08-28-2015, 07:13 PM
#101
Nordschleife Master
No, I'm not trying to direct the post away from the Jimmy-fix either. What I'm asking is, if the only thing that's wrong is the bearing support (aka Jimmy-Fix) why not just replace it (Jimmy-fix or aftermarket part), rather than the whole shaft/bearing?
For example, if you hear the "little man beating on the center console", so you check the bearing support, and you see that it is worn out, why replace the whole shaft/bearing, why not just the bearing support?
For example, if you hear the "little man beating on the center console", so you check the bearing support, and you see that it is worn out, why replace the whole shaft/bearing, why not just the bearing support?
Unfortunately, if the person driving the car keeps driving after the "midget with the hammer" starts under the center console, the bearing will soon be damaged. Which means replacing the bearing, or whole shaft (depending on personal choices).
Or you believe the dealer that the bad bearing support means paying the full $1500 price for the entire new shaft (which is kind of a "two-for-one" on shafts
).
08-28-2015, 10:12 PM
#103
Drifting
Join Date: Dec 2001
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In looking at the pic of that shaft, it would appear the rubber support has not been updated (probably not if it is an actual Porsche shaft).
Just keep that in mind because the rubber support will fail on that shaft again - most likely faster than an aftermarket shaft or jimmyfix/other fixes.
Just keep that in mind because the rubber support will fail on that shaft again - most likely faster than an aftermarket shaft or jimmyfix/other fixes.
08-28-2015, 10:16 PM
#104
Drifting
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....speaking of jimmy fixes, I finally got around to taking my fix down from 13 tubes to 8.
The noise I had before is almost non-existent - verrrrry slight now; which tells me, perhaps the tubes I am using are a tad too hard.
I "may" go back under (did the fix repair this time without even jacking up the car - much easier if you don't have to scrap all the old rubber off, etc.) and replace all the tubes with softer ones and see if that makes it even better.
The noise I had before is almost non-existent - verrrrry slight now; which tells me, perhaps the tubes I am using are a tad too hard.
I "may" go back under (did the fix repair this time without even jacking up the car - much easier if you don't have to scrap all the old rubber off, etc.) and replace all the tubes with softer ones and see if that makes it even better.
08-31-2015, 11:50 AM
#105
Rennlist Member
If the Jimmie-fix had existed at the time, it would have absolutely done that instead of tearing it all down.