DIY Shift Cable Diagnostics and Replacement
11-30-2012, 02:07 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
DIY Shift Cable Diagnostics and Replacement
A recent drive home landed me into third gear and the inability to shift out (up/down) after having just entered 5 o’clock traffic on Highway 50. Luckily it was a low enough gear to start in (with a smoky clutch) and high enough to hit freeway-ish speeds to make my way home into the garage. My first thought was a broken/slipped linkage, however after only a few minutes of research it was clear that the shift/selector (more so the shift) cables are prime for snapping.
Below is a more detailed write-up of what can be found in the following workshop manuals:
1. Cutaway of the Porsche 997's transmission control.
2. Two underbody panels will need to be removed in order to access the shift cables and the transmission external shift mechanisms.
3. Undo the four fasting screws as indicated in the diagram.
4. Undo the fasting screws (2) and the fastening nuts (3) as indicated in the diagram.
5. After removing the two rear-most skid panels, lever off the shift cables from the ball heads of the external shift mechanism. I used two flat head screwdrivers for leverage at the indicated positions.
6. Pull on each of the shift cables, if they are not taught then you have a broken shift and/or selector cable on your hands. Here you can see my shift cable (grey) snapped a few inches from its connection to the transmission. You might be lucky enough to have an adjustment pin pop out of the gearbox linkage (odd with bayonet locks, but still possible), which you'll be able to identify in step 31.
7. Remove the cable sleeves from the support brackets, pushing the two retaining clips together and pulling the cable sleeves out of the support bracket.
8. A shot of the two cable sleeves free from the support bracket.
9. Remove the center console carpet trim on the passenger side using a T30 torx wrench/driver (it’s hidden in a cutout under the pile.)
10. Repeat on the center console carpet trim on the driver side (also hidden under the pile.)
11. Carefully pry up the shift boot from the center console using a plastic trim removal tool. Once free, rotate the plastic neck of the shift **** clockwise and pull up hard (be careful not to break your mirror or windshield.) This part is *always* a pain, so I used a pair of Vise Grips on the shift lever as a fulcrum and a pair of needle nose pillars to remove the ****.
12. A shot of the shifter with the **** removed.
13. Remove the two screws securing the passenger radio/navigation trim with a T25 wrench/driver.
14. Pull the trim out toward you to loosen, then up to remove.
15. Remove the two screws securing the driver radio/navigation trim with a T25 wrench/driver.
16. Pull the trim out toward you to loosen, then up to remove.
17. Remove the console trim by carefully prying up in the indicated areas, detaching it from the retaining clips.
18. Console trim removed.
19. Remove the shift trim by removing the four T25 screws.
20. Shift trim removed.
21. Remove the two T25 screws securing the tray panel and gently pull out the tray and sport switch panels.
22. Disconnect the orange plug from sport switch panel by pressing down on the release tab.
23. Using trim removal tools or your fingers, remove the parking brake cover to expose one of the T25 screws securing the center console – remove it.
24. Using trim tools, remove the rubber mat from the bottom of the flip-up compartment to expose four more T25 screws which are to be removed.
25. Remove the T25 screw securing the center console in the passenger foot well.
26. Remove the T25 screw securing the center console in the driver foot well.
27. Remove the T25 screw located in front of the shifter.
28. Disconnect the electrical connecting for the center console located underneath the radio/navigation unit.
29. Now that all of the screws have been removed, carefully remove the center console from the cabin. After removal you might find some interesting things, such as the hearing aid looking thing (from a previous owner.) -_-
30. Open bayonet locks at shift and selector linkages by pushing up (compressing the springs), then rotating clock-wise to secure in the open position.
31. If you’re lucky enough to have just popped an adjustment pin out of the linkage, reattach the pin and test for proper shift alignment. If you’re not so lucky.. identify the current placement by counting the number of unused threads in the linkage and continue (this step is optional if you plan on using the Locking Bridge (aka Shift Alignment Tool.)
