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Anyone ever re-use their washer for oil drain plug?
I am changing my oil before a trip I am taking in a couple of days. I failed to purchase a new washer for my oil drain plug. Can I re-use the washer that is on their already as I don’t have time to order one.
I have. It will usually work fine, but I now buy them by the half dozen and keep them in the car. Just make sure to let the car run for a bit and check for drips around the plug.
I have. It will usually work fine, but I now buy them by the half dozen and keep them in the car. Just make sure to let the car run for a bit and check for drips around the plug.
I will. I just totally had a brain dump this time. I have read someone say to flip it over and re-use and I have read others say they have re-used several times. This will only be one time.
Do I use the same torque specs of 37lbs when I re-use?
You might check a local big-box auto store. These aren't magic because you get them from Porsche. The right size aluminum crush washer from most anywhere will work just fine.
For every one guy who admits they re-use a crush washer like that, there are probably 10 that do it and won't admit it. My answer ... erm ... no comment, bye.
For every one guy who admits they re-use a crush washer like that, there are probably 10 that do it and won't admit it. My answer ... erm ... no comment, bye.
I've done it without any ill effects but use a new one each time when possible. Is that really the correct torque spec for the drain plug. I usually replace my drain plugs with a magnetic one. The spec on the aluminum plug with the magnet is 19 ft lbs.
Petza,
I may have had my numbers switched. Is it 19 ft lbs? I know I saw 37 ft lbs and 19 ft lbs in relation to the oil change. It was either the oil drain plug torque or the oil filter torque. Can someone confirm?
I use the LN Engineering magnetic drain plug in mine - spec on their plug is 19 ft lbs. and the washers for it come from them - new plug comes with 1 washer, then they sell a 5 pack separately. I have about 20 in a baggie in my oil change cabinet.
Don't know if they spec if for a Cayenne but it's the same plug I use in my 997.
I also use the ECS metal filter housing as I don't like plastic parts that get heat cycled.
I'm also very leery about tightening a steel plug into an aluminum pan, as you know which one is going to give if you get the spec wrong - 37 ft. lbs for the filter and 19 ft lbs for the plug seems much more appropriate to me.
Here's the oil change post from my build thread that shows the ECS canister.
Did my first Cayenne oil change yesterday. Although the car only has about 2,600 miles since I bought it, figured due to the length of time it sat in the body shop and since I don't know what oil was in it or when it was last changed, that it was probably a good idea to put in some fresh high-quality oil. I run Driven DT40 in all my Porsches that require a 5W/40 weight (and DT50 in my others that need the heavier weight). I'll work my way through the other fluids as time permits - transmission, differentials, etc.
All in all, not too bad, having to get the PDCC lines out of the way to access the filter cap is a bit of a pain, but not terrible. I used a long bendy transmission funnel to be able to catch the oil when I opened the cap and route it a few inches over to the drain pan under the car on the lift.
I never liked the idea of plastic components around motor oil so upon reassembly, I used the aluminum filter cap from ECS tuning. Plastic can dry out / fatigue over time with multiple head cycles and as it loses its esters to the atmosphere - just look at the cracked and brittle Cayenne intake plenums as an example (I have an ipd one installled) and use LN Engineering's spin-on filter adapter and canister oil filter on my 997s eliminating the plastic filter housing on those cars as well.
This aluminum cap is a high-quality piece that fits perfectly and has a simpler 19mm end nut for ease of removal and installation without needing a special filter tool. No drips or leaks post-installation. The center piece from the OEM cap just pulls out and then snaps into the ECS cap. Looks like it's purpose is to center the filter in the housing and cap and maybe has a bypass valve built into it.
I had opened the drain plug before going to bed on Saturday night so it drained all night. Took about 8.75 quarts to be just below the "X" in MAX when cold and above and at the full line when warmed up, then checked 3 minutes later. I'll be sending a sample of the oil I pulled over to Blackstone for analysis just to see what was in there and how it looked. I installed the LN Engineering magnetic drain plug as well for extra protection and feel better about the lower 19 ft.lbs. torque spec it requires as well - the OEM plug was really in there and the 8mm hex head was starting to round the corners as well, so probably needed replacing anyway.