911.Forever

Hi Fellow Enthusiasts. Hopefully someone understands the path to firing this ol' gal up again - I can't get the car started.
'07 TT tip, 45,900 miles.
History: Car was on the lift for a few days while I swapped out the exhaust system. I also installed four new O2 sensors, both engine and cabin air filters and the battery.
I'd inherited the car with a battery installed Jan 2010 (many years of free service) and it was working fine except that I noticed it was not fully accepting a charge on the trickle charger, so I swapped out the battery for a new one. Battery polarity is correct. I have a little history with P-cars and battery swap nightmares so I did tried to rush the swap power on to power restored in ~10 seconds. Herein I suspect, lies the problem; the battery swap and power interruption. There were no error codes prior to starting the work.
After spending ~4 hours searching blogs, I don't seem to be any further ahead.
OK, after blogging, I realize it would have been prudent to maintain power to the cables via a trickle charger while I performed the swap - at least, in the past, this is what others have suggested.
Current State:
Error messages are PSM, PASM and ABS failure. I notice the brake pedal is firm - no play. I can hear the fuel pump activate for about a second when turning the key on. When trying to start, nothing happens - no clicking, no sound of any type. Battery has a full charge. I voltage tested the new battery for voltage drawdown when attempting to start the engine and there is no discernable draw.
For the PSM and PASM codes I've read dozens of blogs that suggest simply starting the car and driving it for a few miles will eliminate the codes. However, the starter won't engage so this option is a, "non starter." I suppose it could be coincidental that the brake pedal sensor/starter switch failed?
I've likely left out some technical tidbits necessary to answer all questions, but if you have a thought or two that will help me along, it would be most appreciated. Thank-you.

lliejk

From a British Forum on Cayman's:


Effect of disconnection or total discharge of battery on electrical systems in the vehicle and the precautions to be taken. (MY2005-on)

Control unit memories
Values and faults stored in the control units can be deleted if the battery is disconnected or completely discharged.

• If possible, all fault memories should be checked and, if necessary, printed out before the battery is disconnected.
  
  Supply voltage fault entry
  The entry "supply voltage" may be stored in various control units if the battery has been completely discharged.
• Delete the "supply voltage" entry from the control units in question.
  
  Ready status
  In some countries (presently the U.S.A. and Canada), after disconnecting the battery, it is necessary to reach the Ready status by a test drive and/or by using the Porsche System Tester DME control module menu). If in doubt about this, contact the relevant importer.
  
  DME control module
  With all DME systems, the engine must run for several minutes before the engine control module can relearn the idle speed and mixture adaptation values!
  After disconnection of the power supply, the idle speed might change or fluctuate briefly until the throttle valve adjusting unit has been readapted.
  The mixture adaptation is also lost.
  
  After the battery is connected:
  With the DME, it is necessary to carry out a learning and adaptation routine as described below:
• Switch ignition on for 30 seconds without starting the engine.
• Do not actuate accelerator pedal.
  This completes the adaptation of the throttle valve adjusting unit.
  
  Tyre pressure monitoring system
  When the battery is disconnected and connected, the tyre pressure is first displayed as "- - - ".
• Once the battery has been disconnected and work is complete, the vehicle must be driven for a short distance.
  The actual pressures will then be displayed again.
  
  Steering angle sensor (PSM)
  The steering angle sensor must be re-initialised when the battery is disconnected and connected.
• Turn wheels to straight-ahead position.
• Switch ignition off and then on again twice.
• Start engine.
• From the straight-ahead position, turn steering wheel approx. 20 ° to the right, past the straight-ahead position.
• Drive the vehicle straight ahead for at least one second at a speed above 4 km/h (2.5 mph).
  The steering angle sensor segment is recognised again in this process.
  Once the sensor has been successfully initialised, the fault code that is stored in the fault memory is documented using the fault deletion counter.
  The fault memory erases itself automatically.
  The PSM indicator light in the instrument cluster goes out.
  
  Power windows
  The end positions of the power windows are deleted from the control unit when the battery is disconnected and connected.
  Perform the following procedure for all power windows:
• Actuate rocker switch and fully close window once.
• Actuate rocker switch once more to close.
  The upper end position of the window is stored.
• Actuate rocker switch and fully open window once.
• Actuate rocker switch once more to open.
  The lower end position of the window is stored.
  
  Instrument cluster
  Clock
  The time is deleted when the power supply is disconnected.
• Press clock control button approx. 1 second on instrument cluster. Hour display flashes.
• Press clock control button in the corresponding direction. Hours can be adjusted.
• Press the clock control button again, the minute display flashes and can be adjusted by turning the clock control button.
  Trip odometer
• The trip counter is set to 0 when the power supply is disconnected.
  
  Airbag control module
  If the battery is disconnected for less than 100 seconds when the ignition is switched on, a CAN time fault, which makes diagnosis of the airbag control unit impossible, may be stored in the airbag control unit.
• The fault is erased by removing the ignition key.
  
