Car stalling after driving 1 mile, restarts and stalls after 10 seconds
#1
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Car stalling after driving 1 mile, restarts and stalls after 10 seconds
My tuned 08 turbo starts and runs fine for a mile, then engine rpms drop and stalls. Able to restart it easily but it dies again after 10 seconds. When this happened yesterday, I eventually used up all the juice restarting the car, so I used my jumper box to restart it, and it drove fine the mile or so it took to get home without stalling. Since my battery is 5 years old I replaced it yesterday. I left the house today and it did the same thing. This time, after restarting it a few times and stalling, I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery, waited 30 seconds and reconnected it. It then drove without issue back to my house. Unfortunately, I have my Durametric cable in my glove compartment of my 09 turbo which is at the dealership getting a new motor and tranny (see my other thread). So I haven't been able to scan for codes yet.
Any ideas? This car has an AIM built motor with pinned cams and internal upgrades/welded coolant bungs. Has been running great until yesterday am. Anyone thinking camshaft or crankshaft position sensor issues?
Any ideas? This car has an AIM built motor with pinned cams and internal upgrades/welded coolant bungs. Has been running great until yesterday am. Anyone thinking camshaft or crankshaft position sensor issues?
#3
Three Wheelin'
I assume this is not a new tune? If so, you really need to pull some readings.
Does it stall out only on idle? If so, I would start with MAF readings and go from there. Could be anything from a funky sensor to a PCV leak to a boost leak.
I'd go grab that cable if the car is close by.
Ed
Does it stall out only on idle? If so, I would start with MAF readings and go from there. Could be anything from a funky sensor to a PCV leak to a boost leak.
I'd go grab that cable if the car is close by.
Ed
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Tune is old and was running great over last 6000+ miles until this weekend. Does disconnecting power with resumption of normal operation for a few minutes suggest anything? It runs fine at all rpms until it reaches a point then rpms drop and car stalls. Then restarting it lasts for 10 seconds regardless if I rev the motor or let it idle. Only disconnecting negative terminal allows the car to function properly, but only for a few minutes. Strange. Hopefully I'll have my durametric cable tonight.
#5
Three Wheelin'
OK, then you can probably skip your tune having anything to do with it. In the "old" days, fuel, fire and air were all you needed to worry about. While that is still true, a bunch of sensors and computer input now controls how those three are used in an engine. I am going to bet once you monitor some key data points you will have a better idea of what is going on (unfortunately you may have to go through a sizeable list of readings to get there).
Ed
Ed
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One code that kept reappearing was crash signal. Here's the scan results after clearing codes and starting motor. Any thoughts? Will return from mini vacation next week.
#7
Three Wheelin'
That's a number of codes, but looking through them I don't see one that would cause you to stall. CPS's (crank and cam), Speed Sensors and the like could lead to stalling but I don't see them listed.
The Airbag code may be linked to the PCM code C141. One post with that code wrote:
"I had a similar issue on my 997.1 and after diagnosing and pulling the code I isolated it to the head airbag on the drivers side. I had to disassemble the door panel and found that the connector had become loose at some point. I un plugged and plugged the airbag connector, reset the code and it was gone after that."
However the number of C codes you are getting leads me to believe you have replaced your head unit?
It will probably take some live measurements and catch it when you stall. I think there are some posts about what values to look at based on certain scenarios. I have attached a doc I started to put together to identify values to look at. It is a work in progress and not the best, but it might get you pointed in the right direction.
Ed
The Airbag code may be linked to the PCM code C141. One post with that code wrote:
"I had a similar issue on my 997.1 and after diagnosing and pulling the code I isolated it to the head airbag on the drivers side. I had to disassemble the door panel and found that the connector had become loose at some point. I un plugged and plugged the airbag connector, reset the code and it was gone after that."
However the number of C codes you are getting leads me to believe you have replaced your head unit?
It will probably take some live measurements and catch it when you stall. I think there are some posts about what values to look at based on certain scenarios. I have attached a doc I started to put together to identify values to look at. It is a work in progress and not the best, but it might get you pointed in the right direction.
Ed
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Yes, I have an aftermarket sound system in the car.
I looked at virtually all active values in the engine section with durametric and nothing looked abnormal. I then reset all codes. Almost every code recurred immediately except 1265 crash signal and the door light code. I was able to get the car to run without stalling and drove it for 20 minutes without issue but the P1265 code did reappear. The next morning it stalled after 5 seconds and I did the battery disconnect and it ran fine again. The next day it started fine and I drove it 40 miles without issue and again for an hour today.
My theory now is that these symptoms never appeared before but started shortly after filling up with gas at a local Cumberland Farms station. Maybe this is just a bad batch of gas? Not sure why it would run ok for several minutes after battery disconnect though. Regardless, I'm going to fill the tank up tomorrow since I'm now below 3/4 full and drive it a few more times before I consider this incident resolved.
Thanks to all that replied.
I looked at virtually all active values in the engine section with durametric and nothing looked abnormal. I then reset all codes. Almost every code recurred immediately except 1265 crash signal and the door light code. I was able to get the car to run without stalling and drove it for 20 minutes without issue but the P1265 code did reappear. The next morning it stalled after 5 seconds and I did the battery disconnect and it ran fine again. The next day it started fine and I drove it 40 miles without issue and again for an hour today.
My theory now is that these symptoms never appeared before but started shortly after filling up with gas at a local Cumberland Farms station. Maybe this is just a bad batch of gas? Not sure why it would run ok for several minutes after battery disconnect though. Regardless, I'm going to fill the tank up tomorrow since I'm now below 3/4 full and drive it a few more times before I consider this incident resolved.
Thanks to all that replied.
Last edited by Dr Chill; 09-16-2023 at 07:42 PM.
#10
Could be bad gas. I would drain some (or all of it) gas and see if there is water in it. Since water and gas don't mix, there could be instance where you get more gas than water in the line.
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When was your fuel filter changed? Guys when you disconnect the battery you LOSE all of your engine adaptation and any diagnostic soft codes.. It is hell for your mechanics..
On my soap box.. STOP disconnecting the battery... In the long run and larger scope of things it only offers quick gratification. And more nail biting when symptoms re-appear.
I would make the recommendation to change your fuel filter and grab a PIWIS and rescan for ALL the soft codes.
On my soap box.. STOP disconnecting the battery... In the long run and larger scope of things it only offers quick gratification. And more nail biting when symptoms re-appear.
I would make the recommendation to change your fuel filter and grab a PIWIS and rescan for ALL the soft codes.
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With the 996TT platform, when the car just dies. Hard crank>>it starts then dies when coasting. This is a fuel starvation issue, and point to the fuel pump. The 997TT has twin fuel pumps. If the primary pump or venturi feed sponson tubes are blocked or have failed, you will see a stalling issue. As mentioned above, checking fuel line pressure is recommended. The ECU can detect and trip a CEL for the fuel pump failures.
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If the one of the pumps either is failing or has failed, or one of the lines or filter is blocked, is it possible for the motor to run flawlessly for 60+ minutes multiple times and then stall the next time the car is fired up a day later?
The codes it's throwing are not fuel pump related and no CEL is illuminated.
The codes it's throwing are not fuel pump related and no CEL is illuminated.
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If it continues to stall, my recommendation is to put a gauge on the fuel line test port.
A large boost leak will allow the engine to fire and die but usually it will run>> rough..
If you can log your injector duty cycle and fuel trims> it might give you a clear picture.
Misfire counts?
A large boost leak will allow the engine to fire and die but usually it will run>> rough..
If you can log your injector duty cycle and fuel trims> it might give you a clear picture.
Misfire counts?