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Does anyone know where to purchase the specialty tool required to perform the torque converter seal replacement. My car is in the shop and mechanic cant seem to locate the tool. Your help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED
Does anybody know the part number on the tools? It is the insert tool, the centering pin and the fixing pin. If anyone does know that would be sooo amazing. I still can not find the tools so my car is stuck in the shop
Becasue if you were close enough I would offer some suggestions on where to find it.
You can call "3Zero3 Motorsports" in Wheatridge, CO at 303-456-8383. They may have a set they would sell, or a dealer they can get it through and ship to you. They did my seal replacement for me. Great guys and gals there.
resurrection of an old post...
does anyone know what the tool looks like or how it works?
does it somehow separate the flex plate and torque converter, or does the flex plate simply slip off the crank when tranny is pulled with the 'dowel pin' in place?
If it is a VW/Audi tool, give a call to Zelenda at (888) 892-8348. I have bought many specialty tools from them over the years, very pleased with their service. As a caution, these tools are not inexpensive.
Ok noob alert! I am preparing to replace my valve body, fluid, filter, etc. Is the torque converter seal a relatively common issue that should be done at the same time? I am imaging you have to dig deeper into the transmission to do it... Basically I don't want to fix my valve body only to have some other wear part start acting up.
don't touch the torque converter seal unless its leaking. the other stuff you are suggesting is done with trans IN the car. torque converter seal requires trans OUT of car. not pretty. its huge. the bolts on mine were 'almighty tight' as dad used to say. I am strong with many years of experience and breaking the flex plate bolts and bell housing bolts loose was well in excess of 200 foot pounds (long handle 1/2" drive with about 18" of 1" black pipe on and ALL my strength). The 'cheese heads' (triple square) on the flex plate bolts stripped (three or four of them). I got all but one without the air chisel. Air chiseled the last one. I rented a 'good' us-built tranny jack and it was a lifesaver. I had the jack for a bit over two weeks while drilling, extractoring, and finally air chiselling. all through a 1" x 1.5" hole in the engine casting. getting the cats on and off is another PITA. wouldn't want to do a turbo without removing engine / trans together. With a lift and knowing exactly how to do this and having everything go right, it will take 12 hours. The bolts go back in with something like 60 foot pounds---trivial compared to breaking them loose. gets new driveshaft bolts (they torque, then turn more to yield, thus making them 'one-use'.) I put in about 7 qts of Mobil 3309(so far), new filter, cleaned magnets, tried to drain torque converter, and on and on and on. Once you get it out you can see if you have 'new roller bearing pump' or 'old sleeve bearing pump' and pick your seal. very slight diameter difference on TC shaft. I found instructions on line that were helpful....in fact, I am back on this page looking for the number of the tool to unbolt the flex plate because if you google that you will find a link to the service manual pdf...i don't have it on this computer....
resurrection of an old post...
does anyone know what the tool looks like or how it works?
does it somehow separate the flex plate and torque converter, or does the flex plate simply slip off the crank when tranny is pulled with the 'dowel pin' in place?
The tool to unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate is a triple square bit that goes to a curved extension. I have removed a tranny without this tool, but had to use a variety of lengths of triple square sockets, and a couple of different -sized short extensions.
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