32. Detach adjustment pins at the shifter and selector linkages, then press the retaining clips in to remove the cables from the gearshift bracket.
33. Cables detached from the gearshift bracket. If you were unable to find the break in the cable when detaching the cables from the transmission (step 6) and are curious, pull on the cables now and see if you can find the break (you'd have a adjustment pin in your hands if it broke on the gearshift box side.)
34. Remove the four nuts securing the parking brake, one located on each corner. Those are the handle side are a bit tricky; the front requires the handle to be as upright as possible, while the handle will need to be down to access the rear nut. (tip: the brake cable and spring will be under tension, press the handle button in while removing/installing mechanism.)
35. If you’ve owned a bike you’ll be familiar with this one.. push the cables out of the support brace and through the slots to disconnect.
36. Now that the two ends of the shift cable are free, remove the foam pad that’s resting on the rubber sleeve and begin pushing it out through the body opening (toward the transmission.) To make things easier, I sprayed a generous amount of lubricating spray on the cables and grommet and used a mallet and socket driver to smack the sleeve out.
37. Begin pushing the shift cables through, staggering the ends by a few inches to allow them to pass through the newly opened hole.
38. If you run into issues with the shift linkage ends of the cables, you can minimize their size by popping the white cap off.
39. Here you can see the rubber sleeve and cables are removed and only the B+ cable remains.
40. Although already identified, here’s verification that the part number for the shift/selector cables is 997.424.041.01.
41. Old shift/selector cables on the right, new on the left.
42. During the installation of the shift and selector cables, the transmission must be engaged in neutral. Adjust the shift and selector shift mechanisms to the center position as indicated, placing the transmission in neutral.
43. Apply a coating of lubricant on the rubber sleeve and B+ (black) wire in the area of the body opening. Insert the B+ wire in the rubber sleeve and press the rubber sleeve into the body opening.
44. Rubber sleeve in the proper position.
45. Snap the shift (grey end piece) and selector (blue end piece) cables into the support bracket as shown.
46. Press ends of the shift and selector cables onto ball heads of the transmission shift mechanism, ensuring that the cable with the blue boot is on top.
47. The locking bridge tool used to keep the selector lever secure while attaching the shift cables to their gearbox linkages.
48. Locking bridge P 9619/1 must be fitted on the gearshift bracket before securing the shift/selector cables to the linkages. If you do not have this tool, refer to your previous adjustment pin settings recorded in step 31.
49. Clip in supports on the gearshift bracket. The support with the blue hinged tube must be fitted on the left and the support with the black hinged tube must be fitted on the right. Engage adjustment pins at the shift/selector linkages.
50. Once complete, close the bayonet locks and remove the Locking Bridge. Make sure cables are adjusted so that lever goes into all gears freely with no issues. Install console and all electrical connections in reverse order of removal after shifter operation has been verified.
Below is a more detailed write-up of what can be found in the following workshop manuals:
519419 – Removing and Installing Rear Trim
340419 – Removing and Installing Shift-Lever ****
681719 – Removing and Installing Center Console
341219 – Removing and Installing Shift and Selector Cables
Items needed for diagnostics:340419 – Removing and Installing Shift-Lever ****
681719 – Removing and Installing Center Console
341219 – Removing and Installing Shift and Selector Cables
- Torx T25 driver or wrench
- Torx T30 driver or wrench
- 10mm driver or wrench
- (2) flathead screwdrivers
- Plastic trim removal tools
- Shift/Selector Cables (Part #997.424.041.01)
- Locking Bridge aka Shift Alignment Tool (Part # P9619/1)
- Lubricant (Porsche uses Contifix tire mounting paste, I used a spray lubricant)
Shift Cable Assessment
1. Cutaway of the Porsche 997's transmission control.
2. Two underbody panels will need to be removed in order to access the shift cables and the transmission external shift mechanisms.
