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stuck wheels on center lock hub

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Old 03-31-2018, 04:55 PM
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cyclrder
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Default stuck wheels on center lock hub

I have changed my RS Spyder wheels to the RS2RS wheels and am having issues pulling the wheels off of the hub. I have red wheel adapters.
Are their different wheel adapters for different wheels?
The center locks come off with no problems... The Spyder wheels had not been lubricated on the back face of the rim or front of hub so I didn't either.. the wheels have been on for 2 days.. so I can't imagine any corrosion.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
2010 997.2 turbo
Old 03-31-2018, 04:58 PM
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atcbi5
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Tap it with your foot but use the dismounting tool.
Old 03-31-2018, 05:20 PM
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cyclrder
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The guys at the shop were hitting the back side with a heavy mallet on the lift.....
Old 03-31-2018, 05:54 PM
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TBarrow
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They did not loosen it while on the ground did they? I have had to tap it with my foot but nothing like you are going through. I only use the silver grease on the threads to the centerlock and the tapered area only as specified.
Old 03-31-2018, 06:01 PM
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cyclrder
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Originally Posted by TBarrow
They did not loosen it while on the ground did they? I have had to tap it with my foot but nothing like you are going through. I only use the silver grease on the threads to the centerlock and the tapered area only as specified.
You can loosen it while on the ground... but you must tighten up on the jack.

The whole reason that I took it back in to check the balance.. I was hearing a ticking noise on the rt rear.. (a sign that lubrication wasn't spread evenly--and that I had probably bent the brake shield while removing the wheel...(I have one of those spindle extensions to save the PCCBs).. I also hadn't tightened the wheels hard enough (clearly wasn't following directions of the torque wrench) ... anyway, all of this was rather amateur on my part.. but none of this would cause the wheels to be stuck on the hubs...
Old 03-31-2018, 08:00 PM
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My instructors say both removal and install must be off ground. That is why these wheels get a bad rap. That is why most CL wheels and rotors have issues. Once you remove the CL from a wheel on the ground, you have just damaged it. Clearly states do not do that. But you can do whatever you want to do.

Last edited by atcbi5; 04-01-2018 at 05:44 AM.
Old 04-01-2018, 08:29 AM
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Just to be clear on what I did.... when I took my spider wheels off:
I had a helper apply brakes and loosened the nut by a 1/4- 1/2 a turn to just to break the initial bite of the torqued nut..then raised the car to remove the nut and wheel with my quick jack.

install was reverse with 380ibs or whatever the manual said to torque at (which is clearly light as it looks like 444lbs is the correct amount) of the torque applied while the car was in the air. So I haven’t ruined my wheels....I then drove the car 150 miles and as I mentioned.... was unhappy with the balance and had the ticking noise on the right rear wheel (indigitive of not enough grease probably caused by the fact that when I received the brand new black wheel nuts a number of months ago I had pulled one out to look at and I’m sure sitting around the work bench it had grease rub off..)

sooo back to the original issue....of 3 of the GTRS rims are stuck to the hubs... this is a 12k car that is pretty much pristine.... my wheel adapters (red) we’re in perfect condition, the wheels had no powder coat over spray (that I could tell), and I didn’t seem to have any corrosion on the hubs..


I
Old 04-01-2018, 08:43 AM
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atcbi5
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Apologies, I just kind of do things by the book. I have to this date, never loosened anything while weight on wheels. Buy the removal tool that screws in the the hub. Then try to hit the tire with your foot. That’s should remove it. I hope your new wheels aren’t damaged. Good luck.
Old 04-01-2018, 11:05 AM
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dave292
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+1 on buying the tool that screws into the hub so that you do not damage the brake discs when removing the wheel.
Old 04-03-2018, 09:10 AM
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tinkerbill
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Originally Posted by cyclrder
I have changed my RS Spyder wheels to the RS2RS wheels and am having issues pulling the wheels off of the hub. I have red wheel adapters.
Are their different wheel adapters for different wheels?
The center locks come off with no problems... The Spyder wheels had not been lubricated on the back face of the rim or front of hub so I didn't either.. the wheels have been on for 2 days.. so I can't imagine any corrosion.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
2010 997.2 turbo
Do a google on 997 341 901 00 and you should see a diagram of the brake disk and the driving pins that engage the back of the center lock wheels. The driving pins shown in the illustration engage the backside of the center lock wheel to provide the mechanical connection to the wheel. If these pins are a tiny bit too big in diameter for the wheel it could be very difficult to remove the wheel. If these aren't factory wheels and hub parts that could be the problem?
Old 04-15-2018, 09:26 PM
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The powder coater had done the inside of the wheel hub ...... idiot.
Old 04-16-2018, 06:31 PM
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Thank god! It could have been worse. How do you fix it?
Old 04-16-2018, 06:42 PM
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I used “airplane paint remover” and it worked quite well... a plastic scraper and a brass wire toothbrush. Took about 30 minutes per wheel rotating and hitting from the back with a dead weight plastic hammer to remove from the car... luckily no damage to the wheels.

a total pain in the butt. I really should have paid attention before I installed them.
Old 04-16-2018, 07:23 PM
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Make sure you don't sand that area. It needs to be untouched and without any scratches.
Old 04-16-2018, 11:54 PM
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Funny..... the powder coat guy suggested sand paper..... ummm..I had already learned about this brain surgeons way of doing things....no.


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