Chasing more ride comfort in my 200k mile 04 CTT. Where do I begin?
#31
Racer
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If I was replacing air shocks on anything except a low mileage (read valuable) 957 CTTS, I’d just get a set of new ones from meissler automotive. It’s something like $900 for both front complete units, supposedly German made too.
#32
Racer
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I haven't done anything yet with the struts. New brakes and fluids at 100k now are kweping me busy. Plus the outrageous cost of OE ones.
i am gonna try and do some compressing tests, with all the air out of the springs, to see if i can tell if the struts themselves are bad.
i really want to keep the adjustabilityv of the OE shocks as I can still feel the difference, i just think there are some dead spots in the travel.
meissler units im assuming are passive.
i am gonna try and do some compressing tests, with all the air out of the springs, to see if i can tell if the struts themselves are bad.
i really want to keep the adjustabilityv of the OE shocks as I can still feel the difference, i just think there are some dead spots in the travel.
meissler units im assuming are passive.
#33
Racer
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I haven't done anything yet with the struts. New brakes and fluids at 100k now are kweping me busy. Plus the outrageous cost of OE ones.
i am gonna try and do some compressing tests, with all the air out of the springs, to see if i can tell if the struts themselves are bad.
i really want to keep the adjustabilityv of the OE shocks as I can still feel the difference, i just think there are some dead spots in the travel.
meissler units im assuming are passive.
i am gonna try and do some compressing tests, with all the air out of the springs, to see if i can tell if the struts themselves are bad.
i really want to keep the adjustabilityv of the OE shocks as I can still feel the difference, i just think there are some dead spots in the travel.
meissler units im assuming are passive.
#35
Racer
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BobcatBrian,
thanks for the push!
it appears they do maintain the adjustability!
They have a remanufactured version and a new strut assembly!
https://www.miessler-automotive.com/...ut-front-right
https://www.miessler-automotive.com/...ut-front-right
This is a great option, the whole strut for $600.
Now, can I get them shipped to the US?
Ill investigate more and ask the main differences between the new vs remanufactured!
thanks for the push!
it appears they do maintain the adjustability!
They have a remanufactured version and a new strut assembly!
https://www.miessler-automotive.com/...ut-front-right
https://www.miessler-automotive.com/...ut-front-right
This is a great option, the whole strut for $600.
Now, can I get them shipped to the US?
Ill investigate more and ask the main differences between the new vs remanufactured!
#36
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BobcatBrian,
thanks for the push!
it appears they do maintain the adjustability!
They have a remanufactured version and a new strut assembly!
https://www.miessler-automotive.com/...ut-front-right
https://www.miessler-automotive.com/...ut-front-right
This is a great option, the whole strut for $600.
Now, can I get them shipped to the US?
Ill investigate more and ask the main differences between the new vs remanufactured!
thanks for the push!
it appears they do maintain the adjustability!
They have a remanufactured version and a new strut assembly!
https://www.miessler-automotive.com/...ut-front-right
https://www.miessler-automotive.com/...ut-front-right
This is a great option, the whole strut for $600.
Now, can I get them shipped to the US?
Ill investigate more and ask the main differences between the new vs remanufactured!
#37
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#38
Racer
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They have a USA website but it seems to be down for maintenance right now. I think pricing and shipping is USA based vs their German website.
#39
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Did these the other week while the whole drivetrain was out to replace the bloody torque converter seal.
Replacing those mounts was probably the hardest part of the whole job, and believe me there were MANY very difficult parts to it.
Reading on these forums, a lot of people have just given up on doing mounts on the CTT because of how inaccessible they are, but after a lot of cursing and sketchy manoeuvring of the two seperate subframes, those suckers are in there and the difference is very noticeable.
Replacing those mounts was probably the hardest part of the whole job, and believe me there were MANY very difficult parts to it.
Reading on these forums, a lot of people have just given up on doing mounts on the CTT because of how inaccessible they are, but after a lot of cursing and sketchy manoeuvring of the two seperate subframes, those suckers are in there and the difference is very noticeable.