3. Undo the four fasting screws as indicated in the diagram.
4. Undo the fasting screws (2) and the fastening nuts (3) as indicated in the diagram.
5. After removing the two rear-most skid panels, lever off the shift cables from the ball heads of the external shift mechanism. I used two flat head screwdrivers for leverage at the indicated positions.
6. Pull on each of the shift cables, if they are not taught then you have a broken shift and/or selector cable on your hands. Here you can see my shift cable (grey) snapped a few inches from its connection to the transmission. You might be lucky enough to have an adjustment pin pop out of the gearbox linkage (odd with bayonet locks, but still possible), which you'll be able to identify in step 31.
7. Remove the cable sleeves from the support brackets, pushing the two retaining clips together and pulling the cable sleeves out of the support bracket.
8. A shot of the two cable sleeves free from the support bracket.
Center Console Removal
9. Remove the center console carpet trim on the passenger side using a T30 torx wrench/driver (it’s hidden in a cutout under the pile.)
10. Repeat on the center console carpet trim on the driver side (also hidden under the pile.)
11. Carefully pry up the shift boot from the center console using a plastic trim removal tool. Once free, rotate the plastic neck of the shift **** clockwise and pull up hard (be careful not to break your mirror or windshield.) This part is *always* a pain, so I used a pair of Vise Grips on the shift lever as a fulcrum and a pair of needle nose pillars to remove the ****.
12. A shot of the shifter with the **** removed.
13. Remove the two screws securing the passenger radio/navigation trim with a T25 wrench/driver.
14. Pull the trim out toward you to loosen, then up to remove.
15. Remove the two screws securing the driver radio/navigation trim with a T25 wrench/driver.
16. Pull the trim out toward you to loosen, then up to remove.
17. Remove the console trim by carefully prying up in the indicated areas, detaching it from the retaining clips.
18. Console trim removed.
19. Remove the shift trim by removing the four T25 screws.
20. Shift trim removed.
21. Remove the two T25 screws securing the tray panel and gently pull out the tray and sport switch panels.
22. Disconnect the orange plug from sport switch panel by pressing down on the release tab.
23. Using trim removal tools or your fingers, remove the parking brake cover to expose one of the T25 screws securing the center console – remove it.
24. Using trim tools, remove the rubber mat from the bottom of the flip-up compartment to expose four more T25 screws which are to be removed.
25. Remove the T25 screw securing the center console in the passenger foot well.
26. Remove the T25 screw securing the center console in the driver foot well.
27. Remove the T25 screw located in front of the shifter.
28. Disconnect the electrical connecting for the center console located underneath the radio/navigation unit.
29. Now that all of the screws have been removed, carefully remove the center console from the cabin. After removal you might find some interesting things, such as the hearing aid looking thing (from a previous owner.) -_-
30. Open bayonet locks at shift and selector linkages by pushing up (compressing the springs), then rotating clock-wise to secure in the open position.
31. If you’re lucky enough to have just popped an adjustment pin out of the linkage, reattach the pin and test for proper shift alignment. If you’re not so lucky.. identify the current placement by counting the number of unused threads in the linkage and continue (this step is optional if you plan on using the Locking Bridge (aka Shift Alignment Tool.)
32. Detach adjustment pins at the shifter and selector linkages, then press the retaining clips in to remove the cables from the gearshift bracket.
33. Cables detached from the gearshift bracket. If you were unable to find the break in the cable when detaching the cables from the transmission (step 6) and are curious, pull on the cables now and see if you can find the break (you'd have a adjustment pin in your hands if it broke on the gearshift box side.)
34. Remove the four nuts securing the parking brake, one located on each corner. Those are the handle side are a bit tricky; the front requires the handle to be as upright as possible, while the handle will need to be down to access the rear nut. (tip: the brake cable and spring will be under tension, press the handle button in while removing/installing mechanism.)
35. If you’ve owned a bike you’ll be familiar with this one.. push the cables out of the support brace and through the slots to disconnect.
