Clutch "popping" feel and ticking noise
#1
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Thread Starter
Clutch "popping" feel and ticking noise
I've been having what seems to be an intermittent issue with the clutch that has a "pop" feel when it is depressed. It subtle when the car is cold and get more noticeable when war. Can only feel it when at a stand still or the car is off. Hear a ticking sound in the rear when the door is open. Clutch engagement seems fine. Searched, but could not really find a definitive answer. Car has 18k miles on it so I didn't think it would be the clutch going south. Dealer said it could be the pressure plate, but I'm not so sure it's that. Any insight would be appreciated.
#2
I would jack up the car and find out the source of the noise. Start on the passenger side (starter area).
If the noise is on start up (ticking or scraping) it will sound like it's coming in near the starter area (front engine-right side).
The beginning symptoms will sound like a failing starter or pinion/ring gear issue.
A bad pressure plate can have 1 or more 'locating metal' brackets break and it will scrape on the clutch bell housing. Even when these fail the clutch will seem to work fine. The noise will eventually get worse.
You can easily remove the plastic transmission side vent tube located right below the starter (starter cable is attached to it) to inspect things (passenger side).
If the noise is on start up (ticking or scraping) it will sound like it's coming in near the starter area (front engine-right side).
The beginning symptoms will sound like a failing starter or pinion/ring gear issue.
A bad pressure plate can have 1 or more 'locating metal' brackets break and it will scrape on the clutch bell housing. Even when these fail the clutch will seem to work fine. The noise will eventually get worse.
You can easily remove the plastic transmission side vent tube located right below the starter (starter cable is attached to it) to inspect things (passenger side).
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. Would a bad pressure plate have the symptoms even when the car isn't running and depressing the clutch? I plan on jacking up the car to check things out as you recommend.
#4
There are 3 of those 'plate locating metal' bars around the pressure plate, evenly space at 120 degrees apart. You'll have to rotate the engine to see all 3 through the inspection hole. If you find aluminum dust or bits when you take off the cover - well that a guaranteed sign.
It seems like the rivets can brake making them go lose (miles don't matter). If one breaks it seems to cause the pressure plate to work unevenly. In the example picture the uneven forces caused a premature failure on the release bearing (slight bent in the bearing itself).
If the noise is coming from the back of the engine-right side near the exhaust, that could be a CAM bolt back out issues.. yours sound clutch related.
#6
Based on that sound something is definitely loose, binding or hitting in the clutch area (assuming that's where the noise is) There is just a hydraulic line going into the slave cylinder on on top of the transmission.
You may have broken one of the arms on the clutch release fork. There's no really good way to check that out - if you have small hands, you can feel the fork through starter hole, after removing the starter.
Either way it's a noise that shouldn't be there at all.
You may have broken one of the arms on the clutch release fork. There's no really good way to check that out - if you have small hands, you can feel the fork through starter hole, after removing the starter.
Either way it's a noise that shouldn't be there at all.
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#8
Does the clutch pedal feel normal? Or do you feel something when you engage it?
It's rare - but i'd also check the two Slave Cylinder bolts that attach it to the transmission. If they become loose you would be moving the slave cylinder around. It's kinda of hard to reach.. but they would be on the driver side on top of the tranny. You can only feel them with your hands...
It's rare - but i'd also check the two Slave Cylinder bolts that attach it to the transmission. If they become loose you would be moving the slave cylinder around. It's kinda of hard to reach.. but they would be on the driver side on top of the tranny. You can only feel them with your hands...
#9
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Thread Starter
The noise sounds like it is definitely coming from above the transmission and it's not back at the clutch and plate itself. I pulled both most rear covers and had someone depress the clutch while I was under there. The dealer was setting me up for needing to replace the clutch. Still have CPO warranty for another month so hopefully if it's the slave it will be covered.
#10
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Thread Starter
I couldn't feel the slave cylinder because I did not know where it was. The clutch just has three kind of pop feel or skips to it about 2/3 of the way down. Here is the video from underneath.
Last edited by MJFDDS; 08-27-2016 at 12:21 AM. Reason: link
#12
Based on the latest video.
