Douglas61

Thanks Vandal968, I finished the job already. I actually dropped the drain plug once and drained too much, ended up re-filling ~1qt SAE 0W-40 to make the level OK.

Also, I found my Cayenne 2008 VR6 engine has a unique design under the engine cap. The filling hole is actually very small. I don't think we can push in a sucking pipe easily...

vandal968

The siphoning tube is actually supposed to go down the dipstick hole, not the fill. They're quite skinny. Glad it worked out.

cheers,
c

deilenberger

Hopefully that's just sealant and not red Loctite[tm].. I believe red needs about 500F before it softens enough to release. A pinpoint torch sounds like it's needed..

Went and Googled it:

vandal968

It's not loctite, its a red gummy stuff that's applied to the threads prior to installation. I've seen it before, can't place it. I should have taken a picture of it while the one plug was out.

**UPDATE**
I think that the sealant is the same stuff that comes pre-applied to some commercial air fittings. The heat of the xfer case seems to really bake it in place.

cheers,
c

vandal968

Nearly done.

Got the two stuck (destroyed) drain plugs out of the xfer case. One came out with a triple-square hammered into it and heat. The other came out with an EZout and heat. When drilling for the EZout, I was super paranoid about drilling too far once the bit broke thru, so I had a great idea. I slipped a deep socket over the drill bit to act as a stop when it broke thru. Worked GREAT, unlike those garbage clamp-on drill stops that invariably move on you. Here's what I learned, you really need heat to help release that sealant on both xfer case plugs. Second thing that I learned is that some "8mm" Allen wrenches measure 0.308" across the flats (which is, not coincidentally, what most 5/16" allen keys measure) and some (snap-on, Harbor Freight (wtf?)) ARE actually 8mm (0.315") across the flats. Would spending $24.50 on the Snap-on allen key have been enough of a difference to prevent me from destroying $32 worth of drain plugs and adding a week to the project? I don't know, but I suspect it may have. Check the sizing on your Allen before you start and definitely use heat on those two plugs. Even with the big (#5) EZout, the drain wouldn't budge without putting propane on it first. I was initially hesitant to do this because of the proximity to the case-joint. I didn't want to risk damaging the sealant. Oh yeah, and also my fuel flange is leaking....

After draining the tranny, I unbolted the pan (which stuck in place with the gasket). When I pulled it down, I splashed about a quart of ATF on my face an shoulder (tastes terrible). My eye! My doctor said I'm not supposed to get transmission fluid in it! ... What appears to happen is that extra oil is trapped in the filter and when you break the suction by pulling the pan, it dumps out. What I will try next time is removing all screws except for one at each corner and loosening those so that only a few threads are still engaged. Then I'll pull the pan straight down until those bolts stop it. Should break the suction and allow a second batch of oil to be drained from the drain-plug in a civilized manner instead of onto my head.

Hope this helps someone (maybe even me, if I'm smart-enough to re-read this thread before the next time I do this)

cheers,
c

dporsche74

perhaps alittle heat would be best or PB max for a day before the job

.. Why not use Mobil 1 for all fluids?... Atf and gear oil 75w90 for diff's and transfer box.

.

vandal968

It had kroil on it for two weeks but it wasn't able to seep past the red sealant of the transfer case plugs at-all. Kroil does a little better than PB Blaster in comparisons, but I don't think anything will loosen those drains other than heat, there was no corrosion, threads are clean. None of the other drains or fills were any trouble at all (front/rear diff, tranny, engine) only transfer case was difficult. There's no good reason not to use Mobil 1 for everything, but I wanted to use the same fluid for transmission and xfer case and M1 doesn't have a single product that meets both specs (3309 needed for transmission, 71141 needed for xfer). I also wanted full synthetic in everything, Mobil 1 3309 is not synthetic. The Amsoil ATF is full synthetic and covers both specs as do a few others (like Redline D4) so that moved them up in the rankings for me. YMMV.

cheers,
c

vandal968

BTW, I've noticed one difference since changing the tranny fluid. When I head out in the morning, I drive slowly through my development (25mph) for maybe a third of a mile until I hit a main road. Up until now, I've noticed that if I'm not gentle getting on & off the throttle I'd get a very slight buck as I came off the throttle, rather than the car smoothly coasting. It was only noticeable in the cool morning on the way out, I'm driving a lot quicker on the way back once the car is warm so I don't think I'd notice if it were doing it (although I don't think it did). That is gone now. After startup, during the slow cruise out of the development I can abruptly take my foot off the gas and I don't get that little jerk of engine braking. My fluid at 140k was dark but not terrible (bubbles during drain were bright pink, clear jug holding waste oil looks black, but if tilted leaves red film on sides, not brown).