36. Now that the two ends of the shift cable are free, remove the foam pad that’s resting on the rubber sleeve and begin pushing it out through the body opening (toward the transmission.) To make things easier, I sprayed a generous amount of lubricating spray on the cables and grommet and used a mallet and socket driver to smack the sleeve out.
Extracting Old Shift Cables
37. Begin pushing the shift cables through, staggering the ends by a few inches to allow them to pass through the newly opened hole.
38. If you run into issues with the shift linkage ends of the cables, you can minimize their size by popping the white cap off.
39. Here you can see the rubber sleeve and cables are removed and only the B+ cable remains.
40. Although already identified, here’s verification that the part number for the shift/selector cables is 997.424.041.01.
Installation of New Cables
41. Old shift/selector cables on the right, new on the left.
42. During the installation of the shift and selector cables, the transmission must be engaged in neutral. Adjust the shift and selector shift mechanisms to the center position as indicated, placing the transmission in neutral.
43. Apply a coating of lubricant on the rubber sleeve and B+ (black) wire in the area of the body opening. Insert the B+ wire in the rubber sleeve and press the rubber sleeve into the body opening.
44. Rubber sleeve in the proper position.
45. Snap the shift (grey end piece) and selector (blue end piece) cables into the support bracket as shown.
46. Press ends of the shift and selector cables onto ball heads of the transmission shift mechanism, ensuring that the cable with the blue boot is on top.
47. The locking bridge tool used to keep the selector lever secure while attaching the shift cables to their gearbox linkages.
48. Locking bridge P 9619/1 must be fitted on the gearshift bracket before securing the shift/selector cables to the linkages. If you do not have this tool, refer to your previous adjustment pin settings recorded in step 31.
49. Clip in supports on the gearshift bracket. The support with the blue hinged tube must be fitted on the left and the support with the black hinged tube must be fitted on the right. Engage adjustment pins at the shift/selector linkages.
50. Once complete, close the bayonet locks and remove the Locking Bridge. Make sure cables are adjusted so that lever goes into all gears freely with no issues. Install console and all electrical connections in reverse order of removal after shifter operation has been verified.
Last edited by Insomnic; 11-30-2012 at 02:22 AM.
The following 5 users liked this post by Insomnic:
jayi836 (08-26-2019),
mackeith (11-20-2022),
MattC930 (04-15-2023),
tegraphile (08-02-2020),
watchmaker (01-29-2024)
Hope mine would not break too soon 
11-30-2012, 03:29 AM
#3
isomnic that is a great diy. with complete photos and a very orderly way of doing things. you know what you are doing and this will surely help a lot of our brothers. thank you!!!
The following users liked this post:
MattC930 (04-15-2023)
11-30-2012, 06:56 AM
#4
Great DIY! I'm a recent victim but was not bold enough to tackle this on my own. My car was stuck in neutral (!) and I was lucky enough to be able to coast to my parking place at work..Amazing how frequently this seems to occur.
11-30-2012, 10:41 AM
#6
Drifting
Another excellent write-up with thorough instructions and lots of pics. Thanks for sharing Insomnic. Your a true enthusiast. This one's going up on the DIY sticky!
11-30-2012, 11:32 AM
#7
THis is just what I needed! I've got a short shift on the bench, but haven't removed the shift boot in fear of breaking it. Your pictures show me just what's under there and how it's attached! Thank you!
With the new cables, do you notice any change in the feel of the shifter? I'm having issues with first and second gear engagement and overall the shifter just seems sloppy. Wondering if the cables are maybe getting stretched or need replacement before the go
With the new cables, do you notice any change in the feel of the shifter? I'm having issues with first and second gear engagement and overall the shifter just seems sloppy. Wondering if the cables are maybe getting stretched or need replacement before the go
Trending Topics
11-30-2012, 12:01 PM
#8
Drifting
THis is just what I needed! I've got a short shift on the bench, but haven't removed the shift boot in fear of breaking it. Your pictures show me just what's under there and how it's attached! Thank you!