#40
Racer
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tassieporsche, Im one of those persons! I want it done but dreading the cost.
If I plan to keep her longer, Im gonna have to bite the bullet and pay someone to do it. I guess thats why dealers have (or maybe its "had" nowadays) those subframe platform/jigs to help with dropping things for services like engine mounts.
I think I would be skilled enough, as I have done everything else service/repair wise, but I dont have the lift, time, hoist, etc. to do it myself.
Did you do this yourself, at home, on a CTT?
If I plan to keep her longer, Im gonna have to bite the bullet and pay someone to do it. I guess thats why dealers have (or maybe its "had" nowadays) those subframe platform/jigs to help with dropping things for services like engine mounts.
I think I would be skilled enough, as I have done everything else service/repair wise, but I dont have the lift, time, hoist, etc. to do it myself.
Did you do this yourself, at home, on a CTT?
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tassieporsche (07-12-2024)
#41
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tassieporsche, Im one of those persons! I want it done but dreading the cost.
If I plan to keep her longer, Im gonna have to bite the bullet and pay someone to do it. I guess thats why dealers have (or maybe its "had" nowadays) those subframe platform/jigs to help with dropping things for services like engine mounts.
I think I would be skilled enough, as I have done everything else service/repair wise, but I dont have the lift, time, hoist, etc. to do it myself.
Did you do this yourself, at home, on a CTT?
If I plan to keep her longer, Im gonna have to bite the bullet and pay someone to do it. I guess thats why dealers have (or maybe its "had" nowadays) those subframe platform/jigs to help with dropping things for services like engine mounts.
I think I would be skilled enough, as I have done everything else service/repair wise, but I dont have the lift, time, hoist, etc. to do it myself.
Did you do this yourself, at home, on a CTT?
If you can avoid it I wouldn't worry though, the only reason I did this on mine was to replace the torque converter seal as it was haemorrhaging transmission fluid onto my driveway. The only other reasons I would do an engine out on one of these is to replace damaged turbochargers or do major engine work that requires the heads to come off or similar. Anything else can be done in the car or is worth putting up with to avoid such a massive job (engine mounts for example).
#42
Racer
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Agreed, Im hoping not, but would wait for some other major reason to combine with this and do it all at the same time!
I keep thinking about doing the subframe mounts too, but maybe thats a bit easier and dont need to group with a big engine out job some day.
I keep thinking about doing the subframe mounts too, but maybe thats a bit easier and dont need to group with a big engine out job some day.
#44
Rennlist Member
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Yes it does. I had the dealer in Madison Wisconsin do mine. It was about $1900 all in. Alignment included.
I also had the engine out prior to this to have the torque convertor seal and engine mounts replaced. That was about $3200 all in from an independent shop in Chicago. Jrpshop.com
I also had the engine out prior to this to have the torque convertor seal and engine mounts replaced. That was about $3200 all in from an independent shop in Chicago. Jrpshop.com
#45
Racer
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Jeff, why did you replace your mounts, was it cause they appeared torn/damaged, or where you trying to solve a particular problem?
Ive done a full (everything except shocks/air bags) front suspension refresh, and I still feel the front end has some kind of faint play/looseness/something off. And I get a clunk on extension (unloading) of the front suspension on certain drops in the road (not on any push up compressive bumps).
I can see the center bolts in my mounts are off center (all are shifted) and im sure there are some cracks or tears in there if I could inspect them fully.
Did you notice anything afterwards?
Ive done a full (everything except shocks/air bags) front suspension refresh, and I still feel the front end has some kind of faint play/looseness/something off. And I get a clunk on extension (unloading) of the front suspension on certain drops in the road (not on any push up compressive bumps).
I can see the center bolts in my mounts are off center (all are shifted) and im sure there are some cracks or tears in there if I could inspect them fully.
Did you notice anything afterwards?