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Engine out and parts have been ordered.
All the coolant lines are in great shape 85,000 miles.
Elbow broke off on removal.
Will follow Ed's (lliejk) lead on the master parts list he generated. thanks for the homework.
And a special thanks to Alex (jeebus31) for supporting me through this project. We shared the cost of the timing tool. After a drive 2 weeks ago, could smell coolant Plastic on rubber with hose clamp crime As she sits now
Very typical area. I believe movement exists in that particular return line. Here is mine.
a nightmare when it does happen to you! You can be sure it will no doubt about it! You are saving a ton of cash and getting to know your car. It’s the best feeling of all. I can tackle anything this car throws at me. Ain’t worried about anything. My repair was done in 2016.
Man you stripped that motor in record time! Time to make it better than ever.
Hahaha, well I had lots of help from your thread.
Originally Posted by lliejk
Took the words right out of my mouth!
I lost the fear factor after seen what you did and documented so perfectly
May the force be with you!
Ed
I lost the fear factor after seen what you did and documented so perfectly,
Any tips on the clutch replacement, will pin the fittings and start on the clutch next, not doing the slave conversion.
Originally Posted by atcbi5
Very typical area. I believe movement exists in that particular return line. Here is mine.
a nightmare when it does happen to you! You can be sure it will no doubt about it! You are saving a ton of cash and getting to know your car. It’s the best feeling of all. I can tackle anything this car throws at me. Ain’t worried about anything. My repair was done in 2016.
Saving on labor and replacing everything that's perhaps compromised for heat cycling.
After you get all that fixed, then it’s the front hoses to the radiators. They employ “O” rings that develop flat spots. When the car cycles thru it’s heat/cold, expansion and abridgment. Misting of coolant will be noticed up front specifically drivers front wheel-well area. One way to test it when car is cool, squeeze the lower and upper hoses to radiators. Mine both leaked. Passengers side are fine for the moment. Good luck and have fun!
I have not done the clutch on a 911 yet (only one I have done is on my Audi UrS6), but they are pretty straightforward. When I popped my 997's off to do the slave, the bell was covered in black grease and the clutch was new (my guess is that whoever had it before suffered some kind of failure and maybe that even lead to him selling it).
Basically you have a few pieces to deal with: Flywheel refinish (I am pretty sure this is always recommended, but other guys can jump in for the 997), Pressure Plate, Friction Disk and Throw-out Bearing, None it is rocket science. Normally the flywheel bolts are torque to yield and must be replaced. The biggest problem I had when doing my Audi was aligning the output shaft of the transmission and sliding it in to the engine. I had to do that with the engine in the car, so it was a little more challenging. With both engine and transmission out of the engine bay, that should be easier.Follow the recommend and tape the clutch fork up so you don't have to disassemble the bell housing if it pops out of position, and watch the needle bearing since it is all just sitting together and can come apart (ask me how I know). I also replaced my transmission output seal and I am pretty sure I read that if you rear main seal is questionable, now would be the time to replace it. Like I said I have not done this on a 911, but a clutch is a clutch.
I think these are the relevant WM's attached. There are a few in this section (that I did not attach) that deal with the slave, so let me know if you need them.
Both the video and the thread are with the engine in the car. Wish I had a BTDT, but I guess I will have to wait 40,000 or more miles before I find out (my clutches on the Audis have lasted 200 - 300 thousand miles - so maybe more?)
I have not done the clutch on a 911 yet (only one I have done is on my Audi UrS6), but they are pretty straightforward. When I popped my 997's off to do the slave, the bell was covered in black grease and the clutch was new (my guess is that whoever had it before suffered some kind of failure and maybe that even lead to him selling it).
Basically you have a few pieces to deal with: Flywheel refinish (I am pretty sure this is always recommended, but other guys can jump in for the 997), Pressure Plate, Friction Disk and Throw-out Bearing, None it is rocket science. Normally the flywheel bolts are torque to yield and must be replaced. The biggest problem I had when doing my Audi was aligning the output shaft of the transmission and sliding it in to the engine. I had to do that with the engine in the car, so it was a little more challenging. With both engine and transmission out of the engine bay, that should be easier.Follow the recommend and tape the clutch fork up so you don't have to disassemble the bell housing if it pops out of position, and watch the needle bearing since it is all just sitting together and can come apart (ask me how I know). I also replaced my transmission output seal and I am pretty sure I read that if you rear main seal is questionable, now would be the time to replace it. Like I said I have not done this on a 911, but a clutch is a clutch.
I think these are the relevant WM's attached. There are a few in this section (that I did not attach) that deal with the slave, so let me know if you need them.
Both the video and the thread are with the engine in the car. Wish I had a BTDT, but I guess I will have to wait 40,000 or more miles before I find out (my clutches on the Audis have lasted 200 - 300 thousand miles - so maybe more?)
Have fun!!!!
Ed
Thanks for the info and PDF's, I would leave the clutch alone but a recent stage 2 tune has it slipping on WOT on over-boost.It was replaced at 60K however the engagement point is a bit high in the pedal travel
If you do the main seal, make sure you watch the second video for the one I posted since their first attempt failed. I can only imagine how much the Porsche tool cost!
If you do the main seal, make sure you watch the second video for the one I posted since their first attempt failed. I can only imagine how much the Porsche tool cost!
Ed
I saw that the RMS was first installed improperly, on the fence if I want to attempt it with so many hoses and o'rings to possibly leak when i reassemble.
It won't take much more than a rolled o'ring to ruin my day or month to start over. Chances are pretty slim as most are on-top under the oil/water manifold.
Yeah, I am normally a "Don't fix it if it ain't broke guy" unless there is overwhelming evidence to do something (like pinning cams, pinning coolant pipes and replacing 13 year old rubber!). Of course I waited until I had a cooling system failure to do it (actually I had planned to do it this past winter, but fate would dictate otherwise.
While I wait on the fancy rubber parts to arrive, I'm going to separate the transmission for the engine.
I have a new clutch and flywheel for another member in PR. I was going to purchase from Kevin but ended up with a great deal on a Sachs 2.5.
The question is do I need the flywheel lock tool for $65.00
PN # 000-721-953-81. Seen guys using zip-ties and a bolt or DIY metal plates.
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Another Leaker!!
