When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Made some progress, though found I missed a couple of items (the 4 medium O rings on the Tandem Pumps) and even though I ordered 7 I only received 1 of the Oil Cooler O rings. So I will get them ordered tomorrow.
Lot's of cooling items as well as the cam covers are back on. I am checking everything 4x in all my various sources (WM's, Pictures, Docs I have scavenged and any notes I have taken) to make sure all is correct as I work through things. The WM's are helpful, but I need a combination of the Engine D&A and the various specific WM PDF's as well as the KAT to ID the parts and where they go and the tech specifics like torque specs and when to use the Porsche grease or sealant. In the photo you can see where things stand. Most of the small rubber hoses are on, as well as the two large pipes that form the crossover to the upper manifold. The starter wiring harness and the heater pipes are back on as well as the Sharwerks elbows. I replaced the Idler Pulley (it was had some very slight movement) as well as the T-stat.
I did some dusting and cleaning of the engine and parts as I put things back together. Nothing too aggressive just enough to get some surface crap off. You might be able to see some blue sealant around the hoses. I started using Hylomar Blue Racing Formula, now called Hylomar M Universal Jointing Compound, on my hose connections since going to a mix of silicone and normal hoses on my Audi UrS6 a while ago. It's just another extra layer of security to prevent any leaks.
I am going to start looking for a hose that will replace the hose end of the turbo coolant line (A long time ago I did something similar to a fuel line where I hacked off the crimped connection and replaced it with a fuel hose piece and a clamp and it worked perfectly). I could have saved a few bucks had I had that thought myself, but I was trying to stay all Porsche for the cooling parts, so it never crossed my mind.
Looking forward to accelerating the progress though I know it will slow down when I move to the transmission (Mount inserts, GT2 hydraulics, Cup Cables, probably new clutch).
Did I mention how I would feel much more comfortable if there were timing marks for the cams?
Looking good Ed, my progress has stalled I only read on this thread on the shortage of turbo water lines... well it appears I am screwed on this as well, because I had to cut one of the lines to get them seperated from the turbo, and they are on backorder with no date for arrival. So I am well and truly screwed at the moment, I dont have the option of redoing just the rubber part, as I need the fitting that goes into the turbo as well. This is a joke from Porsche as these lines must be in demand from the amount of people over here who are having to replace them. not sure what I am going to do at this point!!
Did I mention how I would feel much more comfortable if there were timing marks for the cams?
Ed
So many German cars are like this.
I have bought so many timing tool sets to do a repair on different German car engines its annoying but this is their way of making it harder to not bring it to the dealer.
I had an idea, is the end that goes into the turbo intact at all? If so, perhaps you can connect that with a short piece of hose to the metal and then replace the crimped part with another short piece of hose? I am pretty sure the O rings are available.
Analyst, did you cut both ends of the tube? And this is the part 997 106 075 75?
If so, yes, they have no one to manufacturer it yet and the parts guy said to me it might be months, which really bites.
Perhaps you can find a blown motor or something at a junk yard where you could try and pull the pipe?
Ed
HI Ed
part numbers 99710732970, 99710607376, 99710607575 and 99710607674 are all on backorder.... Not sure what I am going to do bud. If someone on here has them from doing a turbo upgrade please pm me! Ed, I cut one pipe only I think it was the one ending 575 in a place where it could be rejoined if I had to, using a compression coupling. But it is very much welded into the turbo so even IF I could remove both turbos with all pipes attached, and take it somewhere, I dont think they will be able to remove them anyway without ruining the stubs that go into the turbo. I cut that one to enable me to remove the one behind it, which was also well in, so I left it until I had the new lines to fit
I have been thinking of getting them off a motor but the chances of finding a motor that they will allow me to strip down to where it needs to be to get them off, then be able to remove them if there is corrosion, is slim to none I think. I think my best chance lies in contacting someone who has upgraded to Xonas or other turbos that have different lines, and buying their old set if they didnt throw them away!!
Most upsetting, hoping the dealer is going to come through with something, he is asking all the other dealerships if they have them so will know more at the end of the week. I asked him what will his dealership do if they get a 997 turbo in that needs this doing, he said they will have to wait for the parts to come in too... hmm, not so sure on that.