With the new cables, do you notice any change in the feel of the shifter? I'm having issues with first and second gear engagement and overall the shifter just seems sloppy. Wondering if the cables are maybe getting stretched or need replacement before the go
With the new cables, do you notice any change in the feel of the shifter? I'm having issues with first and second gear engagement and overall the shifter just seems sloppy. Wondering if the cables are maybe getting stretched or need replacement before the go
11-30-2012, 12:24 PM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Montreal, Canada
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Excellent write-up! Definitely this should go to the DIY sticky.
Questions,
1. How long did this diy take you?
2. Before the cable broke, did you have any problems shifting into 1st/2nd? Did you sometime needed a little force to get into gear?
3. On the broken cable, did it break at the junction between the flexible cable mating the solid rod? Any signs why it broke, rust?, design defect?....
Questions,
1. How long did this diy take you?
2. Before the cable broke, did you have any problems shifting into 1st/2nd? Did you sometime needed a little force to get into gear?
3. On the broken cable, did it break at the junction between the flexible cable mating the solid rod? Any signs why it broke, rust?, design defect?....
04-21-2013, 02:00 AM
#11
Intermediate
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Novi,MI
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
A recent drive home landed me into third gear and the inability to shift out (up/down) after having just entered 5 o’clock traffic on Highway 50. Luckily it was a low enough gear to start in (with a smoky clutch) and high enough to hit freeway-ish speeds to make my way home into the garage. My first thought was a broken/slipped linkage, however after only a few minutes of research it was clear that the shift/selector (more so the shift) cables are prime for snapping.
Below is a more detailed write-up of what can be found in the following workshop manuals:
1. Cutaway of the Porsche 997's transmission control.
2. Two underbody panels will need to be removed in order to access the shift cables and the transmission external shift mechanisms.
3. Undo the four fasting screws as indicated in the diagram.
4. Undo the fasting screws (2) and the fastening nuts (3) as indicated in the diagram.
5. After removing the two rear-most skid panels, lever off the shift cables from the ball heads of the external shift mechanism. I used two flat head screwdrivers for leverage at the indicated positions.
6. Pull on each of the shift cables, if they are not taught then you have a broken shift and/or selector cable on your hands. Here you can see my shift cable (grey) snapped a few inches from its connection to the transmission. You might be lucky enough to have an adjustment pin pop out of the gearbox linkage (odd with bayonet locks, but still possible), which you'll be able to identify in step 31.
7. Remove the cable sleeves from the support brackets, pushing the two retaining clips together and pulling the cable sleeves out of the support bracket.
8. A shot of the two cable sleeves free from the support bracket.
9. Remove the center console carpet trim on the passenger side using a T30 torx wrench/driver (it’s hidden in a cutout under the pile.)
10. Repeat on the center console carpet trim on the driver side (also hidden under the pile.)
11. Carefully pry up the shift boot from the center console using a plastic trim removal tool. Once free, rotate the plastic neck of the shift **** clockwise and pull up hard (be careful not to break your mirror or windshield.) This part is *always* a pain, so I used a pair of Vise Grips on the shift lever as a fulcrum and a pair of needle nose pillars to remove the ****.
12. A shot of the shifter with the **** removed.
13. Remove the two screws securing the passenger radio/navigation trim with a T25 wrench/driver.
14. Pull the trim out toward you to loosen, then up to remove.
15. Remove the two screws securing the driver radio/navigation trim with a T25 wrench/driver.
16. Pull the trim out toward you to loosen, then up to remove.
17. Remove the console trim by carefully prying up in the indicated areas, detaching it from the retaining clips.
18. Console trim removed.
19. Remove the shift trim by removing the four T25 screws.
20. Shift trim removed.
21. Remove the two T25 screws securing the tray panel and gently pull out the tray and sport switch panels.
22. Disconnect the orange plug from sport switch panel by pressing down on the release tab.
23. Using trim removal tools or your fingers, remove the parking brake cover to expose one of the T25 screws securing the center console – remove it.