  On-board computer
  Disconnection of the vehicle battery deletes the memories for average speed and average consumption. As a result, the displayed range on remaining fuel can be markedly different or even 0. The outside temperature display loses its memory effect. In other words, the indicated outside temperature can be too high due to the heat radiated when the vehicle is hot.
  
  PCM
  When the power supply is disconnected, the built-in GPS receiver loses the so-called almanac containing the satellite orbital paths.
• Switch on PCM when there is a free panoramic view (load GPS almanac); the almanac is reloaded as soon as four satellites have been identifed.
  The date and time are deleted when the battery is disconnected. The summer-/wintertime recognition feature is maintained. The time is lost and is updated again when there is a plausible GPS reception (four satellites).
• The date and time are also adopted once the GPS almanac has been loaded; it may be necessary to change over to summer time (daylight-saving time). This time is transferred to the instrument cluster. If the time is then manually changed by means of the instrument cluster, this time is adopted by the PCM and synchronised with GPS time.
  If the telephone card had been inserted and the telephone was ready for operation, the telephone is subsequently disabled (only if "Use last PIN" is deactivated).
• The telephone is enabled again when the telephone PIN code is entered with the SIM telephone card inserted.
  
  Test drive after disconnecting battery
  Depending on the vehicle equipment fitted, all these work steps are carried out during the test drive.
  Read out the fault memories of all control units after the test drive.
• If there is a fault present, check to see if the fault was caused by an undervoltage.
• If faults were caused by an undervoltage (or CAN timeout error), erase the fault memory, perform another test drive and read out the fault memory.
• If faults were not caused by an undervoltage, correct the faults in accordance with GFF (Guided Fault Finding).
  
  
  Ed

911.Forever

Thx Ed - I found this string as well. Lots of data therein. I suppose I need to purchase a Durametric or other diagnostic tool to even move forward, correct? Particularly if there are 'supply voltage' codes in memory?

911.Forever

Just for giggles and mainly because the starter will not turn over I bought a replacement battery. Same result - starter will not engage. I've checked all related fuses, mainly in row B and C and all are good.
After calling my very old pal and Indy shop owner, Don Wise at Don's Autowerks in Campbell, CA he said the car should indeed start, hence, the replacement battery test (Don is in CA, the car is in AZ). Fault codes of course are a PIWIS issue. Although inclined to believe the problem is connected to battery removal, who knows what unrelated issue occurred incidentally. When turning the key to start, there is 0% draw on the battery which perhaps means, a relay, or ignition switch? The 996's had problems with ignition switch failure but this does not seem to be an issue with 997's. Also the key itself correctly communicates with the car, re: lock/unlock.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks. h

MIKe30

Mike Murphy

911.Forever

Thx for your feedback. Yes, I'll try the recalibration list once I can fire the engine. The new battery is fine - all functions are operating; lights, locks, windows, radio etc. Assume your car fired up after the battery swap then you recalibrated? Or was your starter disabled as well, so you recalibrated the windows, steering and then the car fired up? Seems this car unloaded more of a rare circumstance in that there is possibly an error code blocking starting. Perhaps the brake pedal switch which (not sure what the technical name is) which in turn allows the starter to engage. I recently bought the turbo and learned it had only one key so I'm in the process of acquiring a second one. Good thought though :-)

911.Forever

Thanks for the suggestion. I have not tried the long term disconnect option, albeit, at this point not sure it can hurt. I'm going to pick up a diagnostic box for 997, 991. It's one of those tools I've always wanted anyway and I'll be able to review error codes. h

dave292

Please keep us posted when you find the problem.
Thank you.

911.Forever

Definitely...I can't imagine I'm the only one, ever, with this bad luck. Battery swapping is a relatively common maintenance item, especially in the desert where summer heat obliterates batteries.
The fact the starter won't turn over is really perplexing...
I've ordered a diagnostic test box and will give this whole thing a peek from another angle. With a little luck, simply clearing an error code that is blocking the starter might work. If it works, the cost of the box is far less expensive than a flat deck ride to my indy shop and the labor involved to fire the ol' gal back up. And, a new tool in drawer as well.

Mike Murphy

911.Forever

Excellent point Murph...already quadruple checked including adjacent wiring connections I could have bumped, fuses, relays. I tried wiggling the ignition key, fiddling with the shifter and even bumped in and out of reverse, neutral and drive including manual. Great thought however...waiting on delivery of a diagnostic tester which I'm hoping will be revealing.

atcbi5

function12

First there is no need to worry how long the battery is disconnected.
I would try as other have said, disconnect the battery for 10 plus minutes to clear it's self.
Leave the frunk open. Lock and unlock the car a couple of times. The horn should beep because the frunk it open.
Make sure the car is in Park.
Make sure you press the brake pedal in hard.
Then try to start the car.

o7silverturbo

As you stated all those lights will go out once you drive.

if you can jack up the car and give the starter a smack with a long pry bar and hammer, see if it starts. could have a dead spot