So, if your car does this, it might be a good clue that you're due for a fluid change. Maybe this is common knowledge, but since this is the first automatic car I've ever bought for myself, it's news to me.

cheers,
c

hirinhu

Hi I'm using Repsol 75w90 LS for both differentials and Valvoline Max atf in transfer case
way way smoother now, thanks for all your experience

sweetskillsrk

Sorry to dig up this old thread again, but I'm thinking about using Pentosin ATF-1 in the transmission and transfer case. I've got some ATF-1 in stock anyway because that's what my VW Golf's auto transmission takes so I could just keep more around and use that in the Golf and Cayenne (the Golf takes CHF 11S too). The Pentosin ATF-1 comes out to be like $9.18 per quart (Rock Auto) and I can get Mobil 3309 for $5.11 per quart, but I'm with @vandal968, it would be nice to run the same synthetic fluid in the transmission and transfer case and Pentosin seems to be one of the few fully synthetic ATFs out there. We bought our 955 and it came with practically no records so I'd like to change EVERYTHING soon and freshen it all up. So far I'm thinking the following:

Engine: Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40
Transmission: Pentosin ATF-1
Trans. Case: Pentosin ATF-1
Differentials: Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90
Power Steering: Pentosin CHF 11S

Any objections? Thanks for the input.

sweetskillsrk

Anyone have much experience with Pentosin ATF-1? It's a little pricey, but I'd rather pay up for a good quality synthetic so I won't have to worry about changing the fluid that often. I know I could do better than Mobil 1 0W-40 for the engine, but it's only going to be in there for 5k miles, while the transmission fluid is going to be in there 100K. What is the change interval on the transmission and differentials by the way?

Petza914

Here's what I'm using in my Differentials & Transfer Case - I haven't done the Transmission yet, but am only at 40,000 miles. I'll be doing a fluid swap without the pan & filter drop.

CAYENNE FLUIDS
Tiptronic Transmission (9.5 qts): Driven AT3 (DEXRON 3 synthetic ATF)

Transfer Case (0.9 qts): (ATF LT 71141): Driven AT3 (DEXRON 3 synthetic ATF)

Front Differential (1.1 qts): Driven LS75W-90 Gear Oil

Rear Differential (1.5 qts): Driven LS75W-90 Gear Oil

sweetskillsrk

Pentosin ATF1 shows to meet the LT71141 spec and it looks like a lot of BMW guys use it in their transmissions as equivalents to the 71141 with good luck. From what I can tell, ATF-1 meets 71141 and 3309 so I should be good. Also, I must've read over the post before, but it looks like @jeff spahn used Pentosin in his transfer case. The Driven oils are a little more than I want to pay and since I have to keep Pentosin on hand anyway, it just makes sense to try to keep as few fluids in stock across the board as I can. Redline isn't easily available around here and I'm not really a believer in Royal Purple. Any feedback on Pentosin ATF1 in the transmission? I can just go with 3309 if someone really doesn't think it's a good idea. And does anyone have the transmission and differentials intervals?

Magdaddy

I reached out to Driven to verify what I needed in my 09 GTS 6MT, as acquiring fluids...anything but OEM has proven, has proven difficult.
F&R diff’s- Driven #04230, LS75W-90
Transfer Case-Driven #04706 AT3
6MT is still kinda a question. They recommended #05530, a 75W-90 GL5 Gear oil, that’s what oem is according to Driven.

That suggestion confused me, since a few here have used the significantly lower viscosity Royal Purple Synchromax with success. I called and talked to David at Driven, about my concerns.

Question...is the 6MT in the GTS a synchronized transmission? If so, then Driven STF synchromesh fluid might be the choice.

Any direction here would be appreciated.

I still say that a stickey, listing EVERY compatible fluid per application for our Pigs would be a plus.

Petza914

I don't know. When Lake Speed was still at Driven I asked him if they had a fluid that was compatible with the manual transmission in my 997. He said they were working on one, but actually didn't so I used something different that was compatible that everyone was getting great results with, which was MobilLube PTX. The 997 Transmisison is an Aisin unit and I don't know who makes the Cayenne MT and whether they're internally similar or not. I wouldn't put a non OEM fluid into it until you get a definitive answer on which is the right fluid.

In the 6-speed Corvette C5 Z06 transmission I have in my supercharged 928, Driven advised me to use the STF in that one as it was specifically made for manual synchromesh gearboxes. That was a few years ago and it has been fine since. I was getting a differential noise from that car last summer and replaced the Redline fluid that was in there with their LS75W/90 Gear oil and that resolved the noise I was experiencing. I guess the friction modifiers in the 4 year old Redline fluid were worn out.