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Thx Guy's. Agree no harm at this point in disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. If the starter were hung I'd expected to at least see a voltage drawdown, but there was none. I'm away on biz travel now but intend to put everyone's suggestions into play when I return at months end.
Hi Fellow Enthusiasts. Hopefully someone understands the path to firing this ol' gal up again - I can't get the car started.
'07 TT tip, 45,900 miles.
History: Car was on the lift for a few days while I swapped out the exhaust system. I also installed four new O2 sensors, both engine and cabin air filters and the battery.
I'd inherited the car with a battery installed Jan 2010 (many years of free service) and it was working fine except that I noticed it was not fully accepting a charge on the trickle charger, so I swapped out the battery for a new one. Battery polarity is correct. I have a little history with P-cars and battery swap nightmares so I did tried to rush the swap power on to power restored in ~10 seconds. Herein I suspect, lies the problem; the battery swap and power interruption. There were no error codes prior to starting the work.
After spending ~4 hours searching blogs, I don't seem to be any further ahead.
OK, after blogging, I realize it would have been prudent to maintain power to the cables via a trickle charger while I performed the swap - at least, in the past, this is what others have suggested.
Current State:
Error messages are PSM, PASM and ABS failure. I notice the brake pedal is firm - no play. I can hear the fuel pump activate for about a second when turning the key on. When trying to start, nothing happens - no clicking, no sound of any type. Battery has a full charge. I voltage tested the new battery for voltage drawdown when attempting to start the engine and there is no discernable draw.
For the PSM and PASM codes I've read dozens of blogs that suggest simply starting the car and driving it for a few miles will eliminate the codes. However, the starter won't engage so this option is a, "non starter." I suppose it could be coincidental that the brake pedal sensor/starter switch failed?
I've likely left out some technical tidbits necessary to answer all questions, but if you have a thought or two that will help me along, it would be most appreciated. Thank-you.
Do you have to step on the brake to start the car?
My 06 C2 had a switch on the clutch pedal that was a source of failure for many people so maybe there is a similar switch on your brake switch?. step on the brake a few times to exercise the switch and try that a few times. If thats the problem this switch is cheap and a DIY fix.
Bill
Thx Bill. Yes I have to step on the brake or the starter to engage even though its a tip trans and in park. Oddly enough, I don't have to depress the brake on my manual trans 997 4S. Weird but true.
Have you tried disconnecting the battery and leaving it disconnected for say 10 mins?
SOLVED! Back at the AZ house...Murph, you nailed it. Seems when disconnecting the battery for less than 100 seconds, which I did on two occasions, the brief loss of power just freezes the DME. I used my new Foxwell diagnostic tool and promptly deleted the codes, but they simply returned. The exercise was moot anyway, because the car still would not turn over, or start. Time to "reboot."
I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and ~15 seconds. After restoring power the same error messages displayed (PSM, ABS, PASM) but when I turned the key it fired right up. Lesson learned: No point in rushing to change your battery. Or maintain power to the car when doing so (cig lighter tool etc).
I sincerely appreciate everyone's input!!!
Yeah, sometimes a computer just needs to be power cycled. Some residual power, unless completely drained, can cause this. Sometimes I unplug a device that’s giving me trouble and then try to power it back on without connecting the power source. This sometimes shorts the circuit and drains any leftover charge.
07-17-2018, 01:49 PM
