Kevin

Every coolant fitting is suspect. If you drill and tap and screw in a fastener>that just keeps the fitting from rotating and blowing out. From years of seeing the same design on the 996GT3 and 996Turbo the glue bond can fail down the road and seep coolant. Heat the glue up and remove the fittings. Clean, emory cloth and re epoxy. se JB Weld Original formula>>do not get the quick set or Marine. Let the bond/joint cure for at least 12 to 14 hours before drilling/tapping/screwing in the fastener.

Rob32Ford

Kevin - what are your thoughts on what appears to be a reluctance to weld the pipes in. Is there an issue over time with the welds? Is there something about the joint and/or the materials that makes this difficult? I still can't wrap my head around glued in fittings.

Thanks!

lliejk

Got it Kevin. Did you look at the first picture? Is that what you meant by locking in the pins?

Ed

saabin

Agree, If/when I have to deal with this, I was thinking of sending out the whole part and getting them welded in, a la bbi or someone similar.

Kevin

The extruded coolant fitting ages over time. You risk a stress crack at the weld line due to the aluminum stress fatigue. Now if you take and CNC T6061 and make new fittings or purchase aftermarket fittings and clean, clean clean the existing casting>>a good welder can weld the new aluminum fitting into the castings. The next step is where 90% of the shop cheat. They don't pressure test there work. Visual inspection and hand the pieces to the shop tech for install. Every year I get PPI calls for recommendations on cars that have coolant seeping around welded (now cracked or thru a pinhole from a contaminated weld) or a pinned stock fitting that wasn't removed and re-epoxied. Welding is NOT 100%.. There risk rises if you do not pressure test and weld new CNC'd fittings. If you weld the STOCK extruded with uneven (thickness) which vary from 0.058" to 0.065" thickness "your" risk goes up due to stress fractures. Who wants to go back in and redo the job when you can glue and pin or weld with new fitting and pressure test!

Kevin

Ed, yes you have staked the pin. It will keep the pin from moving around.

lliejk

Cool. Another skill added.

Ed

Torque-less

Going to be dropping my motor this winter. Hoping to get some similar things accomplished

o7silverturbo

Not even sure why someone would try and weld the old fittings.

BBI makes a set for like 200 bucks.

Welding vs glue/pinning will be discussed until the end of time. What is right? Who knows both work. I like welding over pinning but that is just me.

Find a shop that knows the cars and if they are going to weld make sure they know what they are doing

theanalyst

Great job! Enjoyed reading this thread, excellent work.
I am doing similar works on mine at the moment, except I am also having to replace the turbos due to corrosion ;( (UK weather). What if anything do Porsche state should be used when fitting the new orings in the engine?
Both coolant ones and oil system ones. I would usually lube the oil system ones lightly with a bit of engine oil, I guess its the same for the coolant ones?

Anyone got any good info on this. Kevin? I read on an oring makers site that using any type of grease is bad as it will absorb into the oring when the engine is hot and shorten the life of it a lot.
thanks

lliejk

Getting there. Had to wait on Porsche to get the right sealant for the cam covers (part superseded and then restricted to 918's then another part....) Getting it today. Had to use a map torch to get the fittings out, epoxied them and they just finished the 24 hour cure so I will be pinning them tonight or tomorrow.

For the o-rings Porsche says to use a specific grease for the o rings. The part 000.043.204.68 is the one for the o ring grease.

For your turbo's, I have never heard of them rusting. I have heard of the actuators having trouble and either un-seizing them and replacing the arms or just replacing the arms or cleaning them up solve the issue. Are you sure you need to replace them?

Ed

theanalyst

Thanks Ed, I believe we have talked on a different thread! where you posted some very helpful pics of your build.
Got that regards the oring grease, thanks a lot.

Where do you live? Corrosion may not be common place in hotter climates but in the UK, where the weather is generally terrible, it is a common issue on 996tt, and more and more on 997tt as well.
My turbo was blowing from between the compressor housing and the turbo centre bit. The corrosion has thinned the metal to the point where the exhaust gas found the weak spot. Now, I could have got them refurbished but bought new. Also, the turbo lines are stuck in the turbos so badly that I am having to replace them... all. So thats all new turbo lines because the old ones are stuck in there so tight.
Here is a few pics.. ! So while I replaced all the turbo lines I decided to go to town on everything and go the while hog so to speak. Cannot wait to get it back together!!

theanalyst

What special glue sealer for what housing assembly to the engine block?! I am at a similar stage, just have the oil coolers left to remove and the elbows below, can someone elaborate on this? THANKS

o7silverturbo

The part where the oil coolers sit and the shark werk elbows bolt into.

That part bolts to the top of the block but using RTV to seal it where the cases meet. I had mine leak the first time I had it off(my fault). I used the approved RTV both times just messed it up the first time.

o7silverturbo

I just use rubber safe silicone spray when install o rings. You dont want to use oil as it can make the o rings if they are not meant to have oil on them. It can make them swell over time and leak