24. Using trim tools, remove the rubber mat from the bottom of the flip-up compartment to expose four more T25 screws which are to be removed.
25. Remove the T25 screw securing the center console in the passenger foot well.
26. Remove the T25 screw securing the center console in the driver foot well.
27. Remove the T25 screw located in front of the shifter.
28. Disconnect the electrical connecting for the center console located underneath the radio/navigation unit.
29. Now that all of the screws have been removed, carefully remove the center console from the cabin. After removal you might find some interesting things, such as the hearing aid looking thing (from a previous owner.) -_-
30. Open bayonet locks at shift and selector linkages by pushing up (compressing the springs), then rotating clock-wise to secure in the open position.
31. If you’re lucky enough to have just popped an adjustment pin out of the linkage, reattach the pin and test for proper shift alignment. If you’re not so lucky.. identify the current placement by counting the number of unused threads in the linkage and continue (this step is optional if you plan on using the Locking Bridge (aka Shift Alignment Tool.)
32. Detach adjustment pins at the shifter and selector linkages, then press the retaining clips in to remove the cables from the gearshift bracket.
33. Cables detached from the gearshift bracket. If you were unable to find the break in the cable when detaching the cables from the transmission (step 6) and are curious, pull on the cables now and see if you can find the break (you'd have a adjustment pin in your hands if it broke on the gearshift box side.)
34. Remove the four nuts securing the parking brake, one located on each corner. Those are the handle side are a bit tricky; the front requires the handle to be as upright as possible, while the handle will need to be down to access the rear nut. (tip: the brake cable and spring will be under tension, press the handle button in while removing/installing mechanism.)
35. If you’ve owned a bike you’ll be familiar with this one.. push the cables out of the support brace and through the slots to disconnect.
36. Now that the two ends of the shift cable are free, remove the foam pad that’s resting on the rubber sleeve and begin pushing it out through the body opening (toward the transmission.) To make things easier, I sprayed a generous amount of lubricating spray on the cables and grommet and used a mallet and socket driver to smack the sleeve out.
37. Begin pushing the shift cables through, staggering the ends by a few inches to allow them to pass through the newly opened hole.
38. If you run into issues with the shift linkage ends of the cables, you can minimize their size by popping the white cap off.
39. Here you can see the rubber sleeve and cables are removed and only the B+ cable remains.
40. Although already identified, here’s verification that the part number for the shift/selector cables is 997.424.041.01.
41. Old shift/selector cables on the right, new on the left.
42. During the installation of the shift and selector cables, the transmission must be engaged in neutral. Adjust the shift and selector shift mechanisms to the center position as indicated, placing the transmission in neutral.
43. Apply a coating of lubricant on the rubber sleeve and B+ (black) wire in the area of the body opening. Insert the B+ wire in the rubber sleeve and press the rubber sleeve into the body opening.
44. Rubber sleeve in the proper position.
45. Snap the shift (grey end piece) and selector (blue end piece) cables into the support bracket as shown.
46. Press ends of the shift and selector cables onto ball heads of the transmission shift mechanism, ensuring that the cable with the blue boot is on top.
47. The locking bridge tool used to keep the selector lever secure while attaching the shift cables to their gearbox linkages.
48. Locking bridge P 9619/1 must be fitted on the gearshift bracket before securing the shift/selector cables to the linkages. If you do not have this tool, refer to your previous adjustment pin settings recorded in step 31.
49. Clip in supports on the gearshift bracket. The support with the blue hinged tube must be fitted on the left and the support with the black hinged tube must be fitted on the right. Engage adjustment pins at the shift/selector linkages.
50. Once complete, close the bayonet locks and remove the Locking Bridge. Make sure cables are adjusted so that lever goes into all gears freely with no issues. Install console and all electrical connections in reverse order of removal after shifter operation has been verified.