I would check the slave cylinder next - literally put your hand on it and have someone depress the clutch.
Its on the driver side of the tranny and you have you wiggly you hand pass the coolant hoses (not easy) or detach the single coolant hose bracket bolt (13mm wrench) that's on top of the tranny (easy)
You won't be able to visually see the slave cylinder unless you have a stick-mirror, but's it's the only thing on top (essentially above where the clutch is).
Just guessing based on the noise it's either the slave cylinder (rare) or the clutch fork worn out/broken (slightly more common). The slave cylinder will be a lot less labor to fix. The tranny needs to come out for the fork, etc.
I would check the slave cylinder next - literally put your hand on it and have someone depress the clutch.
Its on the driver side of the tranny and you have you wiggly you hand pass the coolant hoses (not easy) or detach the single coolant hose bracket bolt (13mm wrench) that's on top of the tranny (easy)
You won't be able to visually see the slave cylinder unless you have a stick-mirror, but's it's the only thing on top (essentially above where the clutch is).
Just guessing based on the noise it's either the slave cylinder (rare) or the clutch fork worn out/broken (slightly more common). The slave cylinder will be a lot less labor to fix. The tranny needs to come out for the fork, etc.
#13
Let us know what you find. I have a '10 with 44k miles, and it sounds like mine is doing a similar thing. The clutch is nice and smooth until you've driven it for a while and everything has been up to temperature. After that, the pedal hits resistance for the last few inches of travel, where it becomes very stiff and notchy in feel.
I've tried bleeding the slave cylinder with no success. I've removed the vent and checked the pressure plate, and all looked fine. My slave cylinder has some squeakiness to it when you're listening to it underneath the car. The first owner of my car had the slave and clutch assembly replaced under warranty at around 20k miles when the slave failed, and oiled the flywheel damaging the clutch.
My best guess at this point is a pressure plate issue. I can't see how the fork could be affected by the heat. The slave could be, but I've bled it twice with no change in symptoms???????
I've tried bleeding the slave cylinder with no success. I've removed the vent and checked the pressure plate, and all looked fine. My slave cylinder has some squeakiness to it when you're listening to it underneath the car. The first owner of my car had the slave and clutch assembly replaced under warranty at around 20k miles when the slave failed, and oiled the flywheel damaging the clutch.
My best guess at this point is a pressure plate issue. I can't see how the fork could be affected by the heat. The slave could be, but I've bled it twice with no change in symptoms???????
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The car is still at the dealer (been a week). The SA told me it was indeed the clutch fork mechanism. I have 3 weeks left on CPO so it is being covered by Porsche. When I get the car back and look at the paperwork I can tell you exactly what was replaced.
If the noise is coming directly above the trans then it most likely is the same issue or the slave cylinder.
If the noise is coming directly above the trans then it most likely is the same issue or the slave cylinder.
Let us know what you find. I have a '10 with 44k miles, and it sounds like mine is doing a similar thing. The clutch is nice and smooth until you've driven it for a while and everything has been up to temperature. After that, the pedal hits resistance for the last few inches of travel, where it becomes very stiff and notchy in feel.
I've tried bleeding the slave cylinder with no success. I've removed the vent and checked the pressure plate, and all looked fine. My slave cylinder has some squeakiness to it when you're listening to it underneath the car. The first owner of my car had the slave and clutch assembly replaced under warranty at around 20k miles when the slave failed, and oiled the flywheel damaging the clutch.
My best guess at this point is a pressure plate issue. I can't see how the fork could be affected by the heat. The slave could be, but I've bled it twice with no change in symptoms???????
I've tried bleeding the slave cylinder with no success. I've removed the vent and checked the pressure plate, and all looked fine. My slave cylinder has some squeakiness to it when you're listening to it underneath the car. The first owner of my car had the slave and clutch assembly replaced under warranty at around 20k miles when the slave failed, and oiled the flywheel damaging the clutch.
My best guess at this point is a pressure plate issue. I can't see how the fork could be affected by the heat. The slave could be, but I've bled it twice with no change in symptoms???????