Has anyone repaired a Boxster shifter cable?
#1
Has anyone repaired a Boxster shifter cable?
I recently had an issue with gear shift getting stuck such that I could only get to reverse, first and second gear. I just located the problem, it is with one of the two shift cables at the transmission end. A brass fitting that is normally inserted into the cable outer sheath and crimped to hold in place has come loose, and when it slips out of the outer sheath it can jam between the sheath and the gearbox lever. The two pictures included with this post show the cable as it should look (first picture), and the cable with the brass fitting slid out of position and jammed (second picture).
New cables would fix it, but they are expensive ($552 from dealer) and difficult to install (dealer wants $500 labor, so total is over $1,000). Since the rest of the cable is in good shape, a much less expensive solution would be something that retains the brass fitting where it belongs.
Has anyone had similar problem and developed a solution other than cable replacement?
New cables would fix it, but they are expensive ($552 from dealer) and difficult to install (dealer wants $500 labor, so total is over $1,000). Since the rest of the cable is in good shape, a much less expensive solution would be something that retains the brass fitting where it belongs.
Has anyone had similar problem and developed a solution other than cable replacement?
#3
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From: Agoura Hills (Los Angeles) California
Not sure where you are located, but I have a set of cables that I had removed from my 2001 Boxster S when it had less than 25,000 miles on them. If you would like them they are your for $75 plus shipping.
#4
There are several recent threads on cables. You can upgrade to Numeric or try using some of the generic fittings listed and linked in those threads.An example below. And consider the TRS clips?
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...placement.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...placement.html
#5
I think he has a 5-speed which uses different cables & fittings. Assuming that is the case I would buy your cables.
#6
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 5,209
Likes: 370
From: Agoura Hills (Los Angeles) California
#7
Thanks for the ideas. Don't think I have the patience to replace entire cable right now, and I don't have a lift so the under-the-car part is unpleasant. I am intrigued tho by Schnell Gelb's mention of TRS clips. Did a quick google search but didn't turn up anything obvious related to retaining clips for cables, can someone give me just a bit more info so I can check them out?
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#8
Does anyone have a set of junk Boxster shift cables I can experiment with? Broken / snapped cables would suit my purpose, I just need to try out some ideas on how to secure the brass end fitting at the transmission end.
#9
TRS clips:
http://tunersmotorsports.com/?p=1058
The reworking of the cables has already been done -just search
If you want just generic parts try a wire rigging supplier:
http://www.usrigging.com/wire-rope.html
http://www.webriggingsupply.com/page...vanized.html#B
http://tunersmotorsports.com/?p=1058
The reworking of the cables has already been done -just search
If you want just generic parts try a wire rigging supplier:
http://www.usrigging.com/wire-rope.html
http://www.webriggingsupply.com/page...vanized.html#B
#10
I am now thinking about just putting in new cables. Have searched this and other forums plus general internet, have not found a good installation go-by. Does anyone know where to go for instructions (hopefully with lots of good pictures)?
Thanks
Thanks
#11
Successful Repair Completed!
In case anyone else experiences a similar issue, I can report a very simple and inexpensive repair that has gotten my car back on the road again.
Lowest quote I got to replace cables was nearly $900 parts and labor, and best I could do myself was $407 ordering cables from Pelican and installing myself. I almost pulled the trigger on that, but went one more time to stare at the cable......
Turns out that when I pushed the brass piece all the way back into place there was at least 1/2 inch of inner cable sheath exposed at the end, just enough to clamp something on to prevent the brass piece from falling out again. I went to Ace Hardware, bought the smallest hose clamp I could find (the type with a worm gear to tighten the slotted band), put that on the sheath between the brass fitting and the end of the cable and tightened snug (but not tight enough to bind up the steel cable within the sheath).
Happy to report she shifts like new. Only 60 miles so far but no problems. Cost $1.50 plus my time. Probably wouldn't recommend for the track, but seems like a reasonable, "no harm done" compromise for my situation.
Lowest quote I got to replace cables was nearly $900 parts and labor, and best I could do myself was $407 ordering cables from Pelican and installing myself. I almost pulled the trigger on that, but went one more time to stare at the cable......
Turns out that when I pushed the brass piece all the way back into place there was at least 1/2 inch of inner cable sheath exposed at the end, just enough to clamp something on to prevent the brass piece from falling out again. I went to Ace Hardware, bought the smallest hose clamp I could find (the type with a worm gear to tighten the slotted band), put that on the sheath between the brass fitting and the end of the cable and tightened snug (but not tight enough to bind up the steel cable within the sheath).
Happy to report she shifts like new. Only 60 miles so far but no problems. Cost $1.50 plus my time. Probably wouldn't recommend for the track, but seems like a reasonable, "no harm done" compromise for my situation.
#12
Replaced my 2011 boxster spyder shifter cable
I replaced it at a dealer a few months ago for slightly over $1000. The car was only about 25,000 miles when the shifter cable snapped. Ever since I bought the car I always had the problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. Many times the gears has a clunking sound while I'm changing from 1st to 2nd. Other gears has no problem. Anyone has this problem?
I recently had an issue with gear shift getting stuck such that I could only get to reverse, first and second gear. I just located the problem, it is with one of the two shift cables at the transmission end. A brass fitting that is normally inserted into the cable outer sheath and crimped to hold in place has come loose, and when it slips out of the outer sheath it can jam between the sheath and the gearbox lever. The two pictures included with this post show the cable as it should look (first picture), and the cable with the brass fitting slid out of position and jammed (second picture).
New cables would fix it, but they are expensive ($552 from dealer) and difficult to install (dealer wants $500 labor, so total is over $1,000). Since the rest of the cable is in good shape, a much less expensive solution would be something that retains the brass fitting where it belongs.
Has anyone had similar problem and developed a solution other than cable replacement?
New cables would fix it, but they are expensive ($552 from dealer) and difficult to install (dealer wants $500 labor, so total is over $1,000). Since the rest of the cable is in good shape, a much less expensive solution would be something that retains the brass fitting where it belongs.
Has anyone had similar problem and developed a solution other than cable replacement?
#13
I just had this happen to me on my 2000 Boxster S. Glad to have found this thread. I will try the clamp method. Any other solutions since then? And does the brass piece serve a significant function? Yes, I'm sure Porsche didn't bother to add it if they didn't think it was worth it. But, I was just wondering if it could be removed all together.
#14
The clips from TuneRS Motorsport are called :
"Porsche Shift Cable Security Clips"
http://shop.tunersmotorsports.com/?p...-clips-986-996
http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-a...ter-cable.html
"Porsche Shift Cable Security Clips"
http://shop.tunersmotorsports.com/?p...-clips-986-996
http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-a...ter-cable.html
#15
Fixed! Well, sort of. This was my exact problem. That metal sleeve/tube had slid forward. I was able to slide it back. I first tried a small hose clamp just forward of the metal sleeve/tube. But, the pressure squeezing on the forward part caused the cable inside to bind and harm shifting. I played with less pressure. But with less pressure to help shifting, I never felt comfortable that the clamp would hold and not just slide off itself. So admittedly I put a zip tie around the forward part. As long as that zip tie lasts, that metal sleeve/tube cannot slide down again. We'll see how long it lasts.