I assume you have been at the connection with all the normal items (PB Blaster, Heat, scraping away whatever surface rust you can get to) and that the problem is internal to the connection (screw is already out)? You might (probably will) cook the O rings, but I am pretty sure they are available.
Mine were a little sticky but by rocking slightly I was able to create some space between the collar and the turbo, slip in a small flat head screw driver and rock the pipe against the screwdriver, levering it up, replacing the thin flat head with a thicker one to get it all the way out. The rocking was combined with a little turning when I could. The problem there is that little collar flange will bend under too much pressure, but you probably can bend it back in alignment after.
I did order and receive part 99710607674. I can check with my dealer to see if he still sees them available, but I know the 75 one is a problem.
part numbers 99710732970, 99710607376, 99710607575 and 99710607674 are all on backorder.... Not sure what I am going to do bud. If someone on here has them from doing a turbo upgrade please pm me! Ed, I cut one pipe only I think it was the one ending 575 in a place where it could be rejoined if I had to, using a compression coupling. But it is very much welded into the turbo so even IF I could remove both turbos with all pipes attached, and take it somewhere, I dont think they will be able to remove them anyway without ruining the stubs that go into the turbo. I cut that one to enable me to remove the one behind it, which was also well in, so I left it until I had the new lines to fit
I have been thinking of getting them off a motor but the chances of finding a motor that they will allow me to strip down to where it needs to be to get them off, then be able to remove them if there is corrosion, is slim to none I think. I think my best chance lies in contacting someone who has upgraded to Xonas or other turbos that have different lines, and buying their old set if they didnt throw them away!!
Most upsetting, hoping the dealer is going to come through with something, he is asking all the other dealerships if they have them so will know more at the end of the week. I asked him what will his dealership do if they get a 997 turbo in that needs this doing, he said they will have to wait for the parts to come in too... hmm, not so sure on that.
Check your pm I have those pipes and you can have them
I assume you have been at the connection with all the normal items (PB Blaster, Heat, scraping away whatever surface rust you can get to) and that the problem is internal to the connection (screw is already out)? You might (probably will) cook the O rings, but I am pretty sure they are available.
Mine were a little sticky but by rocking slightly I was able to create some space between the collar and the turbo, slip in a small flat head screw driver and rock the pipe against the screwdriver, levering it up, replacing the thin flat head with a thicker one to get it all the way out. The rocking was combined with a little turning when I could. The problem there is that little collar flange will bend under too much pressure, but you probably can bend it back in alignment after.
I did order and receive part 99710607674. I can check with my dealer to see if he still sees them available, but I know the 75 one is a problem.
Ed
HI Ed
thanks, yeah I have been at them with everything, pb blaster, heat, cleaning, the problem is inside, the corrosion seems to have them tightly gripped. The orings will be fried but yes, can get new ones of those easily.
Hopefully silverturbo is digging me out with a kind rescue offer! Waiting to see what the OPC says later this week, but the line I cut was luckily 997 106 074 74 ! and that does seem to be available online. But thats not to say I will get the other one out. In worst case scnario I was thinking to remove the turbos with the lines in, and borrow an oxy setup to put more heat into the turbo, the issue is that the tabs bend so easily I cant really get any purchase to get them out!
I have tried slide hammers, heat , leverage, wobbling . No chance lol
Last edited by theanalyst; 07-23-2019 at 03:10 PM.
I think I may have followed some bad information about coils.
The Bosch coils are completely different than the Beru ones on the car:
They are much thicker at the screw connections, and I remember the discussions about swapping coils while the engine is still in the car and the clearance needed on the one coil.
I think I may have followed some bad information about coils.
The Bosch coils are completely different than the Beru ones on the car:
They are much thicker at the screw connections, and I remember the discussions about swapping coils while the engine is still in the car and the clearance needed on the one coil.
Has anyone ever used these?
Do I need to source a different set?
Ed
Ed, I spoke to OPC parts about coils today, there is a slimmer coil for Coil 1 I believe, the newer uprated BERU coils are thicker than the originals and I think come with longer screws. So if yours fit you may need to either modify one for plug one, or get a slimline Beru for that one, and use longer screws for the others. Why they are still supplying an inferior coil for plug one is beyond me, if they needed uprating due to poor long term performance (which they did it seems), it seems that only 5 out of the 6 get the upgrade!