Below is a more detailed write-up of what can be found in the following workshop manuals:
519419 – Removing and Installing Rear Trim
340419 – Removing and Installing Shift-Lever ****
681719 – Removing and Installing Center Console
341219 – Removing and Installing Shift and Selector Cables
Items needed for diagnostics:340419 – Removing and Installing Shift-Lever ****
681719 – Removing and Installing Center Console
341219 – Removing and Installing Shift and Selector Cables
- Torx T25 driver or wrench
- Torx T30 driver or wrench
- 10mm driver or wrench
- (2) flathead screwdrivers
- Plastic trim removal tools
- Shift/Selector Cables (Part #997.424.041.01)
- Locking Bridge aka Shift Alignment Tool (Part # P9619/1)
- Lubricant (Porsche uses Contifix tire mounting paste, I used a spray lubricant)
Shift Cable Assessment
1. Cutaway of the Porsche 997's transmission control.
2. Two underbody panels will need to be removed in order to access the shift cables and the transmission external shift mechanisms.
3. Undo the four fasting screws as indicated in the diagram.
4. Undo the fasting screws (2) and the fastening nuts (3) as indicated in the diagram.
5. After removing the two rear-most skid panels, lever off the shift cables from the ball heads of the external shift mechanism. I used two flat head screwdrivers for leverage at the indicated positions.
6. Pull on each of the shift cables, if they are not taught then you have a broken shift and/or selector cable on your hands. Here you can see my shift cable (grey) snapped a few inches from its connection to the transmission. You might be lucky enough to have an adjustment pin pop out of the gearbox linkage (odd with bayonet locks, but still possible), which you'll be able to identify in step 31.
7. Remove the cable sleeves from the support brackets, pushing the two retaining clips together and pulling the cable sleeves out of the support bracket.
8. A shot of the two cable sleeves free from the support bracket.
Center Console Removal
9. Remove the center console carpet trim on the passenger side using a T30 torx wrench/driver (it’s hidden in a cutout under the pile.)
10. Repeat on the center console carpet trim on the driver side (also hidden under the pile.)
11. Carefully pry up the shift boot from the center console using a plastic trim removal tool. Once free, rotate the plastic neck of the shift **** clockwise and pull up hard (be careful not to break your mirror or windshield.) This part is *always* a pain, so I used a pair of Vise Grips on the shift lever as a fulcrum and a pair of needle nose pillars to remove the ****.
12. A shot of the shifter with the **** removed.
13. Remove the two screws securing the passenger radio/navigation trim with a T25 wrench/driver.
14. Pull the trim out toward you to loosen, then up to remove.
15. Remove the two screws securing the driver radio/navigation trim with a T25 wrench/driver.
16. Pull the trim out toward you to loosen, then up to remove.
17. Remove the console trim by carefully prying up in the indicated areas, detaching it from the retaining clips.
18. Console trim removed.
19. Remove the shift trim by removing the four T25 screws.
20. Shift trim removed.
21. Remove the two T25 screws securing the tray panel and gently pull out the tray and sport switch panels.
22. Disconnect the orange plug from sport switch panel by pressing down on the release tab.
23. Using trim removal tools or your fingers, remove the parking brake cover to expose one of the T25 screws securing the center console – remove it.
24. Using trim tools, remove the rubber mat from the bottom of the flip-up compartment to expose four more T25 screws which are to be removed.
25. Remove the T25 screw securing the center console in the passenger foot well.
26. Remove the T25 screw securing the center console in the driver foot well.
27. Remove the T25 screw located in front of the shifter.
28. Disconnect the electrical connecting for the center console located underneath the radio/navigation unit.
29. Now that all of the screws have been removed, carefully remove the center console from the cabin. After removal you might find some interesting things, such as the hearing aid looking thing (from a previous owner.) -_-
30. Open bayonet locks at shift and selector linkages by pushing up (compressing the springs), then rotating clock-wise to secure in the open position.
