dm_n_stuff

A month or so ago, I posted a photo of my car after I'd washed and waxed it as a part of another thread. I got some questions then about what I did to make it look so good.

Since then, I've found some seriously good products for swirl removal, and polising the car. We all know black is a bear to keep nice, and swirl marks are a demon to get out.

I'm not selling the stuff to do it, nor am I a detailer, just a car nut who can't stand owning a or driving a car that has crappy paint.

Here's a photo. If you guy want more info, I'll post up what I used, how I used it, links to a video that made buffing technique clear, etc.

I used all retail type products and a Porter-Cable random orbital.

Sputter

More information is always a good thing. I'd like to see it.

Bob O

Yes. Please post details. My black 01 is a BEAR to keep looking like I want it. Any help or tips for us owners of black cars would be appreciated!

Bob

Vampyre

Yes Please post, for public view, I would like to see how you did it, your car looks great!

perfectlap

had a daily driver for 5 years. I know your pain.

Try this:

1. wash with Optimum No Rinse instead of the full on bucket and hose wash. Its a rinseless wash where you simply wipe down the surface. Much less invasive than suds since you end up touching the car less.(detailcity.com) while the car is still damp/wet spray the car down with a quick detailer, Dry with a waffle weave. Avoid rubbing on dry paint as much as possible. Use an absorber type sponge from Pepboys or similar on the canvas and glass.

2. a couple of products from FK1 will help with maintenance: use a dense acrylic paste wax like FK1 1000P or Pink Wax. A few layers will create a nice barrier. Then coat with an dust-repelling antistatic spray like 425, it's like telfon for glass, paint and your dash. Fk1usa.com
425 has been a huge advancement in detailing. But understand it won't make the car shinier, it simply encapsulates whatever wax you are using whether its a bio wax like the Carnaubas (P21s, s1000, souveran,etc.) or the longer lasting, denser acrylics.

3. stop using the prickly side of microfiber towels. I'm swapping over my supply to waffle weave towels which have tufted loop ends. Much easier to clean than the prickly mf towels which are stubborn at letting go of some of the swirl inducing debris. Poorboysworld.com have a nice waffle weave towel.

smlporsche

That's a fine looking car.

I tried the Porter Cable random orbital polisher on my black track car since it's not as critical as my Boxster S and can say that I was amazed at the results.

I got most of my info and products from Griots Garage. He has a free CD that shows the steps. Pretty nice for us neophytes...

Bob O

Thanks Perfectlap. I haven't heard of any of the products you mention. And I thought I'd researched everything on the subject matter!!!! I'm using the Porter Cable for polishing with 3M swirl mark remover, followed by Menzerna's Final Polish and then the Glaze. "Wax" is Meguires NXT with a couple of coats of P21S topped of with Meguires Speed Detailer. (But I'm coming to the conclusion that P21S is too soft.. It shines great when first applied but it really shows microscratches..everytime I wash the car new ones show up) When I'm finished, it looks wonderful for about ohhhhh a half hour. Then every dust particle in the state attacks it and by the next morning.. well...damm.

I AM using MF towels for everything...from washing and drying to removing wax. Now that I'm sitting here writing this though, somewhere in the recesses of my memory it occurs to me that some website (Autopia???) had an article that said using mf towels to remove wax was a bad idea.. they actually remove too much. Its probably time for some more "stuff" in the detail cabinet... which is already overflowing! You're right about the non looped mf not cleaning well. I'm about to give up on them, they hold little particles in the weave even after washing, which I've noticed AFTER using one of them to dry the car, only to see little scratches...awwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

If the 425 you mention actually is antistat and will repel dust I'm all for it!!! I'll go check it out on their web site and order some.

I'll also check out the waxes you're recommending. As I said above, I believe the P21s is too soft and a harder wax would be better, at least for black. It sure does shine nice when first applied though!

Oh the joys of living with a black car!

Thanks for the tips!

Oh and dm.. sorry.... didn't mean to hijack your thread!!!!