31. If you’re lucky enough to have just popped an adjustment pin out of the linkage, reattach the pin and test for proper shift alignment. If you’re not so lucky.. identify the current placement by counting the number of unused threads in the linkage and continue (this step is optional if you plan on using the Locking Bridge (aka Shift Alignment Tool.)
32. Detach adjustment pins at the shifter and selector linkages, then press the retaining clips in to remove the cables from the gearshift bracket.
33. Cables detached from the gearshift bracket. If you were unable to find the break in the cable when detaching the cables from the transmission (step 6) and are curious, pull on the cables now and see if you can find the break (you'd have a adjustment pin in your hands if it broke on the gearshift box side.)
34. Remove the four nuts securing the parking brake, one located on each corner. Those are the handle side are a bit tricky; the front requires the handle to be as upright as possible, while the handle will need to be down to access the rear nut. (tip: the brake cable and spring will be under tension, press the handle button in while removing/installing mechanism.)
35. If you’ve owned a bike you’ll be familiar with this one.. push the cables out of the support brace and through the slots to disconnect.
36. Now that the two ends of the shift cable are free, remove the foam pad that’s resting on the rubber sleeve and begin pushing it out through the body opening (toward the transmission.) To make things easier, I sprayed a generous amount of lubricating spray on the cables and grommet and used a mallet and socket driver to smack the sleeve out.
Extracting Old Shift Cables
37. Begin pushing the shift cables through, staggering the ends by a few inches to allow them to pass through the newly opened hole.
38. If you run into issues with the shift linkage ends of the cables, you can minimize their size by popping the white cap off.
39. Here you can see the rubber sleeve and cables are removed and only the B+ cable remains.
40. Although already identified, here’s verification that the part number for the shift/selector cables is 997.424.041.01.
Installation of New Cables
41. Old shift/selector cables on the right, new on the left.
42. During the installation of the shift and selector cables, the transmission must be engaged in neutral. Adjust the shift and selector shift mechanisms to the center position as indicated, placing the transmission in neutral.
43. Apply a coating of lubricant on the rubber sleeve and B+ (black) wire in the area of the body opening. Insert the B+ wire in the rubber sleeve and press the rubber sleeve into the body opening.
44. Rubber sleeve in the proper position.
45. Snap the shift (grey end piece) and selector (blue end piece) cables into the support bracket as shown.
46. Press ends of the shift and selector cables onto ball heads of the transmission shift mechanism, ensuring that the cable with the blue boot is on top.
47. The locking bridge tool used to keep the selector lever secure while attaching the shift cables to their gearbox linkages.
48. Locking bridge P 9619/1 must be fitted on the gearshift bracket before securing the shift/selector cables to the linkages. If you do not have this tool, refer to your previous adjustment pin settings recorded in step 31.
49. Clip in supports on the gearshift bracket. The support with the blue hinged tube must be fitted on the left and the support with the black hinged tube must be fitted on the right. Engage adjustment pins at the shift/selector linkages.
50. Once complete, close the bayonet locks and remove the Locking Bridge. Make sure cables are adjusted so that lever goes into all gears freely with no issues. Install console and all electrical connections in reverse order of removal after shifter operation has been verified.
Thanks again !
Last edited by vladeden; 04-21-2013 at 01:10 PM.
04-21-2013, 07:55 AM
#12
Same question, Insomnic. Would you know what might have caused it to break? Were you shifting rapidly or maybe forcefully because it wouldn't go into gear, or clutch wasn't fully disengaged or something? Very curious why/how it broke. I replaced my hand brake lever with a GT3 alcantara piece and had to remove most things you described. Your instructions and pictures would have made my work easier, compared to following the workshop manual. You did a great job!
04-21-2013, 07:19 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
Unfortunately, they just break. My shifter felt a little "crunchy" when I was shifting in to 2, 4, or 6. Then cable finally let go one day on a 1 to 2 shift.
05-05-2013, 07:47 PM
#15
Great write up. I'm about to pull my console and will be referencing this thread. Thanks!