Bob

fast1

Actually the best recommendation that I can make for those who like to own cars that look perfect is to avoid buying black cars. I learned that lesson with a black M3 that I use to own. Unfortunately I'm somewhat of a perfectionist, and black cars aren't good choices for perfectionists. I have yet to see a black car on a Dealer's showroom that didn't already have micro scratches that were likely caused by a lot boy removing dust with a dirty dust cloth.

When I took pictures of my M3, it looked absolutely gorgeous, but when you got within a couple of feet of the car or worse yet viewed it under street lighting, all of the flaws were readily apparent.

So now I have a gray Boxster, and I couldn't be happier. It looks great up close and under any kind of lighting.

Bob O

You're probably right, but they sure look good when they're freshly detailed. And at the moment, I'm "stuck" with the black one! oh well.. just have to suffer I guess. lol

dm_n_stuff

Most of the tips provided to me from a professional detailer.

Washing. do the wheels first. they're dirty and dusty. If you wash them after you wash the car, some of that grime will get on the paint. So, wheels first, wash completely.

The car itself I use a bunch of stuff from autogeek.net. Starting withthe wash cycle. I wet the car thoroughly. Making sure to knock off as much loose dirt as possible. Without going into a million boring details, I use theirfoam gun for washing the car, and a wool washing mit, two buckets, one soapy, one for rinsing. I use the Xtreme Foam Formula soap with the gun. It's a cool attachment, and works great at getting foamy soap on the car, withouth having to do a lot of bucket swirling. Remember, the less contact with the paint, the fewer swirl marks.

rinse twice. First time with the nozzle on to get off the soap. then remove the nozzle and use the hose without attachments. Use the genlt flow of water, follow the lines of the car, it'll take 80% of the water off, leave you less drying to do.

Microfiber towels for drying. I use the big one Autogeek sells for this. After a first pass on drying, spray a detailing spray and wipe the car again, get all the water. Don't forget to wipe the door sills.

Waxing to get rid of swirl marks is a three or more step process. If your finish isn''t smooth (use the baggie test) then you need to claybar first. Plenty of existing instructions here about that. so I'll skip to the next step.

Next step is to polish the paint. I use menzerna SUPER Intensive polish. Porter and cable random orbital and a hard orange pad. you get a free pad with the polish when you buy from autogeek. The trick here is to buff until the polish becomes clear on the paint. It's gonna seem like a lot longer than you think you should buff, but you'll see the polish go kind of translucent. That means it's time to wipe it off. Work a small area at a time, and follow all the instructions that come with the porter cable buffer. Again, microfiber towels. Make a pass over the polish, then flip the pad for a clean surface to finish the wipe down.

After you've polished the entire car, time to polish again. This time with menzerna Final Polish. White pad. That'll get more of the swirls, if any are left, and take out any haze left from the intensive polish. Same procedure, buff until the polish looks translucent. Wipe with microfiber towels.

Now at this point you can simply wax and be done, or go one step further and use a good glaze. I use Meguiar's Show Car glaze #7. Really adds a nice finishing touch. Apply by hand, buff off by hand. If you do this step, you will notice a difference as it fills small imperfections in the paint, and will get even more swirl marks.

OK, time to wax!! Or seal. your preference, or both!!

Seal first. I use Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. Easiest to use I've ever found. Apply by hand, or with the PC random orbital. White pad. don't over buff with the machine, just get a nice thin coat on the car. Leave it on for a few minutes to cure. (If you have a death wish, go ahead and use Zaino's instead, just takes longer.) Griots also makes a good selant/polish.

You can apply additional coats of sealant for more shine, but it won't be as deep a shine as carnuba provides.

I put P21S carnuba on as a top coat. Apply by hand, don't let it dry, and wipe off with a microfiber towel. Ise a clean applicator each time. buy a bunch when you buy the wax and other products. Use the applicator once and toss it. You'd be surprised at how much crud can still get caught up in the waxing process. Griots best of show is also a very nice wax for not a whole ton of money.

All done??

Nope, final pass with a detailing spray. Take your pick, I like Meguiar's myself, but they all seem pretty much the same, just pick the one you like the smell of best.

It takes me about 2 hours to do the entire job, if I bust my butt. Nice thing about it is, once you've done this, you can just wax/polish for about 3-6 months, even on a black car.

If you want, next time I go through this, I take pix and post.

Dave